KiwiRS4T

Can't see the colour of the third wire. Usually the heater wires are the same colour and go on the outside pins and the signal wire is in the middle. It won't be the cause of your inability to go over 2000 rev/min though.

Stop tech make a set where you can reverse the bits that attach the rotor to the centre to have optional full floating.

Fully floating rotors are self centering so are less affected by any hub runout, have less drag (probably more of a factor on a bike than a car) and allegedly have cooling benefits ...not speaking from experience .. I bought D2s...-

A good reason not to replace your dead turbo with another second hand one - may not be cheaper in the long (or short) run. To OP: very clean looking GTR!!

Its just a fat washer - you could probably use two normal washers if you can't get one. Exact thickness is not critical.

Welcome! Cool car... can I have it?

Not sure what the R34 trans cooler looks like but depending on the design incorrect orientation (i.e. hoses at the bottom) could lead to trapped air. Does your PS lose fluid at all? Did you keep the reservoir topped up while bleeding it? Certainly worth trying the people who rebuilt your rack (hope they are not too far away!).

3 deg front camber seems ideal for track but will be a pain on the road. Cusco camber arms are quality. Have you upgraded your rear sway bar? That should help with understeer.

Have you done a thorough bleed? (Get the front wheels off the ground and with engine off turn the steering wheel fairly slowly from lock to lock about 20 times while making sure the reservoir level is ok).

Any orders or enquiries please PM me as its hard to monitor this post - thanks!!

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You ask for help and then ignore most suggestions. Work methodically and properly eliminate each potential problem. About every third suggestion is the MAF, Did you actually get a new one? If not try this: http://skylinefiles.blogspot.co.nz/2009/07/how-to-fix-your-rb-afm.html and if that doesn't help then check the plug.

What he said^^^ They are not that rare.

See if your tuner is prepared to give a fixed price for the job. If not you may be paying for expensive new research.

Assuming its the same as my Stagea (might not be) just follow the fuel lines back from the rail to the side of the engine bay and you should (might) see a disposable filter clipped to the side. Actually here is a thread with some pics as well as a "how to " link -apparently they are a pain to do on your car:

That's a great buy! What you going to use for an ECU?

Forget the cams - you need a turbo! But short of that some well made extractors would help...

I suspect that only Nissan would have a brand new CW&P. ECR33 RB25DE (around 1994) is listed with a 3.5 diff. Or R34 GTR with 3.545 You know that the front is not an R200? I happen to have a spare (used) front GTR 3.545 diff ...

Next time just pull the outlet pipe off the turbo and pressurize from there on.

No you can rip it out

Hopefully you are now making a little more power. To maximise your gains get a boost T or EBC and wind your boost up to 10 psi.

Is your Walbro directly wired? Get your fuel pressure tested (have you replaced the fuel filter in the engine bay?). Have a look in the tank to see if pickup is still in the right place and sock on the end is in good nick.

Don't bother - spend your money on the turbo - search Hypergear's thread for great power with stock manifolds (in and out).

As I said before it will increase flow and therefore may increase power. Pity you didn't do an 80 to 120 time before so you could measure it after and see if your car is actually going faster. Get a simple boost T or something and see if you can raise your boost again - it should make more power at the same boost level or you could go to 10 or so.

Sure does. If you still want to go ahead you may as well measure everything up to see whether it is worth putting back together as is with just rings and bearings or you are looking at a complete rebuild (its 27 years old after all).