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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. KiwiRS4T
    Good work. Yes you need sealant around the moon pieces of the gasket. When you get a chance do a compression test.
  2. KiwiRS4T
    $15k looks a bit OTT Ewan's $5k is more like it...although you might want to fully balance the lot. For NZ$8K Rips wil biuld you a fully forged 2wd RB30 short block or for $13K a complete engine.
  3. KiwiRS4T
    There must be a reason someone went to the trouble of installing a microtech. Do you have non stock turbo, injectors etc? Bit hard to tell from the jumble of wires but it looks as though it has been piggybacked on to the stock ecu so should be physically simple to do but you need to make sure your engine is safe running on the stock ecu.
  4. KiwiRS4T
    If you Google there's some info mainly on the GTR UK forum.
  5. KiwiRS4T
    Rule of thumb used to be 1cc per hp so 500cc for 500hp but with modern injectors bigger than necessary injectors will still idle and perform fine so get one of the popular sizes such as 750 or 1000 depending on what you find available.
  6. KiwiRS4T
    Have you tried Nissan?
  7. KiwiRS4T
    What was the temp inside the car??
  8. KiwiRS4T
    Strangely enough Google has heaps. Just Google "baffled catch can design"
  9. KiwiRS4T
    Why a low compression engine? Your target should be 9:1 at least. R34 GTT brakes will be fine with better fluid and pads. But as above look in the brakes section.
  10. KiwiRS4T
    Your car will most likely be 4.363 (don't know if the auto is different). However if you want to drop an RB25DET in it and retain the AWD your best bet is an AWD Stagea engine - preferably a Neo - and as Duncan says bolt your existing sump on it to retain the correct gearing. Or you could keep the Stagea sump (with most likely a 4.1 diff) and find a rear diff to suit.
  11. KiwiRS4T
    Pulling the fuse is fine on R32 not for R33 as the Attessa is different. MAP sensor should be able to adjust for airflow. If the shop installing your turbos has an afr meter it shouldn't cost much just to see that afrs are within safe parameters When and if you get a tune new turbos should make more power than the old ones.
  12. KiwiRS4T
    R32 you can just pull the AWD fuse to put it into 2wd. New turbos will probably move a little less air at low revs and a bit more at high if you up the boost so if you leave the boost alone you should be OK. If you have (or get) an AFR meter you could reassure yourself that fuelling is OK but if you are running AFMs you should be near enough.
  13. KiwiRS4T
    Are you still in Japan? Would have thought there were plenty of HKS tuners there and why would a tune cost more than $1K?. Why don't you send the 2530s back and get some more GTSSs?
  14. KiwiRS4T
    There is a suspension section further down. Note that the LS is adjustable for height only - the LS+ is also adjustable for damping.
  15. KiwiRS4T
    OK so boost should not be a problem (so long as you haven't still got the original turbo). Have you had a tune in recent times? May help with performance and pick up any problems.
  16. KiwiRS4T
    Do you have a boost gauge? What kind of car/engine have you got? As suggested above "excessive" boost can cause misfiring.
  17. KiwiRS4T
    If you have read the oil control thread you haven't understood it. Read it again (just the last half if you like). The rear head "drain" is useless under any circumstances. If you Google you will find dozens of pics of engines with catch cans. I ran a hose from one cover to a "T" on the other and then one to the catch can (plus 2 sump breathers).
  18. KiwiRS4T
    Just use a tape measure. Coolers for sale will generally state their dimensions - just need to watch where the piping goes. Don't know what your car has but you may need to swap out your aircond fan (if you still have one) for a slimline one.
  19. KiwiRS4T
    Its a common problem - you should find various references to it if you Google. When it happened to me (speedo, rev counter, fuel gauge malfunctioning) I would just disconnect the battery and reconnect and they would work fine for a while. The obvious move is to swap it out for a known good one but that's easier said than done. If you are keen you could pull the cluster out and touch up all the connections with a small soldering iron. Mine just came right after a few weeks for no apparent reason.
  20. KiwiRS4T
    More likely to be the BOV. What kind did you have before? Or could be totally unrelated cause.
  21. KiwiRS4T
    Did you buy it?
  22. KiwiRS4T
    The full monty approach taken by some people who regularly track their car involves two breathers from the sump (above oil level of course) and one combined or two seperate hoses from the cam cover breathers going into a large baffled catch can - with an outlet going to the turbo intake. It is true that there are a few not so well thought out set ups around...
  23. KiwiRS4T
    You are insulting people's intelligence. Johnny was suggesting blocking off the PCV IFF you have a catch can installed.
  24. KiwiRS4T
    What size Tomei oil restrictor? I've only seen 1.5 which are a bit big. Its hard to see how you can run lines from your cam covers without crossing them. I wouldn't recommend putting your catch can above the exhaust. And you don't want to put the sump fittings on the exhaust side or use a rear head drain. Read the oil control thread again. Baffled cam covers can't do any harm.
  25. KiwiRS4T
    Its common to find knock off FFP with pinholes. To pressure test system make up a plug from anything - plumbing fittings or whatever you have to hand and put a tyre valve in the middle. Pull the outlet off the turbo and put the plug in the pipe and apply pressure with an air hose.
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