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Piggaz

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Posts posted by Piggaz

    Any Albins owners $500 take me for a drive to help me decide on gearbox

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted

    You can most definitely drive a sequential in the street. Here is a video of just sub 2500 rpm, taking off from a set of lights, casually using the clutch in a 60 kph zone. You do not need to hang off the gear stick like a gorilla, tearing around like a lunatic 100% of the time. Put a bit of preload on the stick and all is well. 🤷‍♂️

    You have to go down through the gears. Big deal, bikes are like that. It’s just a little bit ‘different’.

    The box in video is a PPG 6 speed. This video was taken not long after I got it in. Definitely got more a feel and was able to cut out most of the engagement of the dogs. 

    • Like 3

    Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    Ahh the old drive line bills. Shit gets very expensive very quickly 🤣

    Fairly Oddparents Burn GIF
     

    The thing about looking at the ratios and basing them around 2 corners on a track, it may potentially suck everywhere else, especially on the street. Those long ratios are painful.
     

    If you’re going to do it, considering a 5 speed is crazy. They’re junk. A 6 speed “wakes the whole car up”. All of a sudden you have an option of two gears for a corner.

    • Like 2

    Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    51 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

    can't find much feedback on OS Giken (quite appealing as the AUD to JPY is great, $1 buys 95 Yen).

    Sigh, stupid money pit.

    Good chance you’ll bust it (many gtr’s that have used this set have, including myself) gearing is tall as (140 kph at 8000 rpm assuming a 265/35x18 tyre and 4.11 final drive ratio). 5 speeds suck. 

    You’d also need the updated synchros. 
     

    It’s also common to have a 3rd gear vibration with these gear sets. Gtr.co.uk has a couple old threads on the topic.
     

    Can’t put a CD009 in it?

    • Like 1

    R33 GTR Rebuild + Upgrading

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    3 hours ago, UWISSH! said:

    While the engine is out, it would be best advised to upgrade the front diff while the engine is out.

    I would suggest that u also fit a larger sump at this point.

    you want to do all that you possibly can to the engine while it’s out to avoid having to pull it out again to do things u missed.

    there will also be heaps of small little things that will add up in price like gaskets and hoses that u won’t really think of until the engine is out and start re assembly 

    No GTR engine should be allowed back in its hole without a front diff upgrade… hands down, the best mod you can do, just infront of putting the twins in the dumpster.

    • Thanks 1

    Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

    in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

    Posted

    Have a look at what your rear wheels do under braking. When I did my suspension setup however moons ago, the rear was toeing out under brakes making the car farken scary and quite unpredictable. 
     

    Assuming the HICAS is locked out (as we all know it should be because it’s junk), the movement of the lockout bar 10mm up and 10mm out fixed it.

    I have the report somewhere. Could flick it to you if you’d like.

    • Like 1

    Best Turbo for early Spool RB28

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    24 minutes ago, Dr Evil said:

    Hi Hattori, The G35-900 was also one of the favorites, please let me know how you get on :) I need to order something in the next few weeks. Also, What Manifold? Hypertune T4 or 6Boost T4 or Artec V band?

    Wouldn't the manifold you buy be dictated by the turbo and rear housing you choose? 

    You're chasing 'early spool' so it would make sense to choose a T4 TS manifold for a T4 TS turbine housing.

    Porter cable 7424 XP variable speed random orbital polisher + Tortech SD110 - 1010W transformer

    in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)

    Posted

    Guys,

    Item 1: Porter cable 7424 XP variable speed random orbital polisher

    Link: 6 in. Variable-Speed Random Orbit Polisher | PORTER-CABLE (portercable.com)

    Item 2: Tortech SD110 - 1010W transformer

    Link: TORTECH SD110-1010W 1010W USA STEPDOWN TRANSFORMER 110V DIELECTRICALLY ISOLATED - Radio Parts

    Location: Moorebank, Sydney 2170.

    Preferred pick up due to thew weight of the transformer. I will post at buyers expense.

    Condition. Have used both roughly 5 times each to polish my own GTR, so the KMS on them are minimal. What is shown in the photos is what you will receive.

    Price: $100 for both. 

    PM if interested.

    NOTE: DO NOT message me saying you will take it and then just go MIA. Seeling stuff is enough of a pain in the ass without having that dribble going on.

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    Dyno Results for HKS GT III - SS Sports Turbo - Twins

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    GTII-SS is a glorified SS/-9 with lazy journal bearings.

    It wouldn’t be hard to beat it. 

    Stockers are average at best, lazy, laggy, soft as a sponge cake under foot and boring. Going bigger just makes the whole turd system worse.

    Josh, so throw a vcam at a stock 2.6 with a budget gtx gen2 3071 (insert your flavour of snail brand) open scroll, let alone a TS setup. I would bet my own car that it would kick the shit out of a SS/-9/ whatever the latest shit offerings that HKS have on offer, out of the park.

     

     

    • Like 1

    Dyno Results for HKS GT III - SS Sports Turbo - Twins

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Considering Voodoo‘s results using a Gen2 3576, something along the lines of a Gen2 3071/G series 660/ EFR 7163 or something similar would be right up the alley for the goal here. Depending on how fancy your want to get, go all in with a TS manifold (not sure why if you’re doing the swap you wouldn’t go that extra step as you’re buying a manifold and rear housing to suit anyway).

    Between buying and optimising all the junk needed for a twin setup… dumps, front pipes, playing with the twin turbo pipe, potentially AFM’s, hard pipe kit and the turbos themselves, going from a totally stock car to a single there wouldn’t be that much price difference. Couldn’t be assed sitting here and working it out.

    An open scroll 3576 is doing it’s thing by high 3000’s on a stock donk, drop down a couple snail sizes to fall in line with what a typical -7/-9 setup would do and the result would take a big steamy turd of the twin buttplugs. The thing is guys don’t buy a turbo that’s the same flow rate as what the twin turds will flow, it’s always more.
     

     

    • Like 3
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