EliseViv

Just a trick I learned when looking for a simple leather knob for my GTST. If you find a threaded knob which is one size too big in the shaft (ie off a Toyota/Lexus), put a helicoil thread in the knob and bingo you have a the correct thread. Just expands your selection of leather knobs! I also had a metal knob, and this did not work well in Mount Isa! Cheers Brett

Hi Robocop, Never thught about this, but it makes sense. Ill track this down as a potential! Thx

G'Day Cadmoon, Ill steel myself for the bureaucarcy and start the process :-) Hopefully I can grandfather into Queensland Rego! Thanks for the positive anecdote :-) Brett

Hi peeps. I've had my car (R32 GTST) many years so I bought it in a simpler age. Consequently it doesn't have the import tag on it. It's been registered in Tasmania, and had several RWC when I've let the rego lapse, but never been a problem. I mentioned the prospect of transferring rego to Queensland and have been informed that it will be an issue without the import Tag. What's the experience of the group, and can I "affordably" get the Tag now. The car is essentially standard except for a few usual items, like air box etc. The car is in Townsville. Thanks Brett

I cringe. We had a tatty 240K 2 door in the late 80s in a padock and destroyed it over the period of a year. powerslides plus. If only I could go back to my 15 year old self and exchange that car for an old corona or something........

If you find a solution Id be appreciative. Mine lifted off like yours a couple of years ago, got worse and worse, then I took it out with the rubber when I painted the car. I could never get it back in without looking sh1t, so left it off (together with the rubber under the metal trim).. It doesnt leak, but it is the worse aspect of the car, as it looks unfinished around the sun roof. Ive looked at a heap of rubber mouldings to replace it with and nothing has come close. Never tried OEM, but I guess it would be an arm and leg, if it even still exists! So good luck fining a solution.. for both of us!

Looks like a good project, I love seeing potential wrecker fodder retreived and made whole again! $500 was a good buy, but I suspect this will be an insignificant project by the time your finished ;-). Cheers Brett

Hello Lads, Does anybody know of a source of steering rack length/specifications, especially for Nissans. Looking to see what out there that may be able to be used to build a Frankenrack to create a manual rack for the R32. I would like to find a manual rack with a lower ratio gearing (than the power steering rack). If the rack ends had the same thread and the rack was physcally the same length the jobs easy! I know that manual racks apparently existed on the R32 povertypacks, but they probably never made Australia. I suspect that the manual racks from N12, N13 pulsars (even 180/200Bs, aussie RWD bluebirds) may be good candidadtes, but if I could find a spec sheet for a few then I can focus the search somewhat. Once I identify the rack I can then look through the Nissan parts bin for appropriate steering column extension lengths as step 2 :-). Id like to buy a few scrapyard examples then once I get one fitted up I can buy a new rack/pinion to complete the task. If a low ratio rack can be found, non-power steering setups are "old skool" but the feel of participation is so much more of an involving drive. A recent drive of a V8 LX Torana with manual steering bought back the long (almost forgotten) engagement of the driver when you actually have to turn the wheel using your own muscles! For those that have driven a '60s mustangs and other american muscle from the time, some of their manual steering racks were so low ratio the steering was very light, but I dont want that either, as that is worse than the lack of feel from power racks. TIA Brett

Hello from the unintitated. A year or so back I had a problem with one coilpack misfiring underload when warm, so to fix it I bought 6 new ones and then replaced the lot. I was interested to work out which was dead, so just kept replacing 1 a day out of the front cylinder on my daily commute and eventually I got the dead coil. Of course I replaced all the spark plugs first and that didnt change anything ;-). Took a while to work out I had a coilpack dead, as I just bought new coil packs out of deperation, and was very happy when I fixed it by accident!! Other than the labourious process I went through is there a recognised diagnostic (other than get the car up to temp, and then give it some boot), other than the elimiation process I went thru? Regards Brett

:-) My response was a little "sharper" than intended,so a heart felt beer will be offered at first opportunity. And yes.. I will be kinda cranky if they leak now.... ;-), but in the interests of full disclosure Ill let you all know!

Thanks to the OH&S rep for pointing me out as "half a job" Harry, He also forgot to mention I didnt document the date and time of the last change, I didnt change the water pump (something I may actually regret!) and I was running a risk of a broken belt for being negligent for a long period, So for the 2 or 3 readers who are not perfect I apologise. Seals that harden do leak, and when it happens fix them immediately, else the oil leak will "f" up the belt quickly and have the nasty consequence of dropping oil on your mate's driveways. I agree if I had a 11.79 second car that gets a proper throttle application on occassion the seals will suffer and need to be fixed on every belt. But for the rest of us with 130HP driven at about 30 HP most of the time the seals do not need replacing very often. But i cede to to your experience as I do not have such an awesome drag machine in my garage.

Hi Peeps, Ive changed alot of Cambelts in my time, but while Ive had my R32 for over 10 years Id never changed the belt as its done less than 20,000km in that 10 years!. Obviously It needed to be done (I was thinking it would be as hard a nails...) and I didnt want it failing on a trip to Townsville, so I looked up a few "how to guides" in the forums to see if theer are any traps for the RB, and used this StageA guide. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73824-adj-camshaft-pulley-new-cam-belt/ which alerted me to the relevant timing marks. What I noticed in all the guides I found on SAU is that they all remove the old belt completely before putting the new one on, which makes it alot harder than it need be, and introduces another potential timing mistake. The trick is to cut the old belt in Half along its length. First prise the old belt half off, and slice it along nits length. Once you start it it will tear along the "nylon belts" that give it strength. Then Push it right ot the back of the cam pulleys Put the new belt on next to it. Then cut the remainder of the old belt and remove it. And push the new belt into position I didnt change my waterpump, but its normally easy enough to do that "behind the half belt" when you are at the beginning of the process. Finally I changed the Idler/tensioner by cable tying the middle of the belt together so it didnt jump teeth while I undid and replaced the old ones. Hope this little trick is useful for someone. Cheers Brett

Hi do you have the indicator stalk/dip switch?

Brilliant. Exactly what I was after. Cheers Brett

I had my car in a dry shed for nearly 3 years. Took the battery out ignored the fuel level threw a few doonas over it and sat it on bricks so the tyres didnt flat spot. When I first started it, took about 5 tries on the strater and it went. Changed the oil and radiator fluids, filled the tank with premium and drove it. Done 5,000k since and no hiccups caused by sitting still. Cheers Brett

Hello Lads, Replacing the coil in my r32 air con compressor, but I cannot see for the life of me how to get the drive wheel off the compressor. Ive got the bolt out of the middle of it, and no amount of hammer taps, screwdriver leverage will seem to budge it. Any clues from the brains trust? Cheers Brett

Ive not dont it on the RB, but find the inlet/outlet out of the back of the engine, and simply take one of the heater existing hoses where it attaches to the firewall and hook it up to the other inlet/outlet on the engine. No new materials required

Ok off to repco tomorrow to get a pump/filter. I'll track down a consult cable when in in townsville next. Thanks for the sage advice. So this forum fixed my AC and likely this emerging issue. You lads are worth your weight in gold. Cheers Brett

Hello Peoples, Car is a 1990 R32 GTST bog standard except for a front mount inter-cooler. I am concerned that I may have an issue developing but don't know where to start to find a cause. For the entire time I've owned the car (10 years) I have turned the ignition to on, waited for the fuel pump to prime (takes 4 or 5 secs to stop pumping) and then start the car. I've presumed there is a fuel pressure switch on the ignition circuit somewhere. If I try to start the car before the fuel pumps primed, it simply wont fire. Now its become second nature and I never really thought about it, as I get in car turn Ignition on, put on seat belt, scratch balls, check mirrors and then start car. Recently however its becoming an issue, as I wait till the fuel pump primes and then try starting it and nothing happens. Ill try it 4 or 5 times (turn to off and then to start) and then it'll start. It eventually always starts however! The battery is good as it is charging at nearly 14V and dips to just under 12V when cranking (a dick smith cheapie volt metre directly on the battery). The only real change is now I live in Mount Isa/Townsville and its obviously a lot hotter than suburban Hobart. The occasional non-start problem has coincided with the move to the hotter climate. Does anyone else "wait for the prime" before starting or have a dickie fuel pump/fuel pressure switch? Or is there something else likely a miss? Brett

9.1 litres per 100 km for mount Isa to Townsville trip. Sat on 100 - 110 the whole way. R32 gtst (manual) bog standard. Uses about 12 litres per hundred round town.

Thanks for the feedback. Ill grab one off evilbay

Hello Peeps, Thanks to the community knowledge base, I have successfully got my AC working well again (9C at the vents on FC :-)), and documented the fix at the end of this link. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199591-aircon-regassers-in-melbourne-that-use-hychill-hr12-gas/ The problem is I now have a problem with the AC fuse (which appears to power the AC electromagnet) blows after about an hour of operation. The last time I was probably lucky that I didn't get a fire as it melted the spade fuse in the fusebox?!? So back tot he collective. Anyone know where I might start to diagnose this? 1989 R32 GTST - Bog standard. Thanks Brett

Also i had put in about 300 grams of hychill, what is the recommended amount? My gauges are cheap and im thinking they are not reliable enough to test with, so an empty fill will need to do.