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KiwiRS4T

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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T

  1. KiwiRS4T
    Try writing in English and measure your fuel consumption in litres per 100km.
  2. KiwiRS4T
    The main problem I see is that the coupe door is wider and therefore the pillar needs to be relocated. Secondly unless the job is done to a very high standard you could end up with a death trap in case of an accident. And I have no idea what the regulatory regime is like in Bangladesh. Four door R32s can look cool.
  3. KiwiRS4T
    I think OP is actually referring to the charcoal canister.
  4. KiwiRS4T
    Try your tach across the battery in case its a dud. if that's ok check that your cigarette lighter has power...preferably use a test light or multimeter (you can get them for less than $20) to identify a switched 12v source.
  5. KiwiRS4T
    Been using 550s for years. As above see Scotty for a quote. tell him what car you have, what engine and power requirements.
  6. KiwiRS4T
    Heaps. Over $1000 if you do the cambelt and water pump. That's why its a good idea to do it your self. You can do things one at a time to save money and learn as you go - there are tutorials for most things. Do the easy things first - like engine oil and filter, spark plugs, cleaning the coils, checking the brakes etc.
  7. KiwiRS4T
    However if the problems with your tacho are caused by say a short caused by a pinched wire somewhere then you might have to go right from the ecu Did you get a set of wiring instructions with the new tacho?
  8. KiwiRS4T
    So did you run the wire from the ECU?
  9. KiwiRS4T
    That was 2 months ago ...how did you go?
  10. KiwiRS4T
    I used a Tomei metal gasket. I have had reason to pull the head off twice and was able to re-use the gasket without drama so not expensive in the long run.
  11. KiwiRS4T
    Can't help you with the R32GTR axle length but there is a number of 6 x 1 GTR type axles of differing lengths and in some cars different lengths left and right e.g. GTR, GTS4, Stagea 260RS, and some of the ZX cars.
  12. KiwiRS4T
    Is your car for the race track only or do you drive it on the street as well? You could just leave it as is and just pull the abs fuse when you want to disable it.
  13. KiwiRS4T
    Few more psi should do it. If you have the front mount and exhaust go for it.
  14. KiwiRS4T
    Where are you? Looks like you need someone with RB knowledge to take a look.
  15. KiwiRS4T
    You'll be some 2-300KW away from needing a bigger throttle body
  16. KiwiRS4T
    If you can remove the other hose and join the two that will bypass the heater core. If the hoses can't be made to join you will have to get another piece of heater hose and a couple of straight pieces of pipe with which to join them plus a bunch of hose clips.
  17. KiwiRS4T
    There is an auto and a manual spigot bush so make sure you order the right one. Make sure you use some kind of alignment tool so that you don't damage the bush when you bolt up the gearbox if it is not dead central.
  18. KiwiRS4T
    Try tapping them round with a hammer and a drift. Or measure them and buy a spanner to fit.
  19. KiwiRS4T
    My R34 pinout says pin 5 white/black. Just had a look at the MCM video above which just happens to be on an R34 so it couldn't be easier. It appears to me that they have tapped into a black/white wire but you can just bare a bit of wire and test it without re-installing the cluster and if its right you're away. However if the problems with your tacho are caused by say a short caused by a pinched wire somewhere then you might have to go right from the ecu R34 Pinouts with wire colours.ods
  20. KiwiRS4T
    Looks interesting. I had a go at sticking with the SMIC with a variety of coolers (see below) before going return flow and finally full crossflow FMIC. I think any side mount is only going to be good for about 220KW and even then a front mount is probably better in hot climates especially. The main thing with yours is fitting it in to the available space and still being able to use the stock hose apertures. Make sure that you fill in all around the front with ducting etc so all the airflow goes through the cooler. And of course if you use any of the coolers below you will have to adapt them because the R32 is the other way round. Dimensions of side mount intercoolers (Height x width x thickness) Stagea S1 (R33) 210 x 185 x 65 Stagea S2 (R34GTT) 210 x 225 x 80 Trust 195 x 140 x 100 Nismo 200 x 230 x 100 ARC M075 WGNC34G 75 ARC M105 WGNC34G 105 ARC M075 ECR33G ? x ? x 75 ARC M105 ER34G 250 x 220 x 105
  21. KiwiRS4T
    Quite a few threads if you search "M35 turbo removal" - haven't read them but should be a good place to start.
  22. KiwiRS4T
    Um I am suggesting you T your ecu into the boost gauge line rather than the FPR line.
  23. KiwiRS4T
    If your engine is in good nick (good compressions etc) I would have thought the cheapest route would be to get the Holden turbo gear (including ecu) for your existing block. Would then just be bolt ons and probably have more torque than a 2,5 Neo motor. Sorry can't help with the workshop - all my suggestions would be a few thousand km away!
  24. KiwiRS4T
    Ideally you want spring pressure close to max so 19psi spring would be better.
  25. KiwiRS4T
    How big is your exhaust? Possibly collapsed CAT? Can you check pressure or temps pre and after intercooler? Just saw you have a Venom cat so probably not that. Same tuner as February?
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