mr_scary

I'm assuming street use only? If so then QFM HPX. Cheap, low dust, low noise. The trader GSL RallySports sells them on here. Send Greg a PM, he'll help you out.

Here is good guide: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=185697 Put in a lockbar, then you bypass the front Hicas solenoid by looping (through the power steering cooler) the rear stage of the pump. You DON't need to remove the vanes from the pump's rear section Getting rid of all the hicas gear saves ~20kgs. The light on the dash is fixed by cutting a wire on the hicas ecu. My r32 has been like this for over 2yrs with no problems.

Hi, Do you have the drivers-side rubber window seal? Thanks

What brand are the tyres? If they are cheap no names, there is your problem... 235 on a 9" rim is fine, I run Kuhmo KU31's in that size with good traction.

PM Sent about drivers window seal

The Consult connector? It's in the interior fusebox area (on the right of the steering column), from memory it's above the fuses

A cat converters job is to get rid of hydrocarbons AND carbon monoxide (+ nitrogen oxides), so yeah sounds like your current cat isn't operating at 100%. Like others have said, try and get a new OEM or compliance style cat. Are there any knowledgable exhaust shops near you that you could have a chat to?

PFC's can't adjust for different impedances, so yes you'll need to add some sort of resistor. A GTR pack will work or you could wire in a resistor in series to each injector. 10W, 10 Ohm resistors seem to work well. Just checking, but you are aware that RB26 injectors are top feed while RB25 fuel rails only accept side feed? You running a modded fuel rail?

Have you got an atmo bov? They can cause idle issues

I've got a pair of Kenwood 6x4's not being used, came with the car from japan. In good nick, can send photos. The model no is KFC-C462, am happy to post. PM me if your interested

These two sites have planty of info available http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/nissan/skyline/ http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/index.php...1&Itemid=76 The track is 1460mm front and rear.

Nah no pics, but its the top cylinder 1 stud and it's snapped off inside the head... Haven't taken the manifold off yet, but when I do odds on a few more will snap. Do you know of anyone in the Newcastle area Tristan?

Hey guys, Need some snapped exhaust studs extracted and not real confident in attacking it myself. Swapping turbos at the moment, so while the exhaust side of the engine is bare thought I'd see if I could find a mobile thread repair bloke/company to come to my place and get the studs out. I know of these existing in Sydney but haven't been able to find any in Newcastle, anyone know of any??? Appreciate any help

Yep, those pads are cooked. Funnily enough, I had HPX on mine and was my first trackday too... haha An A1RM/PMu HC+ style pad is probably the minimum you want for trackdays depending on how hard you push

What pads are in there? sounds like the same sypmtoms of when my pads overheated at the track. Pulled them out and they had gone all brittle and crumbled at the edges, the creaking was from the pads. I thought it wmight have been pistons too, but new pads fixed it...