slipperywhenboosting

You have a point there Dan, if anyone want to give me one to play with, i would be more than happy to pick it up in the adelaide metropolitan area. I am still wondering if it would be useful but i might be able to borrow one off of a contact at a japanese wreckers. If I found out that it would be useful, i would buy one. Does anyone know how heavy this motor is? If anyone reads this and has done something similar before, send me a PM, i would be very interested in speaking with you.

Hey, that undercar pic i just found before reading this, must have missed that earlier. That helps a little. Cheers. We are encorporating 4ws (3 degrees on rear) on the car this year and are investigating the best way to get the car to turn and manuevour because our car sucked last year. I have been told to do it using electrically controlled solenoids, dc and/or brushless dc motors but have been struggling to find suitable (light) motors so far and thats why i am looking at the hicas system. (both for ideas and for parts) the main idea is to use the 4ws for tight corners where our speed would be less than 50km/hr because the tracks we race on have lots of them. (most tracks and roads skylines drive on dont so you may as well get rid of it. Cars such as skylines are driven everyday mostly and these hicas systems dont last that long (ie less than ten years), and this car will be driven for a few hours each weekend and highly maintained plus I am hoping to do a better job at it then nissan engineers. (But they have produced some sweet cars!!!) Thanks for the help so far but more would be awesome. (the hicas lock bar search just had replacement bars to get rid of hicas) I still want to see inside of one of them units to see the gearing on the end of the main black motor. also does anyone know how that motor is connected to the steering, im guessing just a spline but not sure.

Hey Everyone, I am implementing a system similar to the HICAS system but on a formula SAE team race car, I was wondering if anyone could take a photo of the actuators for me and the whole system at the rear. I am trying to know whether or not i could use the actuators and motors from one of the skylines or 300zx to implement on the rear wheel steering. Even better, if some one in the north eastern Adelaide area has one sitting around off of the car (since they often crap themselves) for me to look at breifly. I am also still trying to see how it actually turns the rear wheels, any info or photos will help. i have been looking for photos for a while but cant find any decent ones on the net. This is just the electrically controlled HICAS system i am interested in (not the hydraulic). Not sure which skylines they were in but they were in the 300zx from 94 to 96. Post any info on it as it may help other people that are having problem with their hicas system. Cheers

lol

hey, i have heard from a friend of a friend that he did the same thing, he said it went well and didnt cost a bucket but he broke the gts gear box and upgraded to the r33 gtst box. never had a problem since. not sure of where it was done though sorry. good luck

the car was a r32 gts it was dissapointing but i was prepared for it, its not the first time things like this have happened. like you said, you win some you lose some. mmmgtir- i am with you that he may not have been able to know every detail about the car and i had no problem with that at all. i was just unhappy that he was not reasonable with helping solve the problem or at least letting me find out what the problem was. and thanx to homer2288 i had a quick look at the other cars he had in and they looked like they were driven here from japan, i saw one decient car and it wasn't worth what he wanted.

i thought there was a section on businesses but it may have been in another site. oh well, i will tell the story. i was looking for an import when someone pointed me in the direction of yahoomotorsports. i went on the net and looked at the cars and found one that i wanted, called for the details, words were something like, "it is fairly straight and clean, its a pretty good one". wanted half deposit to ensure i wasn't screwing him around which was able to be refunded but $100 when it arrived if i didn't want it. I knew the risk i was taking so that was ok. The car arrived and went to see it, the body looked ok, panels anyway. But it was still a dodgy car on closer inspection, he said test drive it. i didn't even get over 20km/hr and i knew their was a problem! then when i went to stop the car metal on metal brakes, don't we love that noise, which meant disks had to be replaced (more money). Didn't know what the problem is though, loud clunking noise and loss of power, sounded like it spun a bearing but it went away on low revs. i asked can you get it checked out with a response of a chuckel and "It's not my job" and a consistent, "do you want it or not, yes or no?". well i wasnt risking having to spend thousands if there was something seriously wrong with it and then trying to get it through regency! so he held his word and refunded the deposit minus the $100. i later got a reply by email saying that the problem was a thrust bearing in the clutch! so he did get it checked out and if he did that in the first place when i asked i would have got the car. as a result i didn't want to touch any of his cars. I will never go through any company to import a car again! it was a waste of money and my time!!

Go for the 200, it will be better and more fun in the long run. good luck.

http://www.excite.co.jp/world/english/web/...p=JAEN&wb_dis=2 it will translate it all for you, including while you browse, i have tried doing what you are going to, i recomend you just save and buy one that is already here, it is way too risky and to be honest is a huge headf***. I dont trust any of the companies setup here in aus either!! too many bad experiences.

plumb back are the only legal bov but i know ppl have had plenty of arguments with cops over the matter, when they know a little bit about mods they are dangerous, it is much better when they know nothing coz then they just say, "it all looks ok"!!!!

it depends on whether you want it to be user friendly or not. motecs and microtecs i have found to be alright but i think motecs would be better between the two. i have heard good things about the haltechs though too, never had the experience though.

If you have cheap brake pads on it and you were driving hard you may have heated the pads up past their working temperature causing them to lose there resistance which would explain why they worked fine afterwards,(they cooled down) this happens a lot when the pads are low aswell, i dont think it would be the master cyclinder, check for leaks anywhere on the brake line or the master cylinder though.

i havent got any pics of it but i rate the ecce front bar on the r32's, you might have seen the r32 that won autosalon nz in 2003, the candy apple green one. i am not sure where you can get them from though??

yes, different clutch bearings can make different noises depending on whats wrong with it, whining it caused by uneven wear and clunking is caused by either a dodgy person installing the clutch or the car has been sitting for a long time, the clunking ones are really annoying. it sounds like someone is under your car with a spanner hitting the gear box which gets quicker when the revs increase.

this is the thrust bearing, clutch engaged=pedal not pressed, so the clutch bearing will be making a noise, even in nuetral. most r32's have this problem with the stock clutch.