V28VX37

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V28VX37 last won the day on August 28 2016

V28VX37 had the most liked content!

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About V28VX37

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    Rank: RB30E

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Melbourne

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  • Car(s)
    R34 GTT 4door
  • Real Name
    UC

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  1. Thanks mate! On previous tune and fuel system it made 275rwkw on PULP. Current setup is single fuel only as it's not a daily – I can chuck in a couple of 20L jerry cans as part of the sale if you're keen :)
  2. For sale: Nissan Skyline R34 GTT Sedan 318 rwkw, silver, in Victoria Key points: Last of the original R chassis with the venerable RB25DET, in the final & best Neo guise Lots of work done: tyres, suspension, steering, drivetrain, mechanical diff, cooling, turbo, servicing, preventative maintenance etc. etc. Beautiful RB bark at 20 psi and the sweet smell of ethanol A registered car with 4 doors, child seat mounting points, big boot, sleeper look for no unnecessary attention No accident history, always garaged under my ownership, regularly serviced Recent updates: New price New photos New steering rack No RWC selling as is Inspections welcome Price $14,800 Please PM here or call/email via the full ad: http://bit.ly/4doorad – Photos: http://bit.ly/4doorpics Note: This is a replacement thread for the previous one: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471783-fs-well-balanced-r34-gtt-sedan-for-street-and-track-vic/?do=findComment&comment=7885711
  3. V28VX37

    Buy my sedan, it comes with 100% more doors for the same price.
  4. V28VX37

    Some fresh photos of mine, click for album (shameless plug – it's for sale)
  5. V28VX37

    Maybe run a search for rb25de+t , there's plenty of information on the forum
  6. My recommendation would be driver side guard, 13-row cooler is a squeeze but it's been done. Also, make sure you buy a new quality kit with good hoses - basically the Greddy one. Second hand is just asking for trouble. Here's some more info: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461812-oil-cooler-recommendations-for-r34-gtt/?page=2
  7. V28VX37

    Sorry mate not sure, I'm based in Melbourne. Just Jap can supply the arms, they are pretty easy to install Diy, then you'll just need someone to do the alignment.
  8. V28VX37

    I have half worn KU36 in 235/45R17, not overly hard suspension and the said Nismo 1.5-way. They're 'ok' warm/hot but spin city for the first couple of gears when cold. In the wet, forget about it. To OP, I reckon the most cost effective test you could do is borrow a pair of 17" stockies from someone, pretty much with any tyre, and drop pressures to high 20's. Go do a couple of launches and report back. If traction improves you might need to downsize your current wheel setup – if not you could start looking at your suspension setup. Sidenote – The R chassis can't really be dropped much without throwing in a full set of adjustable arms as well. Do you have adjustable rear camber arms and traction rods, and a good alignment from someone knowledgeable?
  9. V28VX37

    ^ What Bill said, try a 17 or 18 inch rim with a good tyre and it's likely to help. Re spring rates, you can measure the length of the spring and the number of coils and run it through an online calculator. Generally high rate springs tend to look really dense so that can be a bit of a giveaway sign. If your ride is harsh, crashy or sharp over uneven surfaces that could indicate hard suspension... but then again too large a rim with not enough tyre sidewall can show similar symptoms.
  10. V28VX37

    It's curious that you're trying to address loss of traction with a diff. Some questions: What tyres are you running? How much meat is left on them? What suspension are you running, especially spring rates? How's your ride height and wheel alignment? Since your car was modified already in Japan perhaps it has touge-spec rock hard 12kg/mm spring rates? That could easily cause bad traction. Also on the diff, I have a GTT sedan with a Nismo 1.5-way in it. It's a beautiful diff on the track and spirited driving, and absolute s__thouse in daily driving. Basically, you can't feather the clutch in tight corners/driveways/manoeuvring as it won't lock properly and gets hellishly skippy. I would never ever ever put such a thing in a daily driver. Make sure you take someone else's 1.5/2-way for a good varied drive before making the decision. Also from my research the GTR diff requires too much mucking around with shafts etc. and is not really a viable option for the GTT. Just my $0.02
  11. V28VX37

    Another thing to do whilst you're at it, check that your water pump bearing is ok and rotates level. Your clutch fan is hanging off it and if it's not level it'll make the fan blade wobble and explode before long. Fairly easy to the check: Record a slo-mo clip from directly above using your smartphone with the engine running and play back; if it's wobbling at the base you might be up for a new water pump too...
  12. V28VX37

    R34 GT-R N1/Nismo (style) front bottom lip with undertray innit? Looks amazing until you smash it in the slightest of speed bumps or driveways... I went with the flexy Rhino Lip, still going ok after four years: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463218-r34-gtt-front-lip-options/
  13. What fuel are you using? I'm finding that going from 98 to E85 has made the car slightly more fume-y, using the exact same exhaust system and 100-cell cat. I reckon ethanol in general provides a more olfactory experience.