RICE RACING

There is some pretty shit comments in here LOL mostly from kuntz who A) never built a similar set up or B) Never worked on one. LOL as the hobby turbo maker commenting on EFR9180's over speeding and "exploding" We run them regularly over the catalogue speed ratings but as the engineers at BW told me you need to know what you are doing, but there is a decent over speed margin on them. The issue you will have is the 3.2lt engine, the map/tip ratio will be problematic and it will adversely effect the power on the 1.05AR, which we have run. If you go a 1.45 the response on the in line 6 cylinder will be garbage which is not the fault of the turbo its more a function of the firing order and packaging problems in the Datsun shitbox. Feel free to email me if you want some real knowledge on this rather than forum guesses and paragraphs of BS from pretenders

There is a new alternative to the others mentioned here that will be released soon, been working on it for a while now. I've done a bit on water injection as have many others > an external link for people interested in some of the details below its worth a read I think as it covers some of the control methods and hardware details not commonly known or discussed. https://www.syvecs.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=499&sid=7033ba860615fc3cf3a7de23768d620d&start=40

You know Elon Muskrat has won a contract with the Lebanese space agency to make a special Uranus probe lander mission using emotionaltron ECU and GTST body shell with special hiflow fitted with EFR black series internals using all the hypothesis off this forum, he was saying the key is the independent staged drive by wire and keeping the turbo on the small side cause when you do a hektik launch everyone knows that its area under the curve that is important when going to Uranus

I've been doing traction control before most of you could walk lol. You missed the point actually you dont get any of it I think as you are not an engine person nor someone who drives properly on track or road? just guessing there cause I cant really work out other than you wanting to type to read back your own posts what is the point. You have two experienced people telling you why a wrong (smaller) turbo is inferior yet you keep on about doing it the ghetto way and not addressing any points. I get it if you want to go slower and stress the engine more, other than that don't really get what you are on about honestly.

Can't beat a 13B turbo

No it is not exactly the same, you are taking me out of context, I realize its a forum and everyone thinks their opinion is worthwhile but its actually useless cause if you take note I replied to the OP who brought it up and he shared his real world track experience and I have same experience personally and through end users. Too small a turbo is a massive mistake on a track car end of story. It is similar to adding traction control, this does not solve issue of lack of grip, the TC cant make more grip it can only let you use closer to the limit of what your car has. Too small a turbo cant be made to have more power than it can deliver, so the DBW comment was just a pointless bit of dibble put up to make someone feel good about themselves NOT to understand the point of the OP's post....... just another reason why forums are forums in the main part.

The DBW does nothing but mask the problem, it is still totally pointless restricting the engine when you actually need the power, the DBW cant magically 'add' power. And this is why its important to use the right turbo, way too many people get hung up on the modern bullshit as a panacea for bad fundamental choices, a loss is a loss, too small a turbo gives power where its useless and not enough where its needed, simple.

EFR did ok today at Eastern Creek in Sports Sedans, put the boat anchors in their place

^ So many people just don't get this, it's a well known fact that too small a turbo while nice for a dyno sheet saying "look kuntz here is superior spool low down power" it is totally shit for applying power after apex to corner exit.

Thanks Rob, We are going to slap on one of these 8374 Full Race kits to a built 2.2 on EVOX, not going for internet records just increase the specific power while keeping some response, will let you know how it goes

Thanks for that oh be careful with those type of flex joints, customer of mine had one fail in his car a few weeks ago they collapse in on them selves to about 1/2 the normal diameter under sustained load at high heat.

what boost pressure? did you have at peak '600awhp' power

With a Life Racing based ECU and correct set up that engine would have run properly LOL........ Regardless goes to show what a superior power train config can manage, we run a 2zz 1.8lt engine on EFR at same level of peak power but with far broader power range, similar vehicular constraints, and I can confirm it makes lesser packages look 'compromised' when you look at the performance potential.

As I was saying a while back 'drifting' is pretty under utilized (stress wise) compared to what we do, but interesting to see it first hand here below...

Good old Klaus, I was them when it was first started, I personally got sick of all of the problems associated with supporting the use of those. They are A grade 24k gold plated turd.

On the EFR's with multiple cars running F88 and S8 ECU's I have Turbo (speed) and Map (boost) targets, which has priority is totally a function of a variety of parameters. It's this superior control as to why I can run the things so consistently at a set turbine speed and not broken one yet....... Though I am sure Geoff A hole puckers quite a lot when he see's the numerous logs of many cars we send through WARRANTY VOID ! haha

Syvecs/Life Racing (same thing) has everything standard, MAP, PRP, Turbo, control are all there. If you need them or not is up to you or your 'tuna' to exploit. No need to guess or get someone to make it, all been done for you and it works too.

On all of the turbos I do run anti phase control to counter the effect of TIP increases relative to increasing rpm, this will be what is needed, but read Geoff's comments on lack of sophistication for some. If you can do that then will help with MAP not holding to the rev limiter.

and THIS is why you deal with a company that is not just using a soldering iron and outsourcing manufacture to make a box of electrics (of which there are many such types) but rather a company who actually makes engines that compete at the top levels of motorsports you just cant beat that, and there is no one else who is more experienced with turbocharged engines than Life Racing ! Why indeed LOL

What cams do you have in it? Got any logs from the road in 1st 2nd gears etc? I see what you mean though

That is weird. I posted up stacks of info (only one to do this???) with a 3.15lt same turbo combo as you currently have. Makes everything that turbo can deliver and to 8k rpm easy. The issue I wrote about allot is the in line 6cyl is a total shitbox of an engine, they are typically un responsive, so any larger turbo combo and it would be a nugget for road point and squirt duties, but don't know your application so wont comment on suitability for you, other than to add it wont work great on much other than flat shift gearbox 'full noise' use and higher road speed 150kph + range. Keep in mind this is with dual gate split 1-3 and 4-5 exhaust manifold set up as well.

Thanks mate, yep its the best by a looooooong way !

I guess ~40psi boost is enough for most though

Beware the IWG's from turbostupid are a fair nugget. They piss out air cause with proper phase anti phase control with one chamber fully shut and the other fully open even on a 1 bar spring you cant run much more than 3600mB ~38psi (gauge pressure at sea level) with a high TIP values (EFR9174 0.92A/R IWG). Then again not sure if you soft cocks :) run real boost like we can with water injection :P FWIW, I have run the limits of those specific IWG branded items (various applications) and no way in hell they can run serious boost pressures on very low 0.5bar wg springs.

China ftw