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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. KiwiRS4T
    Don't know if the NM35 has a separate ecu for the auto otherwise this may plug in: http://dealers.linkecu.com/N350Plus
  2. KiwiRS4T
    Brake assist is the booster (check for air leaks), not the M/C, but also check brake fluid level, pad thickness. Changing fluid would be a good start. A new GTR M/C is not cheap.
  3. KiwiRS4T
    Sounds wrong. Get one of those hand held temp gauge guns and try to see what's going on.
  4. KiwiRS4T
    Try Scotty for some new injectors that will slot into your sidemount rail scotty nm35 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/user/63525-scotty -nm35/ https://www.facebook.com/pages/Scottys-Customs
  5. KiwiRS4T
    I think the VQ motors are pretty high compression - 10 or 11:1
  6. KiwiRS4T
    Sensible decision! You will know what it cost to forge and build your engine and you won't be wanting to spend that much again anytime soon....
  7. KiwiRS4T
    Good and cheap don't really go together but in theory professionally remanufactured and tested injectors should be fine. The question is can you trust the supplier ? Are they enough of a saving to be preferred over brand new (and new technology) injectors? If you are using Nistune then Z32 AFMs are still a good upgrade (if they are brand new and genuine) but if you are upgrading the ECU then you will be going MAP sensor
  8. KiwiRS4T
    Ok well then you could pick up a few KW but given the difficulty of ensuring a constant supply of E85 you would probably want to run a dual fuel set-up which may make the whole project uneconomic.
  9. KiwiRS4T
    Then you could have got 9in wheels. Stretched tyres on a GTR just seems an abomination to me
  10. KiwiRS4T
    Mine was Neil Fraser but he has handed over to someone else at Fraser Cars. There are about 10 on the Auckland list and almost all do category 1a and 1b which is what you want. Have a read of the categories as well if you like. Certifiers: http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/CertifierList-Website.pdf categories: http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/Limitations_of_LVV_Certifier_categories.pdf
  11. KiwiRS4T
    You won't see any gains unless you install some means of tuning.
  12. KiwiRS4T
    Gidday - how about some pics? Doubt you can get NZ maps for your car - have you asked at Cockram Nissan?
  13. KiwiRS4T
    Wow racing mirrors! I had a set on my Mk 1 Zephyr about a million years ago! Tidy car - stock engine ?
  14. KiwiRS4T
    The website is down at the moment but you can ring or email. I am a happy Venom customer. NEW WEBSITE CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION CONTACT: 0402 753 146 EMAIL: [email protected]
  15. KiwiRS4T
    The only coil packs worth buying are around $600 - cheap ones are a waste of time - but first determine whether you actually need them. It is not the case that you need to change your coils every time you change the plugs but it is a good idea to thoroughly clean them and if necessary to improve the insulation with a spray or tape.
  16. KiwiRS4T
    Head porting requires skills and experience for which you must pay but I would not accept a quote for $5600 without extensively canvassing the alternatives - there must be quite a few shops (I assume you are in Aus) who do this work. Ask them the before and after CFM and see if they can name some clients - odds are there should be some top drag or race cars they can point to. For comparison Lewis Engines http://www.lewisengines.com.au/gtr-rb26-ultimate-head-package/ offer packages starting from $1800 up to $9,000 - maybe give them a ring and see what each stage involves. Before you start spending mega bucks you need to be very clear about what you want from your build and what you are going to use the car for. Also that you will never get this money back should you decide to sell at some point.
  17. KiwiRS4T
    Don't expect any massive power increase. You don't need to tune it which is just as well because you can't with a stock ecu.
  18. KiwiRS4T
    There's not much in it. A quarter mile time for the GTR is e.g. 11.6 and for the RS6 11.8 but if its the performance version of the RS6 it does it in 11.6. If I had $60k to spend on a car I would get the C5 V10 RS6 which with a chip and an exhaust will make over 700hp. The latest GTR Nismo track version would probably take the RS6 but at $308,000 I would rather put that down on a house! http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/nissan/auction-1296698614.htm
  19. KiwiRS4T
    FMIC is more efficient than sidemount - no idea about legality but since its there why don't you leave it there unless it becomes a problem - and drive in such a way that you don't attract the attention of the police.
  20. KiwiRS4T
    Just go somewhere else for the LVV cert - it shouldn't cost more for different wheels, muffler etc - its just one price for the cert (which you will need anyway). The main pain will be fitting driveshaft loops (tedious but cheaper if you do it yourself). My cert involved RB30 engine, bigger brakes, wheels, custom exhaust, different seats and probably a few more for around $500 - although it was a few years ago. Go online to see where LVV certifiers are to be found and ring around for a price (they all charge different prices).
  21. KiwiRS4T
    Or leave it as is. At 250KW you are not going to gain a lot from going to 3in. Save up til you can afford a good muffler.
  22. KiwiRS4T
    That'll help. You don't need to spend $3500 on fuel unless you are after monster HP - just new injectors and fuel pump. Stock inlet manifold will be fine. Just dump the twins for a single, get a Link or something and wind up the boost! Scroll down this page and have a look at the video: http://www.goodezilla.com/rb26dett-skyline-gtr-single-turbo-vs-twin-turbo
  23. KiwiRS4T
    OK so far the myth is busted. I have an old boat trailer which has been in the sea plenty of times so wheel nuts are pretty rusty. I applied the candle and held the lighter under the nut til my fingers burnt (about a minute). I tried the standard power bar with no effect. (BTW it was 24 deg outside) If you look at the last pic you will see pieces of the candle which shows how hard I was holding it against the nut. It is my opinion that the lighter can't generate enough heat to heat the nut/stud to the point where they will melt the candle wax. After all the axle etc will act as a heat sink. I have applied CRC to another nut and will give the lighter/candle another go (not to the nut with the CRC) tomorrow and compare it with the CRC soaked nut. I have in fact removed a wheel on the other side by soaking it in CRC and using a pipe on the end of the power bar. Thought the candle might be easier but its not looking good!
  24. KiwiRS4T
    Use Google https://www.google.co.nz/?gws_rd=ssl#q=R33+4+stud+to+5+stud+conversion
  25. KiwiRS4T
    Looks too good to be true but I will try it on an old trailer I have and report back!
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