Wacky Dee

presumably due to a leak somewhere .. and well "I" can't do crap (wouldn't know how) which is why I took it to a popular mec. shop .. who then gave the pump to a 'specialist' who rebuilt it.

all the belts were changed .. its the pump that's squealing due to cavitation (fromation of small air bubbles in the liquid)

took my r34 to a trusted mechanic to take a look at the powesteering as its been making squealing noises when the engine is cold. They noticed the fluid was contaminated or something (top half was one color and bottom another) so they flushed the system and refilled with new fluid .. still cavitating and squealing. They then took it to a power steering specialist who apparently 'rebuilt' the pump for $220 so according to him it should be as new. Nope. Still the same. They took it back to the same place again .. thei 'rebuilt' it again apparently and new inlet/outlet hoses were also installed. They found some internal fractures which were sealed and pump installed again with new hoses. So I get a call ..car's ready and the pump's not squealing anymore. I get there, just about to leave, car starts and it starts squealing immediately. The car was meant to be at the mechanics for a day or 2 for a regular service plus to try and fix the pump .. it's now been there for 8 days and it's going to cost me a small fortune and it's STILL not fixed. They're taking the whole car to the power steering 'specialist' place and will leave it with them to fix it .. because they're at their wits end. Has anyone experienced similar issues with the powersteering pump? I'm afraid I will probably get a call tommorow "car's done" again because the 'specialist' won't realize the squealing only happens when the engine is cold. So before I start ripping out the little hair I've got left, anyone got any tips ? From what I've been told a new pump would cost $800 and would take 2-3 weeks to get here from Japan. That's on top of probably several hundred dollars I'm gonna have to pay already for all the hours the shop's spent on trying to fix it ... bloody ridiculous. What's my best option? The steering works fine and the squealing stops after engine warms up ... so it's not a CRITICAL issue but as I'm gonna pay through my nose for all the time it's been at the shop already, I want to make sure it's sorted out.

just spoke to mechanic and he said he listened to the engine with a stetoscope (or whatever the spelling) and reckons it's near the cam inside the head .. so most likely the lifters. He said he looked at the manifold gaskets and it wasn't that .. Ah well. Does anyone know how much it would cost approximately to repair r34 (gtt) lifter(s) incl. parts and labour? I'm just looking for a ballpark figure ..

just read in another thread about this lifter additive how it cleaned out all the crap from some poor chap's engine that it started to sound like a tractor due to all the lifters becoming noisy. Might give it a miss then

Thanks Terry I'll give that valve lifter additive a go if the mechanic can't find the problem ... Does this stuff have any negative effect on the oil? EDIT: never mind, found my answer ..seems safe and apparently doesn't affect oil viscosity (http://www.autobarn.com.au/products/10/70/3303550)

someone above mentioned (as did my mechanic) that it's actually thicker oil that would fix the noise if it's the lifters, not thinner oil .. who's right? My mechanic even suggested 20W50

My recommendation ... buy one with a bodykit that you like already on it. R34 bodykits are hard to find and exxy ($2k-3k fitted and painted).

R34 GTT with 3" TB exhaust, 11psi and Bp Ultimate .. gets me 300Kms from 50l. I always fill her up when the empty light comes on which is with 15l left in the tank. So I guess FULL tank would be around 400Kms if I drove until completely empty. All in all the economy seems to be 16l/100Kms which isn't too impressive but not too shabby considering 1) it's all city driving 2) I can't help my lead foot a lot of the times 3) it's a friggin sports car that I love driving

Thanks for all the tips .. I'll tell me mechanic to take a look at each. The oil's already been changed to 10W40 and the noise is apparently still there so I'll have em take a look at the manifold gasket next. Cheers

Have had the car for a couple of months now and after about a month is started making this tapping noise when the engine is cold .. the tapping gets faster when you press the gas pedal and it goes away completely after about 5 minutes when the engine warms up. Took it for an oil change and the mechanic says (car still with them for other issues) it's still making the tapping noise even after the oil change ... so what could it be? He reckons lifters .. but I thought a new oil should fix that up if it's lifters (new oil is 10W40) could it be anything more serious than the lifters? There's no noise when the engine warms up ..only for the first 5 mins when engine has cooled down. Cheers

from what I've been told by my mechanic whome I trust (unigroup) 10W40 is the right viscosity for a R34 GTT with 64k ... which is pretty similar to your car. They reckon all the brand name fuss is a lot of nonsense and if you change the oil every 5000k it really doesn't matter which brand .. they use 'Hi-tec' which I believe is a local brand.

I'm still waiting for some confirmation of my order ... paid more than 2 weeks ago now

I reckon the clear fronts look great due to your fmic and piping being silver/chrome. I bought some AA batteries for my camera to take some pics of my smoked fronts but the camera is farked it seems .. when in shooting mode there's noise all over the screen Sorry mate .. I'll see if I can borrow a mates' camera.

SAFC to fix the AFRs or come down to Sydney and have Toshi remap your stock ECU (you can find him on the forums here). You're running very rich at the moment .. safe AFRs are 11.5:1 at the top end and you're at less than 10:1 I'm surprised you're making that much power with a stocker that's running so rich ... I was making around 150rwkw with a stocker + turbo back exhaust, now at 190rwkw with turbo back and boost controller at 11psi and Toshi's ecu remap. If you're going to get a boost controller, get it before any tune so that the ecu can be tuned with the new higher boost ... otherwise you'll pay twice.

hey guys, I paid for my package 10 days ago any chance of getting an ETA of some sort ? Cheers

I have an R34 GTT (1998 model) with 63k on the clock and was doing a bit of research on which oil to get and got the impression that 5w30 would be the right viscosity... But then I just spoke to the garage where I take my car for most of the servicing (Unigroup) and they said they'd use 10W40 and that 5W30 is too thin and doesn't hold the oil pressure too well. And he said to ignore what most people are saying and that as long as I change the oil every 5000km/6months it wouldn't really matter which oil I use. I'm a bit confused ... 10W40 sound right for a 10yo GTT ? In winter? I think he even mentioned Motul 4100 How about Motul 8100 Xcess (5W40 100% synthetic) ? Edit: oh yeah this is a daily driver (mostly city) with no track/racing.

I reckon Doski's GTT looks the best out of all the ones I've seen on SAU .. pure sexx0r. As for powerplay .. I can't believe you're still waiting on them after 14 months. I would have gone balistic if they hadn't delivered within a month if I'd paid upfront. What do you need a bonnet for when you got this ztune one anyway? Just ask them for a refund .. they are by law obliged to deliver it in a timely manner. 14 months is beyond ridiculous. I'd demand a full refund PLUS interest.

he he, ta mate .. but I still feel like I could (or should) have atleast tried to grab her rego before she made a run for it.. atleast the poor sod could have claimed the damages from his insurance without paying excess fees (if he had insurance that is). Ah well.

Heya Terry I've noticed that about the ztune skirts myself .. theyh seem to be approx. 1cm short ie. small gap between front wheels and skirts. I've noticed this on every one of the cars that had Josh's ztune skirts and I keep wondering if they're meant to be like that or what?? I find it hard to believe that he'd made a mould 1cm short. Maybe it's like that so you have space to fit in some sort of mudflaps/pods at the front? I have a GTT and have those pods around each wheel (look like small plastic mudflaps) and I reckon it'd fit the gap. Maybe thats what its for? Gonna have to ask Josh next time I see him. Saw a Vspec R34 the other day at the drift comp, was a real headturner ... had Josh's ztune skirts and pods on it.

Just the other night I was coming out of a club walking towards my car when i see this shitbox commo reverse into the car behind it ... some scared shitless chick driver comes out for a sec, realizes what she did, gets back in and starts driving off... with the other car's WHOLE frontbar attached to her towing bar and scraping along the road. I thought for a sec about following her and atleast getting her plates and leaving a note for the owner of the damaged car, but couldn't be farked. Still feel bad I haven't done it. The only mild consolation for the other driver was that the car seemed liked a shitbox too, but still... people like that make me sick.

sent PM 7 days ago with a reminder 4 days ago .. just needed to confirm the order amount as I'm not getting everything from the kit. This is pretty fricken appalling service I must say. If it takes more than 7 days just to get a "this is how much you need to pay ..etc" how long does it take to receive the item? I don't want to pay close to $1500 to then have to chase it up for weeks like someone's doing me a favour taking $1500 off me. Re installation costs ... I've been quoted $550-650 by the 2 NSW places (heasmans and east coast) so a fair bit pricier than the vic joint.

I think crappy or bald tyres are a much more likely cause thanks coilpacks?? the weather is pretty shit this time of year so it's not unusual to get wheels to spin if it's wet and/or the tyres are crap as previously mentioned.

I recently bought a R34 GTR powerfc from japanese yahoo auctions (by mistake as my car is a GTT) using importmonster.com.au The total cost was $270 so it might be worthwhile checking there. Oh yeah I dont have it anymore .. decided to have someone else take it as it's no good for my car.

yeah same controller it's just that I've switched mine to PSI mode. Speaking of which, 0.65 bar is the equivalent of 9.4psi which is what I also have. But I don't want to run 12psi as it's way too risky with the stock turbo... so I'll need to tweak it again.