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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. Quaife offer a six speed sequential with a choice of ratios and gear types: https://shop.quaife.co.uk/nissan-skyline-gtr-6-speed-sequential-gearbox
  2. Saw your message (have replied) before this post. Splitfires, a FMIC and a 3in exhaust are a good start. Also assume its RWD rather then AWD? BTW whatever you do it will be a gas guzzler compared to a Golf TDI!
  3. Looks good - let us know if it works with your car!!!
  4. Hi Gavin Would think that you could take a bit off the pistons without too much trouble. If you tried to excavate the head I would think it very hard to do without upsetting the flow characteristics and also difficult to have each combustion chamber the same.
  5. The clue is in the thread. Star from TDC and then its about 6mm per 5 deg so you should be able to work out what your marks stand for.
  6. Should have 7 marks, TDC and then 5 deg increments up to 30. Do you have TDC plus 3 marks? Could be 10, 20, 30. Compare with the picture you will find in this thread (or measure a mate's crank pulley) https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73824-adj-camshaft-pulley-new-cam-belt/ What kind of ecu do you have? Did you get any charts with the car? Some combos are super laggy and won't do much until wound up. Have a look through the RB25 turbo upgrade section in Forced Induction and see what other people are achieving with the Holset Hx35.
  7. Hi there. Depends on what you want to achieve. Why do you want to increase the clearance when you already have enough? It would be pretty hard to do by machining the head. People who want to decrease the compression ratio usually try a thicker head gasket ...but low CRs are so last century!
  8. Here is a PDF (hopefully).... Transfer case rebuild or upgrade.pdf
  9. Method attached. I haven't done it myself just saved it from another member in case I should need it one day. Transfer case rebuild or upgrade.doc
  10. They are both working fine for me. Try another browser (i am using Firefox).
  11. Pic 1 looks like a crack - or did that clean up?
  12. I fear not many members have an R35 GTR to play with and I suspect most modified VR38s are built in the big workshops. Interested to follow your progress though!!
  13. Dunno but while you have the head off ideally get it crack tested but at least put a straight edge on it.
  14. Don't worry about contacting your tuner. Get on this forum https://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/ and ask around for a tuner near you who has good knowledge of the RB engines.
  15. The maximum draw I have seen on any chart is under 30 amps - maybe there is an error in the wiring?
  16. ^^^what he said...you need the tune before you can start thrashing it...or even driving it really. Have you got bigger injectors, fuel pump, and an aftermarket ecu or nistune chip?
  17. Dunno if you have already done this but get your car up to 100 or so in third gear - downhill would be better but not necessary - and then take your foot off the gas for five to eight seconds and then floor it. Do you get a cloud of smoke out the back and if so what colour is it?
  18. I'm 12,000 km away - I can't hear your T/B from here - maybe attach a sound file or something?
  19. Since it says it is a check valve I guess you can think it is.
  20. Plazmaman is about $1700, genuine Greddy $1300 or more, Freddy about $300 or OEM replacement from wreckers under $100. I doubt you would feel the difference between any of them.
  21. The problem will not be hacking the system to defeat it but doing it in a way that is not detectable...
  22. Def OEM throttle body will be fine - so will OEM manifold. Have you already got a big turbo, injectors, FMIC, exhaust, aftermarket ecu? These all help to make the car go faster. A FFP will not.
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