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KiwiRS4T last won the day on April 17 2018

KiwiRS4T had the most liked content!

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About KiwiRS4T

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    Rank: RB30ET

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    Auckland New Zealand

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    Camry V6
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  1. So before you connect up the auto trans line to the radiator use the opportunity to put new ATF right through the system.
  2. In my view waste of $1000 when the one on your car will do it. Tuners don't get back to you. If they are any good they are busy and you have to ring or preferably visit them!
  3. You can use a number of turbos that will make over 400ho on the stock manifolds e.g. Gt3076. However I would be looking at something from Hypergear - have a look at his thread. What he does like to do sometimes is weld a mount for a wastegate on to the stock exhaust manifold. Just get your tuner to have a look at some of Hypergears latest products which are often used with stock inlet and exhaust manifolds to make way in excess of 400 hp. Mind you he uses a very good tuner... e.g. 560 hp on stock manifold (mind you that's on e85, a little less on your pump gas).
  4. Sure you've got the wiring right? Check if the relay trigger is getting power from the horn button or (more likely) earthing through the horn button. If you can hear the relay clicking you most likely have a wiring error.
  5. If you can find a couple of nuts that will fit on wind them both on. hold the bottom one and tighten the top one - really tight . Then put a spanner on the bottom one and undo...supposing that you have the room to do this.
  6. There is a good guide on timing in this thread. BUT use the no 1 spark lead not the loop at the back of the engine. You will need a Nistune chip in your ecu, a better AFM and probably better injectors. I take it you have properly cleaned your idle valve and have your BOV plumbed back and not venting to atmosphere.
  7. I have SK Wayne stuff I bought as an apprentice. All in perfect condition apart from the odd piece I have lost, Sadly its not available any more.
  8. You may be right but all that chart shows is that tuner was keeping afrs safe - he may have limited power in order to do that. I would like to know if the fuel pump has been directly wired. It would be interesting to see pressure before and after the intercooler rather than just change it on spec.
  9. You need to search the Stagea section or try Google for Stagea rotors. This is what I got after a couple of minutes (no guarantees - you will have to check the specs) Rear rotor (Partstop) - DBA11003 - R32 (Probably 20e 4dr) Diameter: 267MM Thickness: 16/14MM?
  10. With that amount of stretch there is a good chance of the tyre slipping off the shoulder with subsequent instant loss of air - seen it before happening to drifters ( better if it happens on the track than on the road).
  11. R32 you can put it into 2wd or you can remove the front driveshaft. If that fixes the problem you may have broken the diff. While you have it up in the air check the front half shafts and cv joints.
  12. I have reread the thread and can find no reference to his AFRs. I have seen a lot of flow charts for Walbros and the drop off in flow with an increase in boost is dramatic with 12v or less. The stock set up (not sure how a GTR is different from my C34 Stagea) will often deliver less than 12v to the pump when running. https://www.efihardware.com/products/2065/800HP-EFI-Submersible-E85-High-Flow-Fuel-Pump-F90000267
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