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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. KiwiRS4T

    Too small. Don't need breathers. As above read the oil control thread if you have a problem (maybe start half way through):
  2. KiwiRS4T

    Where's the abuse? Road testing with very conservative driving.
  3. KiwiRS4T

    It is theoretically possible but most unlikely that the wire will break and short out in the middle of the night. It is more likely to break while you are driving it and you can do something about it. You should be more worried about Brexit and Global climate change.
  4. Advice above stands. Look for a cheap flight, pay cash on sight and drive it home.
  5. I ran 3deg neg camber on the track and it was great - definitely faster through the corners. Having easily adjustable arms the theory was to return to neg 1 for the road but since you effectively need a full alignment with each change it didn't happen. So it was cr*p on the road - skittish and chewing out tyres. If you can manage a lot of track time in a short period it might be worth doing but otherwise best to go with a street friendly set up.
  6. KiwiRS4T

    A good tune will take a total of up to 8 hours depending on the variables (adjustable cam gears etc). The tuner will want to keep it overnight to optimise the cold start and cold running. I have never heard of a tuner breaking things to create more work but then you are in England!
  7. Do you have the appropriate ECU and loom?
  8. You may find when your power level goes up that you need to directly wire the Walbro or it can run out of puff. Should be simple when you have put the battery in the boot.
  9. KiwiRS4T

    If you have a Link it makes sense to use it to control boost (with a Mac solenoid). You only need one boost setting (why would you have an unsafe one?). Limit boost with your accelerator. Yes the Neo has GTR rods. 300KW should be fun.
  10. KiwiRS4T

    Its quite normal to overfill for track use so don't panic if you drop a bit more in. But it makes sense to put about 4L in and then dip it. Assume that you will replace the oil filter every time.
  11. KiwiRS4T

    Not assuming anything about your level of knowledge so just for the record no RB ECUs are tunable. You will need as a minimum a device to interrrupt the signal to or from the ECU or a replacement chip (Nistune) or an aftermarket ECU
  12. Yep this is in the manual. Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug). In my S1 Stagea its a very small black plug taped to a loom with a single yellow wire with a green trace going to the plug and a single black wire going to the socket. Disconnect it. Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode. You need to do this every time you start the car. To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go. And if you plan to do this a lot you can put a switch in somewhere. But if you plan to do a day's drifting better to remove the front drive shaft.
  13. You can buy a single plate clutch to hold 320KW at any brake and clutch shop. I got an Exedy heavy duty clutch and its fine. Or if you want a Nismo twin plate they are available in all the main centres or buy direct from Japan
  14. KiwiRS4T

    This is true of old school injectors but not the better injectors for sale now.
  15. KiwiRS4T

    Just follow my instructions. If you think you know better why ask?
  16. KiwiRS4T

    Every time I do this (every five years or so) I have to figure it out again. pin 30 power from battery (correct) pin 85 also requires power (can take from pin 30 or the original power source) pin 87 goes to horns (correct) pin 86 goes to horn button This applies to the usual set up where the horn works by earthing through the horn button i.e. the horn button is not supplying power it is completing the circuit by earthing.
  17. KiwiRS4T

    Regardless the Bosch pumps are very noisy.
  18. KiwiRS4T

    Here's a kit ready made:
  19. KiwiRS4T

    You have already discovered that Yellow Jackets are no good. Stock Nissan or Splitfires are recommended but I believe the R8 coils will also work fine. Sorry can't help with the wiring - try googling... I am sure there are some guides somewhere. I am assuming you have some kind of aftermarket ecu or a Nistine chip
  20. KiwiRS4T

    Looks good! What kind of power is it making?
  21. Go the Garrett since you have it. Should be fine with .82 I put a 3540 on an RB30 using a .63 and wish I had gone a bigger rear. It picked up really quickly but ran out of puff too early.
  22. R32 and R33 attessas are quite different. if you want to run the R33 safely remove the front drive shaft.
  23. I am picking your car is not too hot. If your water temp gauge is not registering hot then your oil temp gauge is probably not accurate especially if it is still the stocker. Check with one of those laser guns to see how hot things really are.
  24. Siting of oil cooler is not so good. Do you have a good aftermarket oil temp gauge? What are your water temps doing? Is your engine red hot and smoking when you stop? Synthetic oil will survive high temps better But oil temp looks a little high. Moving the cooler into some fresh air should help if your gauge is in fact accurate.
  25. KiwiRS4T

    How big is your intercooler? Is hot weather a factor? How do you test for boost leak? Do you make a rig and subject it to say 20 psi and see if it can hold it?