Gerg_R31

I work in a machine shop and I've done alot of measurements with my rb30/26; using JE +0.040" (+1mm) pistons (rb26 10cc domed piston with rb30 piston pin offset) the piston still sat 0.030" (0.76mm) down the bore you will most likely still need to grind both the block and the deck to get a reasonable compression ratio Below is the formula (the numbers used are my measurements as an example) Bore x Stroke bore x bore ÷ 4 = 87 x 87 ÷ 4 = 1892.25 Answer x stroke x π (pie) = 1892.25 x 85 x 3.142 = 505363.2075 answer ÷ 1000 = 505363.2075 ÷ 1000 = 505.363208 = SV answer x number of cylinders = cc cc ÷ 1000 = litre Head Gasket Same formula as above though this part is quite often left out gasket bore squared ÷ 4 87.3 x 87.3 ÷ 4 =1905.3225 answer x gasket thickness x π (pie) ÷ 1000 1905.3225 x 1.4 x 3.142 = 8381.132613 8381.132613 ÷ 1000 = 8.381133 [ + ] Head Chamber CC Using a burette cc the head, when I ground my rb26 head I ground off 0.010" which took out 1cc, and same when I took another 0.010". But after grinding another 0.040" It had taken another 6.4cc's out. in total I ground 0.080" off the head and it took out 12cc's Piston Dome/Dish /dome with valve releifs They can vary a lot, most piston manufacturers will say what cc they have mine say 10cc (Dome [ - ]) (Dish [ + ]) Deck height This is the measurement from the deck to the top of the piston (not top on the dome) when the piston is at TDC If the piston is below the deck (0.3mm is an example as mine is 0) bore x bore ÷ 4 = 87 x 87 ÷ 4 = 1892.25 = x deck to piston x pie ÷ 1000 1892.25 x 0.3 x 3.142 =1783.63485 1783.63485 ÷ 1000 = 1.783635 [ + ] 0 Deck height is 0 Piston above the deck (0.017"/0.43mm for this set up) top measurement of the piston squared ÷ 4 86 x 86 ÷ 4 = 1849 = x piston to deck x pie ÷ 1000 1849 x 0.4 x 3.142 = 2498.10994 2498.10994 ÷ 1000 = 2.49811 [ - ] Adding it all together Head CC + Gasket volume then the following options + Piston Dish + Piston below deck - Piston Dome - Piston above deck for me Head cc + Gasket - Piston Dome - Piston above deck = CV 54.4 + 8.381133 - 10 0 = 52.781133 CV + SV = 52.781133 + 505.363208 = 558.144341 Answer ÷ CV = Compression ratio 558.144341 ÷ 52.781133 = 10.574694 = 10.57:1

will get some soon as im getting a rb30de timing cover set made up in carbon fibre if anyone is interested in a set p.m me (there will be a mold hopefully soon so they can make a few copies, and im not sure on price)

any ideas or pictures?

stop hooning? you put fuel in and it goes straight to full... no shit comes down rather quickly? stupid post = stupid reply how to fix it (meaning the question and discription) fuel guages have 1/4 marks not dollar signs heres an idea, fill it up and when it reaches 3/4 full write down the odometer, then again at half, then 1/4 write down your findings and then post, other wise you'll get another stupid reply

uploaded a picture

I dummy assembled the head block crank cams etc at work, i put a bit of bearing blue on the end of the stud (10mm by 1.5 thread pitch if anyone is looking for the tap / heli-coil set) and yeah it matched what the rb30de guide says. so I heli-coiled it the gates t306 is the 150 teeth is what i got from just jap but then i got the gates t291 152 teeth from repco for like $30 (Audi A4 1997-2000 1.8lt 4 cylinder turbo) also came across this last weekend during my search

i know sweet f/a about catch cans, done a search and alot ends up in talking about other stuff or two people pissing and moaning my questions i got a rb30de im about to put in (rb26 head, 10.8-242/252 @ 0.050" cams, oil drain, 10.5:1 blah blah blah etc) intentions bit of circut racing here and there anyways are catch cans needed for track? do catch cans need to be a certain size/ hold a certain volume? internal filters to seperate the air from oil? filter on top or plumb back? or a link would be awesome

from personal experience, the just jap rb30de belts are 150 teeth, which if going high compression n/a the teeth meet in the middle before getting the right tention (i ground 0.030" off the block and 0.080" off the head to get 10.5:1) i know of someone making a carbon fibre rb30de lower cover mould, (who is also making the top and coil pack cover mould for the rb26)

whilst i was fitting the welsh plugs i noticed 2 holes 1 to the top left and 1 dirrectly to the right (drivers side) anyways what goes here?

and theres my rb30/26 which ive been saving, researching all the parts, doing alot of maths, machining, planning so it is all done right the first time for the past 2 years, should be going in sometime in november, (will be upgrading the gearbox and diff next year)

Cosmetic and Styling mods http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...-Mods-f157.html for future reference that would have been the correct place to have posted this topic

an update, the insurance companies assesor came out, and said (not in exact words as he answered like a politician) that as an independant assesor has given his opinion on the value of the car, he will look at the market value of the car with them modifications and his superiors will decide on either to give me a payment to repair the car, or payment for the market value. as i dont want to have the car writen off he has noted that i have refused an extra $300 in the salvage value which means i keep the car regardless of the pay out, which if it should be a "financial write off" they will advise me to report the car as a write off but cant enforce it and i can choose to fix it or cancel the rego and wreck it myself. end result ill keep the car and with in the next 48 hours ill know exactly how much the assesor says i would be owed for the car/repairs

yeah a few more old school muscle cars wouldnt hurt, and they shouldn't spin tyres while doing wheel stands, and muscle cars shouldnt have big rims, and should brake 1/3rd down a straight to understeer at the next turn though no more chargers, before fnf1 chargers were like US$3k in reasonable condition US$8k in good, after fnf1 then dukes of hazard butchered remake, and last i looked they go for US$25k for a full restoration project 1970 plymouth superbird maybe (definatly no 1969 daytona chargers their too rare with only 507 ever made)

no such thing as safe speeding, regardless of how ever u feel the need to justify it, your a f**king tool, and even if you werent caught, you still have contributed to the extra bullshit laws the rest of the P platers who do the right thing all the time have to deal with 20km/h over thats what 4 points and a automatic 3 month suspension for a p plater in nsw?

i dont think its "underperforming", its most likely on the back of a tow truck so what if 2 motors have the same compacity doesnt mean they will have the same power/ torque, or run the same rods/pistons crank etc, or the same bore & stroke or valve train cams, or even gear ratios diff ratio, tyres etc your a p plater, and regardless of where it was or how much other traffic there was u shouldnt be racing anywhere thats not a controlled enviroment, otherwise other P platers like myself have to cop the bullshit extra laws they keep adding on because of you and others like minded

yup, pretty much it, i couldnt swerve not enough time to react to doing anything but clutch and break and clench

all sold

i was driving south on gibson avenue around 3:20pm on 17/9/2010 sunny dry estimated about 3-4 missisipies behind a white transit van, the van turned left into gow st, i was at 50km/h (60 zone) right foot hovering over the accelerator, subaru forester heading west, attempted to turn right out of gow st we both hit breaks and met in the middle my front passenger side met his drivers side guard just before his front tyre. my skid marks were faint and estimated about a metre long, lots of glass and fibre glass dust left on road exchanged number plates, license info, mobile numbers, he asked me to get a quote and call him, called him friday night, saturday arvo no reply, got legal advice, made police report, done the other things the legal guy said i should do and yeah now the waiting game

yup and im still kicking myself over that, though i was with nrma before but they refused anything after the other driver ran me off the road and kept going which was alot cheaper at $640 for the new bumper and $200 panel beat and repaint guard and $150 wheel alignment, once again another f'n 4WD with a bull bar that has never seen a dirt patch

repair costs including all parts (2nd hand and replacement after market) and gst is $3300 at the cheapest solicitor said i can refuse the insurance companies offer fix it myself (i have the funds 2 fix it now) and sue in small claims court which my solicitor will add his fees and court fees into it as well, no win no fee (other then court fees) and said it usually takes 1 court date. he said ill never win if i took the insurance company to court, as the other driver admitted fualt straight away and there wasnt a insurance report/claim until i mentioned it his insurance company dont have to pay as he has voided his policy or something as they've told me and i was waiting till i was 25 and finished my apprenticeship (next feb/march) till i got full insurance, which was also when my big n/a rb30/26de would have gone in

2. Stat write off (unsafe to repair and re-register) if my car was this bad with structual damage then i guess id have to bite the bullet and accept it being writen off but its repairable so i'm going to try to get it repaired as i was not at fualt and i shouldnt be penalised for doing nothing wrong or liking/spending alot of money a car with little to no market value, (i know insurance companies dont care about this) im happy if the insurance company pays the panel beater to get me back to where i was without me seeing a cent, which my solicitor tells me there's a small chance it will be repaired and not writen off so ill try any/everything to get it repaired before After

clean block, measure bores and crank, light hone or rebore if needed, grind/ linish crank if needed, minimum parts rings & bearings, maybe new pistons as well check between water jackets and head bolt holes on blocks as the rb motors like to crack there alot vacuum test, preussure test, change valve stem seals grind head probably then the rest would be labour a 2nd hand motor you may not have or get told the history and it may not be far from ending up in the same condition its cheaper but its a gamble

easiest is to se if you can get it not marked as a whrite off and get them to repair everithing thats the aim, ive had the car valued and the repair bill is now 3/5s of the cars value pretty much im just following the solicitors advice, i can reject the insurance companies offer, fix the car myself (i got plenty saved to do so) and sue the driver for the costs

all quoted up i dont beleive that my car should be writen off in an accident, its not a complete loss/ total write off may not be worth much in numbers but this exact 1 well think of it like this you have a dog, he breaks his leg it costs $300 to fix it, but $200 to buy a new one, would you fixed it or replace it?

D_I_F yeah had a search there and book marked it, but wanted to see if there was any that anyone recomended before i started calling random companies tomorrow