zafeniak

I know you said 10 PSI, and I replied, that 20 PSI on a T88 would still be in the turbos efficiency range, and then I asked you a question, but what do you think will happen to the engine runnign 20 PSI with a T88"?

I know, I never said you can't increase HP via other means... You answered the question yourself. Simple premises, and I'll define them for you... Ready? Premis 1: In the sentence above, you expressly admit that more HP will increase the likelihood of engine damage. Premis 2: We all know for a fact that winding up the boost increases horse power. Conclusion: If you wind up the boost, you will increase horsepower, and thus, increase the likelihood of engine damage. Was that simple enough for you?

Mate what don't you understand? I seriously don't know how else to explain it to you, I am beginning to think your retarded.... This is the simplest way I can put it, don't give me a bullshit answer, just 'A' or 'B': What car do you think will last longer, a car running 25 PSI (A), or a car running 10 PSI (B). Now you may say, "yes, but with supporting mods and good tune blah blah blah you can run 25 PSI safely" Ok, fine, have it your way, even if the car does have the supporting mods to handle 25 PSI, do you think it will last longer on 25 PSI or 10 PSI. Don't forget, ANSWER THE QUESTION, A or B? Seriously, it's not that hard understand. If you answered A, I should slap you senseless with my dick. If you answered B, I am glad that what I've said finally got through that retarded head of yours.

Did I hit a soft spot? Mi scuzi.... No need to get upset now and have a teary. If you go a problem with me, PM me, I'll be more than happy to fix you up, as I said, stop high-jacking the thread. Start your own thread if you want to argue about boost levels. MORE BOOST = MORE DAMAGE full stop! Cheers

dude, your doing it again lol, when did I say that boost is SOLEY is wear inducing?? I believe it is a contributing factor, but I never said solely.... As I said before, please read what I've written. Secondly, I wrote IMO anything ABOVE 17 PSI ain't too good for stock internals, so how does this equate to 1 bar(14.3PSI)???? Cheers

DOOOD, stop rambling and learnt o read stop writing things that I never wrote about. quote '' Your doing well at 50 posts telling ppl, that 1bar is about the limit for a stock RB25'' When did I ever write that? Learn to read... By the way, it's common sense, more boost = more damage all things remaining the same. Now, knowing you, you'll say "yeh, but not with the right supporting mods and a good tune" Everytime you turn the boost up, the life expectancy of you car decreases. Yes you can get mods to slow this rate down, along with a good tune, nonetheless, it will be a quicker rate than had you run 15 psi in comparison to 20 PSI. I haven't seen a car been able to run 250,000 km on stock internals running 20PSI, have you? Anyway, the thread is not about that, if you got concerns, please PM me and stop high jacking this thread. Cheers

Yes, but remember, increase in engine temperature, increase in combustion pressure, increase in power etc etc are symptoms.... Symptoms of what you ask? The casue, BOOST

Not only that, but there in only so much pressure the engine and cooler piping can take before there is a large amount of back pressure created to the turbo. Simple phyics, have you ever noticed the fan in your bathroom spins faster with the door or window open? Same principle with the turbo, maybe 20PSI will place unnecessary back pressure on your turbo and will force it to work harder ie. you'd be damaging your turbo. Anyway, IMO, the standard internals were not build to handle that much pressure, I think 16-17 PSI is the absolute maximum people should be running with their after market turbines with standard internals. Cheers

So basically, your telling me, with correct setup ie. making sure AFRs are correct, bigger injectors, fuel pump, exhaust, cooler etc etc etc. AND a very good tune, that boost wont effect the engine? This is how I interperet what you are saying: Car A with the correct setup and a good tune running 20 PSI, compared to car B that also has the correct supporting mods however running only 15 PSI, will last as long and be just as reliable as car B. That doesn't seem right to me. Moreover, you stated that "Abnormally high combustion pressures and temperatures that kills motors". Now, what do you think happens when you increase your boost? I'll tell you what happens: 1) Turbo spins faster since it needs to create more pressure (eg, winding up boost from 15 to 20 PSI), and due to the faster spinning motion, it creates heat, which is transfered to the intake mainfold. Hence, engine temps will increase. 2) Since the turbo is creating more pressure and is directing that pressure to the engine, there will be higher combustion pressure. Thus, your statement is contradictory. "Abnormally high combustion pressures and temperatures that kills motors... Not boost. " Increasing boost CAUSES these things to happen, no matter HOW good your tune is. Furthermore, when I wind up the boost, I noticed an increase in water temps on the Power FC. So, in conclusion, yes, boost DOES and CAN kill your engine.

GT-RS: There were 3 figures greater than or equal to 250 rwkw (excluding that insane figure of 301 rwkw) 250 rwkw @ 16.5 PSI 255 rwkw @ 14.3 (1 bar) I think he had after market cams, not sure? 255 rwkw @ 16 PSI I think a couple of more pounds of boost ie. 17 - 18 PSI and the GT-RS will max out on its efficiency range (ie. marginal cost will exceed the marginal benefit) IMO, I think anything above 17 PSI wont be to good for the rods etc. People always look at the best figures the GT-RS pulls out in the dyno threads (natural bias), what about those 2 people running the GT-RS running 15 PSI and only managed to get 229 RWKW, makes one seriously consider the high-flow option from GCG......

Those people have been dropped from my calculations. Moreover, any outliers (such as those people whom managed to obtain 300rwkw+ with a GT-RS) have not been included in my calculation in order to provide an accurate average with a normal distribution (otherwise, we'd have to start using medians). Thus, the results I posted up remain very accurate. Please, feel free to do them yourself if you think I've left something out. P.S - GCG going over 250 rwkw was VERY rare. There was only 2 people in my sample of 15 with the GCG turbo that got over 250rwkw and I believe both had aftermarket cams. Furthermore, I did not take into addition any GCG turbos with a VG30 exhaust Housing, only r33 exhaust housings.

The turbo KIT only comes in the 0.68 a/r. Yes, I know you can get the turbo in the 0.87 WITHOUT the kit.

Yes, $2,300.00, not including the $200 delivery, $100 duty fees, and $200 GST (tax). In otherwords, $2,800.00 delivered to your door.

Yes, cars do differ with the same turbo. Don't forget, once the GCG turbo is pushed (16 PSI and above) You will need a stronger diaphram for the wastegate or a stronger spring as you will see alot of wastegate creep. GCG turbos become VERY inefficient after 16 PSI and are un reliable from what I've read. More importantly, we are looking at averages here, yes, you do get the occasional turbo that pulls good results such as yours. I also found a GT-RS turbo pulling 300 rwkw. THis is why I am working based on averages.

Maybe so, nonetheless, the 2835 Pro S kit only comes with the 0.68 A/R.