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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. There is no headache if you use the appropriate ecu - a neo one from a S2 stagea or an R34 one. Try to get the engine, ecu and loom as a set and then as GTSBoy says Nistune it - it has been done many times before. It doesn't matter whether its out of an auto or manual - it will work fine.
  2. My suggestion for pressure testing was for the whole induction system - not just the bovs - also the piping, intercooler - all the connectors. I take it your boost control is by an aftermarket ECU and Mac valve. When you say the solenoid is at max duty - that should mean fully closed so no boost should be getting to the actuators...are you sure you have that right? I forgot you were using IWG. Maybe you need some heavier duty actuators such as the HKS ones.
  3. Test for boost leaks by blocking off the pipe (do you have 2 into 1?) and installing a tyre valve. Apply pressure - first up to 30 psi and then 40 psi and you will see if there is a leak. What kind of wastegate and what spring are you using?
  4. Its not normal. Did happen to me (though only under full load on the Dyno) and was fixed by change to PFR7G Sure your coils are OK?
  5. You want a thermostat that opens at 82 deg C I don't believe the pump is making your engine take longer to warm up. The way to warm up your engine is to drive the car. Sitting around idling is never a good thing.
  6. Sounds like its the gauge. Have you measured the water temperature at idle with a thermometer or laser gun type gauge? What kind of thermostat did you use and did it have an opening temperature stamped on it or printed on the packaging? Have you bled the system thoroughly?
  7. Shouldn't you be using the RB25 loom? Here is another pinout chart which appears to be different from the above... http://www.gweeds.net/nismodore/RB25DET_ECR33_Pinout.pdf
  8. Stock one from the cluster is likely no good. Of course maybe you really have low oil pressure. You should measure flow from the oil feed to the turbo with ignition off.
  9. I can't believe you are even thinking of swapping back to twins just for the sound! If you want a noisy exhaust note just change the exhaust.
  10. Use the Neo engine, loom and ECU. Stagea is 4.1:1 just need to find a rear (preferably mechanical LSD) 4.1 - GTR rear end would be ideal.
  11. Cheap Laurel: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1310869693.htm or assemble yourself VH41 powered S14 http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1308252341.htm
  12. Stagea Neo into GTS4 should be fairly straightforward...just have to make sure you use the same diff ratio front and rear. The hard part seems to be finding such an engine.
  13. Clearly a normal wheel will not fit but if you are happy to have it stick up in your boot then you will be ok. Try in the parts wanted for a space saver - lots of people throw them out.
  14. Head to the section marked "Wagoneers" and have a read of the NM35 summary thread.
  15. Preferably you would first determine whether you actually need a catch can or whether its just for show. Start reading after half way in:
  16. There are better set ups but it depends on what you are trying to achieve. Instead of venting the catch can to atmosphere run a hose to the turbo inlet.
  17. You will find a wiring diagram here: http://www.apexi-usa.com/manuals/electronics/avcr_wiring.pdf If you have 2 wires going to a solenoid it doesn't matter which way round they go.
  18. There's a few firms in NZ that repair these - including the one in your pic http://www.anythingelectronic.co.nz/aenz/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_67&products_id=277 Did you get a price off them? Or http://www.electronicsnz.co.nz/
  19. $5K will not bring a stock RB25DET up to 250KW and upgrade to a big box transmission. Do not have your choices dictated to by financiers. If you are good for a loan take your time finding the right car and use another lender if necessary.
  20. There's a big how to thread in here somewhere. If you can't find it through the search function just Google. Get an adapter so you can use your stock throttle body. As you have bought it already I guess its a bit late to suggest putting the money towards a bigger turbo instead...
  21. If you are often pulling the head off consider getting a Tomei metal HG which can be re-used.
  22. I wouldn't go to oil changers - either do it yourself (there's a DIY in the stickies at the top of this section for the C34 - imagine its much the same) or go to an auto trans shop.
  23. Just go to Repco - they should be able to supply a filter kit. Dropping the trans sump will not change very much oil - you need to take off the hoses to the trans cooler to do it properly and use 10 - 12 Litres (or you can take it to someone like Kaspa Transmissions to do it for you).
  24. Dot 5 is not suitable for your car. I suggest you take it to a brake shop.
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