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About shane344

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    Rank: RB25DE

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    99 Stag RS4S
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  1. I have this problem. No auto headlights option. Anyone else found a solution? Sorry for thread dig.
  2. Hate to be the worst case scenario guy but head gasket? My Cressida (different car I know but similar symptoms) used to eat coolant, and number 6 spark plug used to get rusty. If it sat for a week or so, it used to cough when you first started it until it cooked the water off. Those things were renowned for blowing them after toyota ballsed up the head torque specs but mine went softly rather than properly. It never got hot, just used to slowly empty the rad... Kept driving it for a year, didnt get much worse, sold it cheap-cheap...
  3. I got another flat battery after driving the car every day a few weeks back. So borrowed another alternator off a helpful dude. Drove for a week with no drama. Bearings in mine were obviously rooted but wouldnt be causing any electrical fun times. So I got my original one reconned (Nissan dealer in my area wanted $1500 for the privilege of waiting 6 weeks for a new one) and it only needed brushes. Mine has been back in for another week, no more dramas. May have inadvertantly fixed it by tightening a loose alternator connection but meh, fingers crossed, problem theoretically solved.
  4. Hi all, I need to reco my alternator as I'm having some gremlins.... Unfortunately this conflicts with my needing to attend work daily as I only have one car. So it would be pretty sweet if I could borrow someones spare slternator while I get mine reconditioned. I can pickup and deliver afterwards and compensate with booze or something? I'll give yours back in a fortnight tops, so dont worry about getting stooged with my dud... Its a Stagea series 2 with a neo in it so chasing one from a similar Stag or an R34 GTT with a neo. Nissan Aust want $1500 ex japan, Covs, Veales and most auto sparkies cant find an equivalent. Didn't think it would be this hard to be honest. Cheers
  5. Have to bail also, wasnt able to sort a gearbox bleeding issue. Enjoy.
  6. Anyone got a pointer as to where I can find a body wiring diagram? Lots of threads on workshop manuals but they seem old...
  7. OK, earth tracing sucks, its seem like a wild goose chase that is pretty difficult to test. So i checked the main battery earth to the body and block and that seemed fine. Then I got bored and looked for easy alternatives, found a bunch of mess behind the tail lights. See here: There were scoth crimps on the brake circuit with tails leading to the bumper, tails untaped (crimps were taped though in a big ball of crap) and just hanging cut in the bumper. Both sides were the same, I can only think of crazy KITT from night rider LED brake light strips under the bumper.. Crap I removed: I tidies it up and put it back as it was from Nissan.. The history of this car is weird. The first photos I got from the yard had a weird nav thing on the drivers side of the tunnel. Pink diamontes on the dash. Polish shadow in the paint near the roof rails from tv antennaes. RS260 nose covnersion with skirts but not the back... Long story short, didnt fix the voltage problem. Going to actually have to pull all these sh!t earths off and wire brush underneath aren't I.....
  8. Keen to bring my wagon for a morning out, this place ok for small people (18month old)?
  9. The brake lights in the center garnish next to the number plate had been disconnected (chopped) in the tailgate when I got the car. I assume to meet an aus standard of 3 brake lights max. I reconnected the cut cables, solder tape etc. I reconnected then for making more niceness a few months ago, only started happening recently. Fuses all look correct at 10 amp and should theoretically blow if this is the issue.p have good multimeter. batt voltage is up at 14ish whilst driving using center stack guauge pod. was 13,9 last time I checked at idle with proper meter. haven't seen battery light on dash but gauge shows less than 10. I haven't had a chance to test since my first post, will check more when back home. cheers men.
  10. Earths seem feasible to check. I'll start on the bigguns in the engine bay. If not them Ill look at the tailgate lights, I reconnected the globe holders after they were hacked for compliance, maybe the tailgate ground aint the best, seems a long shot though....
  11. Hi All, After a little trouble shooting assistance chasing down an issue I'm having with my wagon. So I'm losing voltage when I tap the brakes, only on initial application, when the lights get activated. It's enough to turn my head unit off (basic single din install no amps) which is how I noticed it, and visibly bump my volts gauge down to around 10 volts. It's only temporary on initial brake application and if i hold my foot on during a normal stop it pops back up and away we go again. It's really intermittent, its happened three times in about 15 drives, but when its happening it can even drag enough down to cause a cough through the engine as it runs out of voltage to run the coils and ecu. It has stalled the car at idle when I was playing around in the garage trying to find it.. I have turned off everything feasible (stereo, AC, fan etc) in car when it's playing up, no difference. Bought a new battery last week after seeing some funny voltages at the battery, was pretty old anyway, happened again today (NS70 suits C34s BTW, skyline stuff isn't tall enough and the battery clamp wont work without adaption). All 5 brake lights are visibly working, havent inspected the globes or holders yet. Voltage and resistance through the globes via the brake switch seem reasonable. Thinking this through I think the brake application is a trigger but not the cause. If I had a short or something in the brake light circuit it should just blow the fuse in that circuit and not cause any other systems to be affected. I'm thinking alternator reg isnt keeping up with sharp changes in load and pooing its pants so to speak, but the battery should be able to keep up and maintain. I guess if alternator is the issue, my new battery is now getting low and not getting charged properly meaning it cant keep up when its having a bad day. Anyone else got any ideas to look at before I order a replacement alternator? I know this place is the awesome to access pretty cluey, helpful and experienced people so thanks in advance.
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