KiwiRS4T

If you are poor don't buy rubbish you don't need. Just try to save up a few grand and in the meantime do some reading along the lines of what you have been advised above. Sell the AFC Neo. Just to spell it out none of the items on your list will make your car go faster. And don't feel bad that you don't know enough - we all have to learn - some of us the hard way by spending a lot of money that could have been used more wisely - so don't be in a rush - you can't do much until you can afford a bigger turbo and the bits needed to support it so just keep researching and saving!

You make it sound so simple! But a mechanical LSD is even more simple. If one had a car with the A-LSD it would certainly be worth trying to give it a good service before giving up on it. There is a piece on how to do that at the top of this section...but it seems a little OTT to install one (instead of a mechanical LSD) when there is not one there!

Stop guessing and ask the mechanic what kind of oil is in the box.

I take it you want a 2WD system. To my knowledge there are no Stageas with manual trans and 2wd (traction control only came with 2wd). The gearbox on the manual Stagea is the same as the R33GTR and GTS-4 (five speed not 6 speed Getrag) People have converted the above boxes to 2wd use (mainly because the RB25 big box is hard to find). You will have to cut and shut to get rid of the diff in the sump and the transfer case. The only difference in the loom that I know about is that there is a signal from the TPS for the AWD but that shouldn't create any problems for you. If you get the ecu with the neo engine you should be able to run the proper Nistune board (not RB20) so that it can control the VCT

Extra 20KW would suggest its a better intercooler. How much time was spent on the tune? It would be quite different with that much more air. Don't think you would want full boost in 1st.

No I get my hose from a hose place - look for the places that make up hydraulic hoses (or an engineering supply store). The hose is expensive because it is heat resistant and oil resistant. I don't think heater hose will last. http://www.enzed.com.au/Products/HoseFittingsAustralia.aspx or http://www.pirtek.com.au/contact-us/find-your-nearest-pirtek-service-centre/ for example Track cars may run breathers but they are illegal on the road. Besides running into the intake creates a small amount of negative pressure which helps...

I think the RB25 differs from the 26 in that on the 25 the pcv does come from the cam cover. However a properly designed catch can set up means you can do away with the pcv

If you Google you will find instructions but if they are all Greek to you just remove the unit from your car especially if it is stock but for a few more psi.

Do you know where the second hose goes to? You say it does "something". Yes it catches some liquid but depending on where the outlet goes there could have been a lot more oil/water vapour pass through it. The point of the baffles is to try to get all or most of the residue to deposit in the can and not pass through as vapour.

Set it to 20deg. What's the problem with 9 - 10 psi?

Sell 4 door buy 2 door. Although in my view the 4 door looks fine.

Stock? Aftermarket cam? What's wrong with existing ones - more info required...

I have a 3.54 front diff if you want to try swapping the rears.

Limits will depend on your set up and tune but some real life results on an RB30: 330RWKW @ 14psi 375RWKW @ 18psi Would think it would be laggy on a 25

Have you tried phoning the makers?

Well if it is indeed exactly the same problem then it points to your CV joints.

That explanation doesn't make sense to me. Saying that the printed mph/kph figure is too unreliable to convert to rpm means you have given up on getting accurate data. . Given that for many purposes the ecu requires an accurate rpm signal it would seem that the tuner hasn't gone to enough trouble to make the necessary connections to get a proper rpm reading. Seeing videos of people sitting in the boot of cars trying to stop tyre slip on dynos is another reason why i think hub dynos are by far preferable.

I wish people would not put kph on their dynos instead of rev/min!!!! My power output is very similar to yours. I thought it was because of the .63 rear on the GT3540 but others with the same turbo make 350kw at 18psi so I suspect cam timing. My mechanic is very keen to change the cam and springs which may be a good idea but 350kw should be possible without that. Others have said that cam timing is the key but they haven't spelled out what they did to fix it...

Hi Scroll down to the Forced Induction section and you will find the RB30 build thread. In the first post you will find a PDF with most things that you need to know. Next go to the RB30 hybrid upgrade results and you will find you don't need a massive turbo to make 400 - 450 RWKW. Odds are you won't need a new crank ...

It will be cheaper to have 2 sets of wheels if you plan to do a lot of track time. I had a set of Bridgestone semis which were great on the track but not good on the road so I sold them.. I got a second set of wheels at relatively low cost and got second hand slicks from the NZV8 series - they get rid of them when they drop off half a second per lap but are fine for track days. If you have quality track tyres then you will just waste them driving on the street (plus they will be marginal after a few km and in the wet). If you are determined to have one set only then you have to favour street use and put up with less than optimum track times.

At 300,000 I wouldn't push it too hard. Get a boost T and run 10 psi otherwise just maintenance - coils, plugs, oil and filter. Change the oil in the auto as well if it looks dirty (many cars have never had an ATF change). [For best results post in the Stagea section] PS if car is as straight and clean as it looks and you like it you could always look for a manual conversion and build an RB30 bottom end to drop the head on when the engine finally dies).

Replace stock plenum sell FFP

Yes