KiwiRS4T

Any difference in performance? Boost pressure is just resistance to flow - better exhaust may be giving you better flow.

No - as Andrew points out it will pull left because of the camber of the road surface - he is referring to factory castor settings not arms. That's why SK suggests giving the LH an extra 1/4 degree of castor.

Well just unplug it and see if it starts.

Get a boost gauge. Your boost may or may not be above normal - either way you need to know. And as above get a stock airbox - less noise, same power, less hassle..... and check your BOV

Pull the fuel line off and see what comes out when you turn the key. Pump could be on the way out.

Yes

Yep for street use (on my wagon) - you may want to progressively increase it from zero to see what's best for you.

Below is my set up based loosely on suggestions from SK. The Stagea has basically the same set up as GTR. ( For track only I change the front camber to neg 3deg which works great but is no good on the road) Nissan Stagea RS4T Front Before Target Caster Left positive 6 degrees Right positive 5.75 degrees Camber Left 1.5 degree negative Right 1.5 degree negative Toe in Left 1mm toe out Right 1mm toe out Rear Camber Left Negative 2.0 degrees Right Negative 2.0 degrees Toe in Left 0-1mm Right 0-1mm

Stock ecu won't like Z32 AFM. Just leave it til you get a PFC - they are pretty cheap now.

Belts

That looks like a good option. Should work well with the bolt ons you have. I would still take the sump off and check the bottom end before fitting.

That looks like a good option. Should work well with the bolt ons you have. I would still take the sump off and check the bottom end before fitting.

I just got one from the radiator wholesalers (was about $70 many years ago - probably more now.. Have you tried your local radiator shop? Or another one? If they are not very helpful you might have to pull yours out and take it to show them what you are after. So far as I know they are all the same (Stagea, Skyline, possibly lots of other cars.).

If you are not in a rush, pull your engine out and strip it down and measure it. If it doesn't need a rebore then you can just do rings and bearings etc. If it does need machining then you are looking at a rebore, new pistons etc. At this point you need to decide what ambitions you have for the car - and replacing with an RB25DET (preferably a Neo) would be the way to go. But if you want to limit your investment then fixing up the current motor will probably work out cheaper and you will have some confidence that it will last a while.

If you were in a position to pick up another engine that might be your best bet. If you have another car to get around in you could take the time to pull your motor out and fix it. But borrow a compression gauge first and see if your motor is sick. Does it smoke and use oil?

Depends if your car is stock or modified. If its stock a stock ecu should be fine. ECU may be tuned for cold weather and high octane fuel.

I think the theory with braided lines is the same as M/C stoppers: more instant reaction when you hit the brake pedal i.e. no initial flex of the bulkhead or expansion of the rubber brake lines.

Bit off topic but why on earth would you fit a 3in exhaust and restrict it with a 2in cat?

Surely the moral of this story is use OEM belts!

Start by pressure testing the inlet system. Its hard to spot some boost leaks.

Double DIN is a standard so any double DIN unit will fit.

No replies? I believe some people find that even with freight it is worthwhile to buy from https://www.tirerack.com/content/tirerack/desktop/en/homepage.html Personally I buy slicks from NZV8 teams as they sell them with lots of use left in them.

Hey that looks like good bang for buck! I presume you used a Nistune chip - did you upgrade the fuel pump as well?

Does your car start and run ok? If so can't see a need to change the CAS.

I believe you need to find the fuse - and then you can either pull it out or wire a switch to it (might be a how to somewhere).