V28VX37

Ooo tempting. GLWS

Thanks Ben C34, let's try this table again: I see where they're coming from but I would still take the HP readings as indicative only. For instance, I'm running 285 rwkw without air filter or lid. This is about 380 hp in the old money. Assuming 20% driveline loss would make this 475 hp at the engine. This is all through a 3" turbo back exhaust system - yet the table above suggests Max HP of 339 for this pipe diameter. Now it's all getting awfully academic

Ouch, pricey. Damn Skylines.

You have read through all 9 pages of this, yes? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/139916-diy-r34-manual-conversion-using-r33-parts/ From my understanding most parts are fairly interchangeable but the wiring is a headache. I was chasing a manual 34 loom for a while with no luck, ended up getting the shop to splice and rework my auto loom, not fun. Also I'll save someone else saying this - if your car is fairly stock have you considered selling it and buying a manual? This can work out cheaper than a manual conversion...

About time - subscribed!

Well, no. First up the LSx exhausts are typically twin systems and so 2 x 2.5" (~39 in2 area) is a fair bit more flow than 1 x 3" (~28 in2 area) Skyline system. Also the (catback) piping itself is often not the restriction, it's the other bits like cats and mufflers. Stock headers can also restrict flow if you're running big numbers.

Check your CAS mate, mine was busted with very similar symptoms: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/326043-resolved-misfire-in-r34-gtt-rb25det-neo/

Thanks Stao PM coming your way.

Quick question, I've still got the ATR43SS2 in the car and it's been going great. I've noticed that it sounds louder on boost after a recent track day, is this any cause for concern? It still boosts up to 20psi like before.

Besides the cam high flow cats will make a big difference to the sound. It sounds like your system is a cat back only, correct? I had full Di Fillippo 2.5inch twin system including headers and cats in my V2 Monaro and it sounded brilliant, much better than my R34 This was with a bigger cam and ported heads too so hard to say how much those contributed to the note... EDIT: Also -> www.ls1.com.au

Yeah had a play with the Defis tonight, just basic wiring to battery to see the powerup. The startup sequence is pretty nifty, it's a great piece of marketing on Defi's behalf, looks like every other gauge is doing the same these days

Cheers Daniel, looks like a great setup! I just found more details in your build thread: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452874-dannys-r34-gtt-build-diary-log/?p=7463887 . It sounds like installing the probes is a pretty big job? I agree about not really being able to look at gauges out on the track, however there's always a bit of time during a cool-down lap

Hey Charles if you still have the triple gauge pod (won't need the gauges) I'll grab it, let me know. Cheers

Howdy, I'm looking to buy a stock R34 GTT triple gauge pod that sits on top of the dash, see below. I'm after just the plastic pod, won't need the gauges or wiring as I'll be putting in 60mm aftermarket gauges. Let me know if you have one in decent condition and price posted to Melbourne. Cheers Ps. Also I'm after a second hand manual shifter trim (below right) if anyone's got one:

Awesome - just sent you a PM. Here's the Defis I bought, with the Defi-Link Control Unit II (DF05001-32). They're early 2000's I'd say.

Ok I take your point - just bought a set of 60mm boost/oil temp/water temp Defis at a reasonable price. These are not the latest model but seem to be in good nic. I'll need to find an R34 triple gauge pod (the holder only) and a replacement Defi oil temp sensor somewhere, any recommendations on where to look?

Good thread. I just did a track day and spoke with my workshop afterwards, they recommended getting an oil temp gauge at a minimum. So going by the suggestions in the earlier posts, if I was to get boost and oil temp gauges plus perhaps a shift light for the track, what brands should I be looking at? Autometer, HDI, anything else? Defis look nice but exxy.

Weird. I'm only guessing but maybe a clutch/thrust bearing alignment issue? Busted slave? Clutch pedal out of adjustment? How does it go in other gears, same noise 1st-2nd, 2nd-3rd etc.?

When I was looking at getting my auto built the only shop I could find in Melbourne that might have been able to help was GZM Automotive in Thomastown. They used to do the Keas shift kit, the only alternative I found to the MV autos kits. Perhaps give them a ring. That said I don't have any first hand experience with the work of either shop as I ended going with manual conversion. Is that an option for you at all?

Yes I agree it's all in the tune. My car has had three power levels: 150rwkw - stock (auto) 199rwkw - bolt-on, boost and tune (auto) 275rwkw - bigger turbo etc. and tune (manual) My current mixed driving economy is roughly the same as it was when stock, and marginally worse compared to when I ran 199rwkw with the auto. Gotta be happy with that. Also all quoted figures are from my logbook, not gut feel 'kms to a tank' stuff The other thing I've find with both my previous 293rwkw heads/cammed V8 and this car is that stop-start is what kills the economy in a modded car. So respect to people who can deal with dailying their hotted up cars on Melbourne's/Sydney's congested commutes!

Goodyear F1 Asymmetric 2 on the track, ok but not brilliant. At one stage I overheated the tyres and they got quite greasy, had to back off. On the street I've been happy with these. Edit: 235/45R17 @ 275rwkw

Yeah I read several reports about A1RM squealing and went with the Remsas. They are quite dusty but I chose to take that over noise

Quick update, I was really enjoying my Remsa pads (rated 650 degrees) with DBA T3 Club Spec rotors at Sandown on Saturday. I've got some issues with my brake booster but otherwise it's a great setup, no significant fade and no strange vibrations.

Quick note, I was really enjoying my Remsa pads (rated 650 degrees) with DBA T3 Club Spec rotors at Sandown on Saturday. I've got some issues with my brake booster but otherwise a great setup, no significant fade and no strange vibrations.

Here's some longer term numbers at 275 rwkw: Freeway: 10-12 l/100km City: 13-14 l/100km (stop start kills economy) Sandown: 33 l/100km (on boost most of the time) So yeah 40-odd laps of Sandown drank 46 litres, which I thought was a good effort.