KiwiRS4T

Right so it need reseating at a minimum and replacing if it is damaged.

Not quite sure what you are doing. When you say the valve stays up do you mean it stays open or it stays closed? Is the cam bearing on the valve at the time? If an exhaust valve is leaking it could be burnt.

Have you got an R32 RB20DE? If so you will have a 4.1 diff already (4.111 non abs or 4.083 if you have abs. There is no such thing as a good ratio. There is only fit for purpose. What do you want to do that you can't already?

Best done with two people. Yes you can get one man kits but if you get someone to pump the pedal and you have a clear plastic hose going into a jar you can watch out for bubbles.

What guy ? Why can't you email him from Norway?

By all means bleed it some more - especially if someone else has changed the fluid. Have you got a M/C stopper and braided brake lines?

When I fitted my BM57 I kept the existing brake booster - there's not a lot to go wrong with them .I found a repair kit for my M/C - start with Nissan and try other suppliers of Nissan parts and also brake shops. Just found this (after you have tried everything else): http://sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?491863-Tokico-BM50-master-cylinder-repair-kit&s=d71f4a4814c11f5bb42cc4c108b2660f

So was I

In the interests of science how about you pull it out after a few laps and see what happens? (Of course it will heat up when you stop).

Not using any water? These engines are notoriously difficult to bleed. Not sure what the a/c is doing but if you are using a Freddy manifold you are probably missing the front bleed valve that is there on the stock set up. What people do is jack up the front of the car and jam a cut off coke bottle (for example) in the radiator neck and keep filling with water as the engine warms up on idle.

Don't stress about it you can change the cams later if you really want without pulling the engine.

Fan makes no difference at speed - needed for traffic and idle only.

I follow your reasoning but: in your example we are talking about a difference of 6 degrees which will take less than half a lap to make up (even the Nismo thermostats do not help in track work) and with a stock radiator cap boiling point is around 120 deg C

We are talking about track days here. Within a very short time the (any) thermostat will be wide open so I can't see the point in getting one that opens a few degrees earlier - it will certainly make no difference to running temps on the track.

Its says on the ad that they fit GTST. Have you got forks on your rear dampers? The bigger question is are they any good?

Worn universals? Centre bearing? Grab the tail shaft and see if there is excessive movement.

Worn universals? Centre bearing? Grab the tail shaft and see if there is excessive movement.

I got one from an auto electrical shop.

Take the CAS off and spin it by hand. You will feel if bearings are stuffed. I replaced one on a car that started fine but ran rough until the CAS was replaced.

Get rid of the step with some kind of grinder or dremel.

I think Redline is more likely to foam than something like Motul. Cam seals need to be installed with silicone or other sealant on the half moons to seal properly. Do you have a stock radiator? Had it cleaned out? Try replacing your stock thermostat and radiator caps with new OEM items. A pressure test may show up a leak or worst case compression test for head gasket. What was your maximum oil temperature?

Need a better description. Are you making any boost?

No-one got back to me with the "secrets" of cam timing but my local shop suggested better valve springs but you have addressed that... and I fitted an adjustable cam gear to the exhaust to be tuned on the dyno. What sized rear end do you have on your GT3582R? The only downside I see to your build is the relatively low CR at 8.5:1 but you may be able to overcome that with heaps of boost. Will not be so crisp off boost. No need to change the splitfires ( I used brand new OEM gapped to 0.8mm) - if you find they are not keeping up you can change them later. The Nistune may not hold you back so long as you have an AFM that can cope. When and if you change to a more sophisticated ECU you will probably need to replace your CAS with some other kind of trigger. Depending on the spec of your turbo I am picking you should make at least 400KW

Could be lots of things but sounds like fuel (pump?).

I have a table that says 324 x 32 for R33 and R34 GTR and 324 x 30 for V spec (can't imagine why the difference) Hmm haven't been able to find any other source that agrees so maybe they are indeed all 30mm