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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. KiwiRS4T
    Its not really possible to test the coil packs with a meter. If they are the originals they almost certainly need replacing with either genuine OEM or Splitfires. Did you gap the new plugs down to 0.8mm? Miss at 1500 can be CAS. Take it off and rotate it by hand - if bearings are gone you will feel roughness as you spin it. Pressure test the induction system for boost leaks.
  2. KiwiRS4T
    What kind of knock? Detonation or bearing knock? Um you check the timing with a timing light. See one of the tutorials on cambelt fitting if you are not sure how. Why would you not put a grommet in the hole?
  3. KiwiRS4T
    Presumably you have a nationwide auto glass supplier. Did you try them?
  4. KiwiRS4T
    Datalogit does more than the FC hand controller because it can log your parameters over a longer period. It would take you a while to get it so a good tune on a dyno would be your next move. Here is the low down: http://www.fc-datalogit.co.nz/
  5. KiwiRS4T
    Most questions have been asked before ... maybe hundreds of times so your first step is to Google the question -= which will point you to the many threads on "which clutch". Only if you can't get an answer from that should you start a new thread.
  6. KiwiRS4T
    design your own in cardboard and then get a sheet metal shop to make them up for you.
  7. KiwiRS4T
    Depends on what you use the car for - track, drag, street? What's your HP goal? Not sure why you would modify an RB26 inlet to a single T/B. Many big hp cars go with stock 26 plenum or with o/s throttle bodies.
  8. KiwiRS4T
    You haven't actually listed your mods apart from the G4 ecu. Are you still running an AFM or have you got a MAP sensor? What kind of boost controller are you using? How much boost are you running and is it the stock turbo (1.1 bar is a bit OTT for a stock turbo)? If you have the stock fuel pump you may well be dues for a new one but if you can test the fuel pressure first that would be good to know. What do your plugs look like - have you changed them recently? Gapped them down to 0.8mm?
  9. KiwiRS4T
    Oddball problem that has stopped my car from starting... At the front hose to the engine you'll see two water temp sensors. One with one wire (goes to gauge) and one with two - goes to ECU. Pull off the two wires and see if it will start. If it does you need a new sensor. Long shot but simple and quick (and free) to test.
  10. KiwiRS4T
    5mm you should be able to fix with drilling bigger holes or bending or some small "adjustment". The electrical functions will only plug in if they are options on the M35. Otherwise I guess you can wire them yourself Or you could buy a Fuga - the 450 would be pretty nice!
  11. KiwiRS4T
    Does the fuse blow when the a/c clutch is engaged? Possibly seized bearing. You may as well pull it out anyway since it is not working and 1. you can get the part number off it and someone with Nissan Fast may be able to cross reference it and/or 2. you could pull it apart and replace the bearings Don't know if this helps: http://www.rightdriveparts.com/313-ac-compressor Or maybe send a photo to these guys: http://www.buyautoparts.com/autoparts/Nissan/A-C_Compressor.html
  12. KiwiRS4T
    Stop guessing - disconnect or replace it and find out. At a minimum you need your SAFC tuned with a wide band afr meter, better still tuned on a dyno or ideally get a Nistune.
  13. KiwiRS4T
    Did you bleed it thoroughly? Jack up the front and with engine running slowly turn the wheel from left to right lock many times - at least 20 or so.
  14. KiwiRS4T
    Try an email to Rips http://www.ripsracing.com/contact-rips-racing.html He does a lot or work for customers world wide. He does aim for quality though so may not be cheap. Specify what parts you plan to supply and what work you want done and your power goals and end use for each head. It is quite possible to spend megabucks on headwork.
  15. KiwiRS4T
    +1 for adjustable cam gear. I can see now in a few years the new owner of your car posting about his timing marks not lining up!
  16. KiwiRS4T
    I just sold my Saab V6 non turbo. Always liked Saabs and got it cheap but when I got into the Saab forums the list of problems and expensive fixes cured me. Don't know about the diesels but many petrol engines had inadequate crank case ventilation and aftermarket kits were eventually produced. WMI may well help to clean up your engine but as for performance many of the turbos were small and weak and for example for petrol engines replacement with a TDO4 was often suggested.
  17. KiwiRS4T
    Is your stock gauge reading 3/4 or do you have an aftermarket gauge in which case what does it read in deg C ? Doesn't sound to me like its overheating now..
  18. KiwiRS4T
    Bonnet as well no doubt. Why not just buy an R34?
  19. KiwiRS4T
    Blit was made from 2002 to 2007. Pretty sure there is none in NZ and I would think they are pretty rare in AU as well. The engines are common Toyota items but I think you would struggle to find any other parts for them. If you were to import one I suspect resale value would be low.
  20. KiwiRS4T
    Have you read the RB30 PDF in the RB30 section of Forced Induction? You can do a cheap job for up to 500hp or you can go all the way like Dave above - depends what you want and how much money you can spend.
  21. KiwiRS4T
    Don't know about kits - I think most people just make a list of parts and then buy them. The question is what do you need and what is your reason for pulling the engine? If it is just tired you may just need rings and bearings and to re-seat the valves etc. If it were mine I would pull it apart, look for obvious damage (broken ring lands burnt valves etc) and then measure to see if components are still serviceable. If you are not sure get someone who has good knowledge to have a look. Then do you just want to get it back on the road or do you want a modest performance increase... or 400 - 500 kw (or more)? Other things to do while the engine is out - replace all the rubber hoses and check the clutch.
  22. KiwiRS4T
    First try bleeding the system properly ( with heater set to full on - check that the heater is still connected - some people just block off the hoses when the element inside the car starts leaking). Clear the blocked bleed screw. Perhaps go the whole hog and jack up the front and stick a cut off plastic bottle in the radiator filler and fill slowly as you run the engine from cold. Your cooling system could be full of rust and scale. Did you drop the bottom hose to drain it? What was the stuff like that came out? Try a reverse flush with a hose for both the block and the radiator. Does the radiator look OEM? If so it is likely due for cleaning or replacement. While at the radiator shop get it pressure tested for leaks. Get a new radiator cap.
  23. KiwiRS4T
    Live dangerously. Or take the downpipe off and take that to the shop.And don't ask for a cheap sensor and gauge. Do some reading and find what is a GOOD sensor and gauge.
  24. KiwiRS4T
    Contact Rips for bottom end bracing: http://www.ripsracing.com/ Look into reinforcing the block with grout filling. I presume this is for a drag car. I would have gone for at least 9:1 static CR but mainly you just need a massive turbo with perhaps a little NOS to get you going! What is the car? If its AWD you'll need an adapter plate (also obtainable from RIPS). Have you read the RB30 PDF in the RB30 section under "forced induction"?
  25. KiwiRS4T
    Try the parts for sale section and then post in the parts wanted section.
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