marni

Yep that’s it the slide was jammed I got lucky though and got another head and block off someone who not long got it off a mechanic who was working on it for a customer that couldn’t pay big machine works been done on it so I’ve gotta cut my losses on the other one gonna be to expensive to fix now

Ah it’s too late now but it looks like a slide in the oil pump was jammed right where the spring and bolt are it’s f**ked the lot now the biggest lesson I’ve learnt during this build is, everyone offers opinions, you go with it because they are “mechanics” I was outnumbered now I’ve caused thousands of dollars in damage, on new parts because I didn’t listen to my instinct and now I’ve gotta fork it out to fix it everyone pretty much now is like I told u so which is what f**ks me off the most I’m 5000 steps behind where I started so take responsibility for your own shit and you won’t end up like me, don’t try and let people tell u how to do your shit, if u make the decision stick to it, I would’ve been better off if i did V8 boys know f**king nothing about turbos at all

I put a Nissan VRS kit through it, started leaking oil from both front cam shaft seals, rear main is leaking slightly (I took the motor and box back out yesterday) and the turbo seal is f**ked on the exhaust side wondering if relative thanks for replying

Hey guys, Has anyone blown the oil pump? what symptoms came up? really want to know, if someone could be bothered replying that would be great thank you Marni

Rebuilt RB25DET Lets skip to the juicy bit, this is my head after max 2km of testing, not running well before, thought valves may be the issue but they seem ok. Comp is at 140 (I know it's low) this is the intake side, no soot anywhere else, just in this one spot what the fk could've caused it? thanks Marni

They all seem to be working fine, it's like as soon as it cranks and starts, gets oil pressure then dies straight away, sounds promising for like 1 second and then cuts straight out im wondering if it's a lazy lifter or something although when i installed the last head and had a stuck lifter I had no comp in that cylinder whatsoever

When I had the stock reg on it test driving it was over fuelling and stalling as soon as you'd come of the throttle and the RPM would drop

It ran fine for like 9 years with that turbo and just an electronic boost controller haven't really had it on boost just yet cos it's not running right

Yea rebuilt motor with issues haha

Hey fellas, hope you're all well so here we go I need help I rebuilt my R33 series 2 GTS-T from the ground up. The rebuilt motor is having trouble starting and idling. Rebuilt RB25DET series 2 Car kicks over then cuts out straight away, like its starved of fuel. Then when you try start it again it gets really compressiony doesn't want to start. Leave it for a min and it will, but with horrible misfire, eventually sorts itself out but not fully, hunts for a bit. Doesn't sound like it's running on 6 cylinders. Head got rebuilt, had no issues with old one, piston rings were finished so I had to rebuild it Compression ratings at 140 across all 6 Seems to be over-fueling but it's always run rich. I've checked the: Coil pack loom, tested fine Fuel pressure fine Oil pressures good Spark is fine Timing is spot on New - Walbro fuel pump - Saads fuel reg - Iridium spark plugs - AFM - K&N Oil Filter - Gates timing belt - Nissan water pump - Nissan thermostat Old (off the motor before rebuild, but were working when dismantled) - GCG high flowed turbo - GCG FMIC - Injectors and rail (standard series 2) - ECU (standard series 2) - Intake manifold (inc AAC) - Exhaust manifold - Exhaust - BOV - Alloy Radiator - Cam shafts - After market boost controller - CAS - Pod filter - Splitfire coilpacks (haven't travelled more than 3000km) Any suggestions for me to test? I'm trying to organise a new CAS to test. We were test driving the car all week in our workshop carpark after we installed the new reg and it was running really well, but was doing this same thing over a week ago. Kinda reverted to doing the same thing again unfortunately. Id appreciate any help with it, it's so close but so far omg Thanks for reading Marni

Damn son my RB25DET has 140 comp across the board

Hey guys Help me finish my rebuild I need parts for R33 series 2 GTS-T - Nismo adjustable fuel reg - Apexi Power FC with hand controller - Engine mounts - Offside headlight, looking for an immaculate one (happy to buy pair if lenses are clear) - OEM steering wheel (red stitching) - dump pipe turbo to cat - High flow cat CASH WAITING Sydney Marni 0401385953

She's beautiful

WTB R33 Coupe Shell Hey guys WTB rolling shell R33 series 2 GTS-T coupe preferably Show me what you got Would love a factory sunroof and manual shell in KR4 (sonic silver) But not essential Cash waiting Sydney but will travel for right one Must be able to be registered in NSW Need my baby back ASAP

Hey guys I'm reshelling my R33 after it got written off Anyway I dropped the rear subframe yesterday, I knew the subframe bushings were gonna be cactus and they sure are. Anyways I'm thinking I want to go with a hard bushing kit, I like it riding stiff, it's got BC gold coilovers in the rear, I want to do the diff bushings too Been told GKtech are ok but what do u guys think? I don't want to do this again, because it's taken ages working all this shit out I think the front end is all Nolathane, don't know how bad they are yet because I haven't dropped the front yet Any input would be awesome, also is there anything else I should be doin while its out? I'm deleting hicas and just subframe and diff bushings It's a daily driven car, won't see much track Didn't realise what I was getting myself in to with this rebuild lol

Should mention it's a daily car, I like suspension stiff though (even though it nearly kills me lol) won't really get on the track much except for 1/4 passes

Hey guys, I'm reshelling my R33 after it got written off Anyway I dropped the rear subframe yesterday, I knew the subframe bushings were gonna be cactus and they sure are. Anyways I'm thinking I want to go with a hard bushing kit, I like it riding stiff, it's got BC gold coilovers in the rear, I want to do the diff bushings too Been told GKtech are ok but what do u guys think? I don't want to do this again, because it's taken ages working all this shit out I think the front end is all Nolathane, don't know how bad they are yet because I haven't dropped the front yet Any input would be awesome, also is there anything else I should be doin while its out? I'm deleting hicas and just subframe and diff bushings Didn't realise what I was getting myself in to with this rebuild lol

Yea I've got a shell to transfer on to Yay factory sunroof time

So I ended up paying $1800 for the wreckage

Yea who knows that's just what I got told I found it hard to believe too

Yea I spoke to the panel beater Apparently close to $15k just in suspension and steering damage cos they have to use brand new parts reckons they'll take $500 to $1000 for it but who knows thanks guys

Yea I'm kinda thinking the same thing around $2-$3k Another question too, if we can't agree on a price where does my car go?

Hey guys need help smashed 33 Hey guys, just looking for some advice about my R33 Series 2 GTS-T coupe A p plater nailed me head on in my street, my cars insured for $10k, looks like it's going to be written off. The damage on my car was all in the front right hand corner, the LCA snapped in half right between the 2 bolts for the castor rod, the wheel is actually fully pushed back in the guard and chopped the front tyre when my dad limped it home, the front bar, head light, both reservoirs in the corner, dented one of the intercooler pipes, the bonnet, guard, grill, didn't look like any chassis damage, just a bit of tangle to be pulled out lol Anyway the panel beater that had it quoted it up for all the body damage etc, but must've been moving the car and since then apparently the "steering" has collapsed. Im hearing the cars going to be a total loss, I was planning on reshelling it anyways but what I need to know is how much a fair price would be for me to pay for the wreckage? All the money is in the parts I've broken and I need to buy them again anyway for my new shell and my motor is needing a rebuild too thanks heaps guys

Just FYI got $4500 for the VL Thanks for all your "support"