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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. KiwiRS4T
    Do diff. You can just change brake fluid and pads in the meantime.
  2. KiwiRS4T
    Try with engine running. Bleeder ABOVE diff in the attessa/ reservoir unit not the computer controlled diff itself
  3. KiwiRS4T
    People use 100 cell cats which are probably not compliant anyway so you could just use a fake cat. You usually have enough to do on a track day without swapping out your cat.
  4. KiwiRS4T
    They do that. Ditch it and get a locally made 3in all the way item.
  5. KiwiRS4T
    Nistune would be better of the two but you can't fit it to an R33 ECU so you need to get around that and provide a trigger for the VCT. Google for how to or get on the Nistune website. Better but more expensive would be a Link. But first check with your tuner that he can tune your ecu of choice.
  6. KiwiRS4T
    Its straightforward on the bench, possible but harder on the car.
  7. KiwiRS4T
    Don't buy another OEM turbo ...they are all too old. Get Hypergear to rebuild it to similar to stock specs.
  8. KiwiRS4T
    If you are worried you can grind it back or file it.
  9. KiwiRS4T
    If you are taking the car anyway don't go looking for trouble just register it and start worrying if they take exception to anything - you could go replacing stuff for nothing or all the wrong things. Maybe ask around if there is any places more tolerant than others...
  10. KiwiRS4T
    I think most people don't bother. Just raise front of car.
  11. KiwiRS4T
    a litre per 300 is a bit much. Hope its just valve stem seals
  12. KiwiRS4T
    Don't like your chances. can you not register it as a special interest vehicle or such like? I know there are Skylines and Stageas in Europe. Maybe you are worrying too much.
  13. KiwiRS4T
    Its not the right ECU. The number you quote is for a S1 Stagea with the R33 engine. The Neo engine runs a Jecs ECU. The plug is different. You need to use the 34GTT ecu. BTW all Stageas have ABS. There is a fix on this site for if you have a warning light for the lack of Traction Control.
  14. KiwiRS4T
    Read the suspension thread (or skim it) and have a look at the brake pads thread
  15. KiwiRS4T
    You have to spend megabucks to get an N/A to make power. Learn to drive better, maintain your car, get decent tyres and suspension so you can go as fast as possible and put the rest of your money in the bank towards the day when you can get a GTT
  16. KiwiRS4T
    You could try writing proper sentences and explaining what you need help with. Why do you want to remove the PFC? Presumably it is there for a reason. Does your engine have any modifications? Does it actually run with the PFC?
  17. KiwiRS4T
    There's a couple of threads in the how to section. People just use the stock wires inside the tank.
  18. KiwiRS4T
    Sounds good. Pics when you have done it!
  19. KiwiRS4T
    If you own it you may as well install it. Google for installation instructions and how to adjust it ( I haven't got one so don't know how to).
  20. KiwiRS4T
    You can use the fitting on the turbo outlet as the boost (not vacuum) source. Is the bleed line to the BOV return hose still connected? If you have the original pipes there was a restrictor in one ( think it was the boost supply pipe). If you haven't got it don't worry for a temporary set-up... you will just make a little less boost. The supply goes to the T and the other side of the T goes to the actuator. The third leg of the T goes to the boost solenoid (doesn't matter which connection) and the other connection on the boost solenoid goes to the Bov return.
  21. KiwiRS4T
    Sure you got the fuel lines on the right way round?
  22. KiwiRS4T
    Are you going to turbo it? If not... as above just stick a cannon on the back.
  23. KiwiRS4T
    Comps are low but car could go ok for years. Leak down test may tell you more (re valve seats e.g.) Driving test for burning oil: build up some speed in third, lift off for a few seconds and then floor it. Blue smoke is oil. Oil is cheaper than a recond!!
  24. KiwiRS4T
    Of course no-one has tried them. At that price they have to be crap. It doesn't matter what your lap time is if they break and you smash up your car and possibly yourself. I have seen cheap units (D2s) on a car break after two days use. I wouldn't take the risk.
  25. KiwiRS4T
    97 is a slightly higher load rating than 95 and W is a slightly higher speed rating than V but for practical purposes they are not that different.
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