Mr. Untouchable

Sold

will give it a month, if it doesn't move I will strip it down and part it out.

have had two emails about people wanting to buy the front bar, yes you can have it, 9 grand, comes with a r33 attached to it.

R33 GTS-t Imported and complied in 07 in 100% stock form except stereo. 320kw at 17psi. Gt35R turbo XTR australian made highmount manifold Custom plenum + Gizzmo phonelic thermal gasket plate Q45 90mm throttle body 46mm external gate 740cc injectors Z32 AFM Splitfire coilpacks Catch can Header tank Power FC Shift-i 7 stage LED shift light 600mm FMIC - custom piping with twin GTR bov's Exceedy clutch -HHHD Shimmed diff - 3mm preload G4 356mm 8 pot brakes front OEM rear calipers with slotted rotors and QFM pads Bilstein shocks/coilovers 8kg springs front - 5kg rear Whiteline sway bars- 24mm adjustable front, 22mm adjustable rear GTR strut braces front and rear Subframe lock bushes Custom Brad Sherriff modified front LCA's - motorsports rose joints. Adjustable castor/tension rods. Adjustable front UCA's. Adjustable rear UCA's. Hicas lock bar. Sparco pro 2000 seats with Sparco kidney pads on Bride rails. Sparco 4 point harnesses. Bond Roll Cage. Quell fire extinguisher Scratch resistant Lexen screens in doors and rear. Lightened doors. Completely stripped interior and floor pan and interior painted out to match exterior. Roof lining and door trims still fitted Momo steering wheel, detachable hub/wheel. Custom front bar/splitter 400r side skirts Veilside rear bar with custom diffuser MU Secret carbon bonnet Carbon headlight intake Japspeed rear wing, fully adjustable plus boot lid bracing. 18×9.5 +25 DTM wheels all round with brand new kuhmo semi slicks - V70a mediums. Never fitted new gates timing belt plus idler and tensioner bearings plus new bolt and stud fitted and water pump in last 500 kays Rear guards rolled and lipped front guards pumped (aprox 2") Panel and paint in excellent order. Plus mocal oil cooler kit - needs fitting. Tuned By pro automotive and ran on castrol edge 10w60 since 07. Never missed a beat doesnt use oil good safe tune, and did 50 thousand kays in its current form and a handful of social track days. Cars had quite a lot of weigh removed around 180kg over a standard R33. Cage is CAMS legal for state level motorsport, needs to be log booked. No test drives. And needs wheel alignment. 186000 kays. I have put 70000 on it. Only thing I have ever replaced that wasnt by choice was new drivers side window regulator. Still has electric windows. Offers over 10k. Located in Tas. [email protected]

R33 GTS-t Imported and complied in 07 in 100% stock form except stereo. 320kw at 17psi. Gt35R turbo XTR australian made highmount manifold Custom plenum + Gizzmo phonelic thermal gasket plate Q45 90mm throttle body 46mm external gate 740cc injectors Z32 AFM Splitfire coilpacks Catch can Header tank Power FC Shift-i 7 stage LED shift light 600mm FMIC - custom piping with twin GTR bov's Exceedy clutch -HHHD Shimmed diff - 3mm preload G4 356mm 8 pot brakes front OEM rear calipers with slotted rotors and QFM pads Bilstein shocks/coilovers 8kg springs front - 5kg rear Whiteline sway bars- 24mm adjustable front, 22mm adjustable rear GTR strut braces front and rear Subframe lock bushes Custom Brad Sherriff modified front LCA's - motorsports rose joints. Adjustable castor/tension rods. Adjustable front UCA's. Adjustable rear UCA's. Hicas lock bar. Sparco pro 2000 seats with Sparco kidney pads on Bride rails. Sparco 4 point harnesses. Bond Roll Cage. Quell fire extinguisher Scratch resistant Lexen screens in doors and rear. Lightened doors. Completely stripped interior and floor pan and interior painted out to match exterior. Roof lining and door trims still fitted Momo steering wheel, detachable hub/wheel. Custom front bar/splitter 400r side skirts Veilside rear bar with custom diffuser MU Secret carbon bonnet Carbon headlight intake Japspeed rear wing, fully adjustable plus boot lid bracing. 18×9.5 +25 DTM wheels all round with brand new kuhmo semi slicks - V70a's. Never fitted new gates timing belt plus idler and tensioner bearings plus new bolt and stud fitted and water pump in last 500 kays Rear guards rolled and lipped front guards pumped (aprox 2") Panel and paint in excellent order. Plus mocal oil cooler kit - needs fitting. Tuned By pro automotive and ran on castrol edge 10w60 since 07. Never missed a beat doesnt use oil good safe tune, and did 50 thousand kays in its current form and a handful of social track days. Cars had quite a lot of weigh removed around 180kg over a standard R33. Cage is CAMS legal for state level motorsport, needs to be log booked. No test drives. And needs wheel alignment. 186000 kays. I have put 70000 on it. Only thing I have ever replaced that wasnt by choice was new drivers side window regulator. Still has electric windows. Offers over 10k

Thanks Damo

Get some quotes on the Kumho's?? I got my 18 265's for under 400 per tyre. 17's will be close to your federal quotes

I'd consider the kumho v70a's mate, faster tyre and i reckon you should be able to get them for simular money i got 18's for around 375 a tyre in medium. our local suspension/tyre/tuning guru says they are quite easy to drive on and in cold weather (sub 15c) they will go all day, good life and they are fast. only a tiny bit off dunlops dz03 for half the money.

Yup, I was geared up to get them, guys who were running tyres they got ages ago raved about them, I was quoted 360 per tyre in 18/265/35 in medium comp, but too many guys said the compound had changed and they were now slow, ordinary. Wasn't just one either quite a few said the same thing. So, after much umming and ahhhhing I went kumho v70a. Ended up being the best balance of performance vs dollars plus good lasting, my local guru says easy to drive on, so they ticked all the boxes. The Hankooks were up around 450 per tyre, AO50 was dear ish too and dunlops scary dear. Bit of good info in the circuit semi thread and the semis for sprints/hill climbs thread

Very very cool, very cool. Engine is looking badass. Should sound fantastic too. I would guess 140-150 on 98? Judging by a mates basic 30 with cheapie eBay chip and very basic mods and mild cam. Twin cam 12:1 with better ecu and better everything else should see mid 150's I would think? E85 who knows. Shouldn't be too far off your expectations!

I bought my G4's off a mate who ran them for roughly 3 years racing in our super series here in tas, in that time the car was running from 260kw odd up to 450kw plus, held up amazingly well only one rotor replacement in that time and at the very end as they have done one days work or less then I bought them. I wouldn't run g4 coilovers or probably anything else they sell but their brakes ARE proven. There are heap of pads that will fit them too as they take a AP size pad.

Sweet :-)

rightio, cheers. Appreciated

Clandestine, Rainx is you're friend!! 10 bux a bottle works wonders. I'm still a little way off, have actually got a bit done recently but awaiting for a few things to turn up and still yet to order some others... Made my canards yesterday and today, about 10 hours from start to finish. Thinking October, fingers crossed

ahh okay, yep, read something similar on time attack forums or somewhere ages ago. seems as tho brake ducting offers no gain for 6 laps or less. that settles that then

motor looking pretty shmicko!.. on the topic of brake ducting, I am/was planning to mount some allstar brake ducts into my 400r style bar, 3" hose back to ally air guide plates mounted to castor rods/LCA's BUT... how did you go with 3-4 laps? i'm thinking for sprints time attacks and short style events, brake ducting Vs blocked holes for greater aero benifits, whats the verdict?

Cheers Duncan. Good to know I didn't dream it up. Burgz man and byebye (Ian?) I'm more confused now, taa. Lol who would of thought it would be so hard. SO. I can't just do what you have Duncan, run the positive cable off the battery, up the a reachable spot, to a switch, then back to the fuse box thingy in the boot, then run the ignition wire out if the ecu loom, up to the switch, then back into the loom so I'm cutting battery & ignition? Will this stop th car. Also, thinking out loud, I'm not going to be turning the car off this way unless I'm stacked and or upside down. I'll only ever be pulling the switch while the car is off to stop the battery going flat, so worrying about alternator damage doesn't worry me as that will be the least of my issues if it needs to be pulled whilst running. Question is does the car stop with ignition wire cut and battery positive cable cut? Where does this resistor come in that comes with the FIA spec switch? Sorry if it all sounds retarded. I'm good at other stuff, I'm good at dents. And paint. But bad at wires

Hi guys, just looking to clear up a few things. the ye olde search fuction has failed me. lots of info of anti theft set ups but looking for motorsports/Cams legal setup I'm looking to install a kill switch, obviously. i want the most simple setup i can get away with, what do i need to be cutting? its a 33 so battery is still in the boot, do i run a switch in the engine bay in the pos cable off the alternator and run one pull cable to the scuttle panel infront of the drivers A pillar and a second cable into the car mounted to the cage or somwhere so its able to be pulled from outside and inside?? should i be cutting from the battery instead? the kill switch i looked at is a grayston unit with the extra pins and resistor etc, do i have to cut the ign out aswell? i could of sworn i saw a install on here yonks ago by maybe (duncan)?? it looked as tho the battery was in the boot, the pos cables were run up to behind the handbrake area to a plastic jaycar spec box to the kill switch the back to the battery. maybe i dreamt it up any help greatly appreciated, cheers

cool, thought that might be the case. Still bummed about the federals, have searched around and found a few other sites where people have found a difference in the new FZ 201's. at 365 per corner they would of been very affordable. That's life I guess. Kumho's still the hot favourite I think ATM, performance-dollar-life wise. Not much cheaper than z221's but life span is sounding better still.

Nice work mate looking good. The new wing is not as good as the orgin looks really good with the origin job. I found a good wing out of the UK that's a dead ringer of the origin but slightly wider, 1760mm 39-48cm upright hight depending on how's it's set. Quality is A1. Also couple of questions, are you running a FIA approved kill switch? With that resistor to go between to ignition and coil igniter or how ever it goes? I'm thinking about putting a kill switch in the negative cable.. Is this bad or okay? Also what's the MX5 battery weigh in at do you know? What CCA? Cheers

Is anyone out there running the same comp tyre for sprints and hill climbs and if so are you just starting the pressures higher for hill climbs???

Maybe put some pics up mate? I saw them listed on gumtree i think, you in qld?

inbox was full, just msged you on Facebook mate

You will butcher your rear quarters trying to get the 295's to fit. You could roll and flare out your quarters a good bit more than what they are ATM, but chasing THAT much the quarter will sink further up and scrubbing out under full load will haunt you I reckon. I've pushed mine to the limit without major work, ie heating, pin pulling a totally re shaping. No way I'd get them under my quarters.

Good info. All stuff to consider. Sounds like the Hankooks would be a better hill climb tyre but not so good for sprints. The longevity of the kumho's is very enticing. A mate is running them (265 mediums) on his 33 gtst, and has run 3 rounds (of 4 races of 6-10 laps iirc) and punched out a PB on the 3rd round. Says they are holding up pretty well, that's on a 500kw/hollinger beastie so I'd imagine I'd get a full year of super sprints and hill climbs out of a set. Compared to the dunlops dz03 r's which last a race day, which is so far out of my budget it's not funny. Anyone had much experience with the z221's in the wet?