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KiwiRS4T

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Posts posted by KiwiRS4T

    Quaife lsd for rear of AWD series 2

    in Wagoneers

    Posted

    People commonly put a Quaife in the front and a Nismo (or other) in the back. In my old S1 I just put a whole GTR rear end in it giving me the LSD and GTR brakes. Might have had to change over the attessa rings (can't remember). Mind you I got it for $1200. Prices may have gone up....

    BEE R Rev Limiter - Not working

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    1. Chuck in bin
    2. OR:
    3. Bee-R Website instructions are wrong - they know, Brooksie has told them they're sorting it
    4. Takakaira Website is also wrong - they copied the Bee-R website
    These are the correct wiring instructions

    WIRING

    Yellow Wire - 120' pin on ECU

    Green Wire - 1' pin on ECU

    Red Wire - 12V IGN pin on ECU

    Black Wire - Ground (On PowerFC's you may need to add an extra earth from this pin to the PowerFC chassis for extra earthing).

    White Wire - Attaches to the Handbrake On wire that goes to the dash if you want to activate the Launch Control feature

    ECU pin outs


    R34GTT

    Yellow - 44 or 45
    Green - 46
    Red - 67
    Black - 25

    R34GTR - I don't have an ECU pinout for this so I can't tell you, hopefully this'll be sorted fairly soon

    CONTROL BOX WIRING

    White Wire Loop - This activates the 2nd white dial which allows you to set a secondary rev limit which only comes on when the handbrake is on and is mostly used as Launch Control. Cut the loop if you don't want to use it

    Grey Wire Loop - Leave this alone, only cut for 4 cylinder cars

    Brown Loop - Leave this alone, only cut if you have a rotary engine

    CONTROL UNIT

    Red Dial - sets normal Engine Rev Limit (see below)

    White Dial - sets Handbrake/Launch Control Rev Limit (see Below)

    Yellow Dial - Sets the Gain or how big the Bang is (0 = off, 1 = very quiet & F = WW3 image.gif.f8bb9cf6deedcdd2c917f24b3f85ebc4.gif - try a middle setting and adjust to your peference)

    The 0-F settings match upto these Revs

    0 2500
    1 3000
    2 3500
    3 4000
    4 4500
    5 5000
    6 5500
    7 6000
    8 6500
    9 7000
    A 7500
    B 8000
    C 8500
    D 9000
    E 9500
    F 10000

    TESTING & PROBLEMS

    Normal Test - With the car warmed up (very important) set the Red Dial to 5, the gain at 9 and the white dial to 3 (only if using the handbrake option). Now without the handbrake on gently rev the car and at 5000rpm the car should start back-firing and the red light on the control unit should flash

    Handbrake/Launch Control Test - Put the handbrake on and gently rev the car and at 4000rpm the car should start back-firing and the red light on the control unit should flash.

    If it does then everything is set up and you can now adjust the dials to your own preference.

    Problems - Car doesn't start - swap the Yellow and Green around (shouldn't happen now the instructions are right)

    Hope that sorts everything out..........................................IanH
     
     
    • Like 1

    Chasing CAS Wires at ECU

    in Car Audio & Electrical

    Posted

    3 hours ago, mosquitocoils said:

    Bit of a strange one here but I am trying to identify which are the correct CAS wires at my ECU.

    (My S1 Stagea has the 0v300 ECU for which a pinout is basically non-existent. Some wires match with the R34 GT-T ECU but some do not, most importantly the CAS wiring for Home and Trigger. I'm trying to wire in a Haltech Elite 2000 and I'm stuck on these ones.)

    I'm a bit of a noobie when it comes to ECU wiring I will admit, but I have a lot of history with general car electrics. I thought this would be a simple case of unplugging the CAS plug, sticking a wire into it, running the other end of that wire into the cabin and checking for continuity between that and any/all of the ECU plug pins. When I did this I couldn't get any continuity readings from any of the 4 CAS pins across every ECU pin.

    I'm thinking I might have over-simplified the process and hoping someone here could help confirm a couple of things:

    - Where do the wires from the CAS actually go before going to the ECU? From the overall R33/R34 wiring diagrams it looks like it should be a straight connection. between I notice one of the colour of wires at the CAS plug do not show up at the ECU at all (peach) and the 2x thick green wires which are meant to be the CAS Home signal at the ECU are not present at the CAS plug itself either

    - Does the ECU have to be plugged in to get a continuity signal? I.E. me unplugging the harness could have interrupted the signal? Do I just pierce the back of each wire with my multimeter probe?

    - Same question for the CAS itself - does it need to be plugged in?

    Thanks

    OV300 is the most common ecu

    pin44/45 trigger1

    pin46 trigger2

    earth can be anywhere e.g.32

    • Thanks 1

    Code 11 cas Rb20e help

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    Apart from throwing a code is there anything wrong with the way the car drives? I only know of two types of CAS and yours is most likely the Hitachi one in the pic below. Without removing it you can really only check that the wiring to the plug is in good condition. Next step is to take it off (you can mark it so that it goes back in the same place but ideally you would use a timing light to reset it) and spin it by hand to see if there is any roughness in the bearing. You can buy new ones for anything up to $400 (its a Mitsubishi 23731 02U11) or get one from a wrecker. Here's one for $65    https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/listing-2721984825.htm?rsqid=c37117ac071a484394238462398ccae9-001

    Whereabouts are you located?

     

    image.png.c9f25b00f14d6b93731b16c36c13a65f.png

    400kw goal

    in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)

    Posted

    46 minutes ago, Berksgtr said:

    Thanks for the replies I just bought the car last week I know it’s an old set up I’m be holding the car for a long time and will change things gradually Ben c34 what needs work any recommendations as I don’t know which direction to go thanks

    Immediately just lose the turbo timer so it doesn't give you problems one day. For the rest just try to track down a good tuner and post up the results!

    Probably a stupid question but...

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    On 7/24/2020 at 7:19 AM, redm0th said:

    This may be a dumb question but let's say that I buy a Skyline GT-R, probably an R32 in either the RB20DET or the RB25DET. I really want to get a feel for the car N/A before getting the power boost of a turbo. Can you take the turbo off of the engine and run it N/A? If so are there any modifications that need to be done beforehand? Thank you in advance for the answers.

    Assuming you are not on a restricted licence no need to remove any turbos. Just go easy on the accelerator pedal. You will want the full power soon enough. A stock GTR is not going to frighten an experienced driver.

    Don't ever use cheap spacers (or any spacers possibly?)

    in General Automotive Discussion

    Posted

    I have used many spacers over the years without a problem.  10mm is too much for slip on spacers...they should   be bolt on.. with the right combination of spacers and hubcentric rings should be fine. They need to be done up properly before putting any weight on the wheel.

    Like Ben said what was the CB of the wheel and what were the inside and outside mm of the rings? The spacer looks like an odd diameter as well. The rings are soft - they are only made of aluminium - some are made of plastic. They are only meant to locate the wheels until you tighten them up.

    Many aftermarket wheels have 73.1CB so to go on a Nissan the rings should state 73.1 to 66.1

     

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