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KiwiRS4T last won the day on January 15

KiwiRS4T had the most liked content!

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About KiwiRS4T

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    Rank: RB30ET

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    Auckland New Zealand

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    S1 WGNC34 Stagea RB30/25
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  1. Heater hose?
  2. Get your lever chrome plated? Put the stock knob back on?
  3. I think you'll find second GTR diffs hard to come by and brand new Nismos competitive in price. Nismos are a popular replacement for the rear diff but djr81 is pointing out that the 2 way and 1.5 way can be clunky. The one way will be fine after it is run in and has the appropriate oil in it.
  4. OP's diff is way past shimming - it has been welded up.
  5. A good engineering supplies shop will have them (maybe not Bunnings).
  6. R32GTR and R33GTR are the same: Diff specs.pdf
  7. What is a Tomei "valc" cam?
  8. Well you asked the question. I believe your car has the RB20 sized box not the RB25 big box that the GTT etc have.
  9. You may get there with your stock AFM and a good tuner can make up the difference if it is not too much but why not get a Z32 AFM and shoot for max HP? You know you will only want more...
  10. You need the big box. The Rb20 box won't hack it for long - especially if you up the power levels.
  11. What vandal welded up a mechanical LSD? Return to stock with a second hand or new OEM unit but price that against a new Nismo LSD in case its not much more than the OEM one.
  12. Depends where you are and what your best local tuner likes.
  13. There is no substitute for a decent tuner. People have made huge power with PFC, successfully dragged and circuit raced with them. Sure if you were buying an ECU today there would be many better but a good tuner can get good results with a PFC - 500hp should be a piece of cake. Of course that assumes that everything is installed correctly. And you can get datalogit for PFC.
  14. Your photo does not show your boost T so no idea if it is right. You have an aftermarket BOV which appears to be venting to atmosphere in which case that will not be good. The vacuum line to the BOV doesn't look right but I can't see where it goes.
  15. Try a compression test. Do you know why the headgasket let go? Try pulling the coil leads one at a time to see if you can isolate the noise to one cylinder or use a big screwdriver or stethoscope to see if you can trace the noise. Got a boost leak somewhere?