Legumis

had the same issue. Fixed by gapping the plugs to 0.8. Also smeared a thin layer of high-temp silicone gasket-making crap around the square block part of each coilpack (theres a thread somewhere in the DIY section), since I had them out anyway.

that wagon looks VERY familiar Still in good nick for its age, I see.

sold - no more pm's please

price drop: $11,999

another price drop: $12,750 Also has 127,000km's now. make an offer - would like to have this sold soon.

also, price drop $13,000 ONO

bump

Totally agree. At this moment on carsales, there are 53 Legnums for sale. Of that only 18 are manual and of that, only 4 are not white/silver. Of those 4 only 2 have leather and of those 2, this is the only one with a sunroof. Its a bit of a regretful sale. I originally got this as a family wagon but I now don't require a family wagon and can't justify having a VR4 and an R33 (as well as the missus' Camry). I just reduced the price to $13,500 (negotiable of course) as I would like to sell this as soon as possible. Has rego until the end of Feb. RWC will be provided when required, etc.

PRICE REDUCTION! $13,750 ONO! I couldn't edit my original post.

1996 Legnum VR4 Type S 5-speed MANUAL 125,xxxkms This VR4 is a comfortable, safe and suprisingly quick drive, featuring AYC, ABS and AWD coupled to a 2.5L V6 Twin-turbo engine. It has quite a rare combination of manual transmission, electric sunroof, leather interior and a non-white paint job! Both myself AND the previous owner chose Tech///Sport to meticulously service and maintain this wagon. Has just received its 125,000km service. Engine is mechanically sound, as is the driveline and electrics (windows, mirrors, sunroof, A/C, etc) No previous accident history here or in Japan. Front bumper has very minor scratches. Interior leather is in excellent condition. Drivers seat has minor wear showing on the edge but its nothing major (no tears, etc). Extras include huge, fully retractable sunroof, tinted rear windows, coilover suspension, Blitz Nur-spec cat-back exhaust (silencer included), Heavy duty clutch, Sony CD/Aux-in headunit, rest of the car is stock. PRICE: $14,250 NEGOTIABLE Reg expires Feb 2010 Contact: Blake - 0414 325 041

1 little design flaw on this thing that I found today. Sometimes, if your boost comes on strong enough, the BB can push past the outlet nozzle. Plus, the way most of our MBC's are installed (mine is this way at least) the outlet is pointing down toward the actuator, so gravity can pull the BB out of the main chamber. What happened to me today was the BB got jammed in the outlet nozzle, keeping me stuck @ 0.65 bar regardless of how far in I wound the bolt. I'm lucky I found it tho cos if it had come out while driving, that could have been a huge boost spike. So, make sure you dial UP from low boost to high. If you go PAST your desired boost level, unwind the WHOLE thing and reassemble it, checking the BB is still loose and in the main chamber. **EDIT** Also, I didn't bother to check if anyone else in the last 80-odd pages had figured that out. If so, consider this a reiteration.

I'm not a lawyer but I'd assume that since you signed the purchase papers and had ownership of the vehicle transferred to you, legally you'd be responsible for the condition of the vehicle at the time you got nabbed. EPA peeps can't go and wrastle with previous owners, they can only go after the current owner. IF the RWC was dodgy, you could try going down that path. But I'd imagine that the onus would be on you to prove that it WAS dodgy, not on the tester to prove it wasn't. You could still take action against the previous owner, but it would have to be a separate process to any EPA action you're embroiled in. Also, I'm not sure how much recourse the buyer has for disputing private purchases (Caveat Emptor - Buyer Beware).

Was me. Tried flashing my brake lights at you but could only do that for a bit without slamming into the car ahead of me.

Weird. I have a green LED in the same spot as the ones in that picture that does the same thing; comes on when the Fog lights do. It just serves as a reminder that the foggies are on, just in case your Skyline doesn't beep-nag you to death if you forget. Rip out the cluster and follow the wires, see where they go.

so the TT doesn't have have a linear output while the boost is rising? It just hits the preselected pressure, then it flies open instantly popping the actuator? And when it does that, is it throwing all the boost at the actuator (9PSI, rather than the 5 it would take to trip the actuator)? if thats the case then there is no point using the solenoid after the controller. It would bleed too little so the pressure hitting the actuator would still be high enough to leave it open anyway. Plus, the spiking.

yeah, thats true. People have said that when they bypass the solenoid completely (without a controller) their boost was spiking to 20PSI, etc. Maybe it does operate like a bleed-valve or something. Maybe if the solenoid goes in between the controller and the actuator. I've read that the stock actuator spring is 5PSI. If so, the controller must have to stop another 4PSI to get the boost to 9PSI, or 6PSI to get the boost to 11PSI. If thats the case, and if the solenoid does have a max PSI, we could put it after the boost controller, so that the solenoid only receives a max of 5PSI anyway. Then, the solenoid can be opened to take out another ~2PSI just before the actuator. I dunno. When I get my gauge and controller, I might give it a go.

I'm wondering if its possible, in an R33 GTST, to use the boost solenoid in conjunction with a manual boost controller. From what I can tell, the boost solenoid, in a stock setup, seems to take about 2psi off BEFORE the actuator, and passes it back to the BOV plumb-back pipe. Cos I don't have a boost controller, I've done that solenoid hack of Pauls. But I did the relay/switch method so I can open this solenoid whenever I choose. The way the boost controller is setup in this thread seems have the line from the IC return, to the controller, then straight to the actuator. But the solenoid hoses are either removed or blocked. Is it possible to, say, set the boost controller at 9PSI, then run a line BEFORE the controller to the solenoid, and then feed that back into the plumb-back? The theory, at least in my head, is that the solenoid (when activate) would take a further 2PSI off the actuator line. This would mean the actuator wouldn't open until 11PSI is reached (9PSI off the boost controller + 2PSI off the solenoid). Being switchable would give a form of High-low functionality to those using the manual boost controller. Does that makes sense and would it be likely to work? Pictures speak better than I can: Stock setup Normal boost setup: Combined:

I was told that vehicles older than 10 years aren't subject to any form of statutory warranty, which kinda means you'll need to negotiate your own warranty with the dealer. The place I got my car from gave me something like a 3 month/30,000km warranty on the drive train (but not the clutch).

Is this something that people like Toshi or Dr Drift could reprogram out of the stock ECU?

I help look after the team that provides managed IT services and infrastructure to Amcor, among other companies.

I was hoping to get an ECU remap with Dr Drift once I got my boost controller and FMIC installed. Unfortunately I probably won't be able to get the FMIC put in for a while. What would people recommend so far as an interim tuning goes? Is it worth it, or even possible (without any PFC/SAFC etc), to get some sort of tuning done prior to the FMIC? Maybe I should resolve myself to biting either one of those bullets: "zero-power" or "empty-wallet" until a proper ECU solution is found.

I don't have a boost controller so I can only assume I'm running stock boost. That being said, the stock gauge reckons its running at about 9psi (needle *was* right on that middle mark between 0 and +7, now its just under it). I wondered if the ECU wasn't used to the breathing space but I haven't done anything about that (no piggybacker or reset or anything logical) and I'm pretty certain the O2 sensor is ok. It will be old, but ok and I'm basing that on the fact that the car was doing well before the new pipes were put it. Although, I'm now wondering if the mechanic perhaps had a go at cleaning the o2 sensor. Would that have an affect on the ECU at first, particularly if it was really grubby before?

Just had my exhaust completed by adding 3" dump and front pipes to the existing 3" hi-flow cat and 3" cat-back system. Problem now is that the acceleration *feels* lazy, especially 2nd gear. Even the dodgy stock boost gauge is peaking a bit lower than what it was. Granted, I haven't got any actual data to show for a loss in power, but its a feeling that I'm getting which is enough for me. Its not a flat-patch at a certain rev-range, it simply feels that the car is slower all the way through. Anyone else had this sort of experience? On the plus side, I can hear the turbo spooling up more now, which I like but that doesn't make up for when I'm getting smaller in someone else's rear-view mirror.

I don't mean to flame but would a better analogy be a comparison between getting dragged face-first through mud or face-first over tarmac? Cos it would make more sense; the tarmac MIGHT be easier, though its gonna hurt like hell and make you fugly.

Did this last week too. The mod worked so well that I put in a ECU relay and switch so I can turn it on in 2nd otherwise I don't get off the line Even then 2nd and 3rd still spin a little.