nizmonut

Palmy north R32 GTR, R32 GTS4, R33 Gts25t, Rb30de powered hilux, Sr20det 4wd P10 primera,

not the metallic graphit one that comes on teh us market Z, but the limited production nismo edition, some gut want s to paint his car the same colour.

No 1 statute of limitations says that the only matter that can be brought before a court after 7 years is a capital punishment case, I.E . murder. No2 under the tax and income laws no person(individual) or persons representing an entity (I.E. company or corporation) is oblidged to keep financial records past a period of seven years. this includes purchases and payments to government departments. that is why your bank has no record older than seven years. i think once you get a lawyer on to it they will back off for the simple reason the expect the person (you) to be dumb and stupid and pay it anyway because the fat broad minded female behind the desk at the SDRO cant be f**ked putting down her doughnuts to go press the search functions on there records computer. oh and challenge them to produce the original fine. bet you they cant because they would have disposed of seven years after it was issued too. just like ya bank disposes of your records after seven years.

RB25 AFM, R33 are used on the vg25 and vg30 which you'll find in a maxima, a fwd cefiro, 300zx etc etc etc, two of these are three litre engines and have no issues with reading upto 600 hp aslong as you leave enough distance in piping between the afm and the turbo to stop turbulence. the other trick is to grab the throttle body of a vt to vy commodore with the map sensor and do away with the afm all together

change the ignitor pack too, unless its a S2

the compression on the 26 head is too low for a rb30 block without turbo charging it, thats why it would only make 150 odd rwkw. the rb25de vvt head on the other hand makes a staggering 267kw at 8700 rpm with raised compression, cams and uprated injectors and a 3l v6 nissan maxima afm.. they make even more too when you custom the intake manifold and put triple downdraft carbies on it, its just a bitch to adjust all three equally. but really if youve gone to the trouble of buying a rb30 block and a rb26 head you might aswell stick a big fat hair dryer on the side of it and call it 400 rwkw. nissan did bring out a factory rb30de in japan in the late eightes for some odd ball racing class they had over there, but there rearer than the autech rb26de.

sounds like fueling issues. change the fuel filter. and gap the plugs to .8 ml

The Auxaliry air control valve is there for the purpose of adjusting the idle under load of air conditioning or alternator load, it adjusts idle up to 500 rpm, the ecu also uses it to determine engine revs at idle whilst warming up, however it is not critical to the performance of the engine as it becomes redundant once rpm reaches 1500.

sacrifice your heater hose at the back of the block and plumb it back to the radiator. creates enough flow. but really, my gts4 was running enough hp to show a mack truck and it never crossed our minds. short of pulling the thermostat that is.

lamens terms...the lighter the car, the bigger the skid marks.

gives out panadol.

thermostat, it is the bain of most cooling issues in a rb

id say the spring in the waste gate actuator is either weak, weakend or broke. the idea is that most guys pinhole the waste gate actuator housing to deliberatley leak boost as to create a higher boost pressure. and yes your better running the actuator by itself, after all it in it's self is adjustable, let alone having the boost controller aswell. note the maximum boost you can create is up to the amount of pressure the spring in the actator can push, if maximum adjustment is only 15 psi , dialling up 18 psi on ya boost controller wont do jack.

in that case you want to go 3l v6 maxima throttle body or similar. eg 300 zx

hmmm i think the easiest way to describe the gts4 in my shed is what is in it rather than what isnt in it, interior wise, a seat 2 seat rails 3 pedals a handbrake a gear lever a steering column and wheel 1 seat belt. the dash board has been hollowed out to a shell of it's former self leaving only the things required by law, i e the fan to the windscreen, indicator stalk, light switch, hazard light switch, window wiper switch and gauges. oh and a horn. doesnt have a roll cage yet under the car all components related to the suspension and drive line, all plastic and anything bolted to the chassis that doesnt help performance is gone. the bumpers are fibre glass skins with no subframes, the bonnet is the same, along with the gaurds and side skirts, im currently saving for fibreglass rear qauters and may skin the doors if i can find sombody who can do them. so far it has gone from a curb wieght of 1420 kgs down to 1158 kgs. i think if this was done to a gtst it would be even lighter not having the 4wd system.

280 hp is 208 kw, give or take the variance in the dyno and there pretty much the same out put. you two chould go to the strip, be a close race.

swap the spark plug with number 2 or 5 i had issues with water getting down ontop of the engine near the fire wall, i have no idea how. when you pull the spark plug out if there are burn marks or a white crystal type powder building up around the middle of the spark plug id say the creamic has got hair line cracks and is earthing out to the head before the current gets to the electrode, the reason i say 2 or 5 is because if you swap a dud spark plug with 3, 4, or 1 the miss sequence wont change, where as swapping it with 5 you will notice immediatley the change in the way the engine idles. if the spark plug fires fine on 5 you have a dud coil pack, if its missing on 5 the sparkplug is buggered. dont have to go anything special, 5 dollar NGK's with a .8 ml gap is fine. gapping the plugs to .8 is a easy fix for weak firing coil packs that are deteriating, this is a sign that the igniter pack is failing aswell, this can be replaced with an ignitor from Triton for a v6 maxima or 2.5 v6 cefiro which are half the price of the rb igniter packs. how ever it is advised to get new coils aswell or change to a wasted spark ignition system.

when you put a new belt on you want all the slack on the same side as the tensioner not the idler pulley. ensure the belt between the crank and the cam pulley on the idler side is tight as you can get it by hand...... that way when you crank up the tensioner the pulleys dont move

this thread is redundant 100 octane is standard factory issue. skylines from factory are tuned for 100 octane cause in japan thats the lowest octane they have....exept diesel obviously. stick 98 in the tank and alter the timing the timing a couple of degrees.

the gts4 manual and gtr ratios are the same, it is the differntials that have a different ratio, with a rb26 set up in a gts 4 the gtr will have a higher top speed than if you were using gts4 diffs, no need to worry about the ratio of the front diff if you decide to use the gtr one that is still bolted to the block as the center diff is viscous and will let slip accordingly...however all that is useless info anyway as both boxes have the same weak spots..... it is worth while getting the full p/s set up from the gtr as well just swap them over lines and all, less mess and the lines all follow the same mounting points on the chassis as the front half of the hnr32 shell is identical to the front half of the bnr shell, as nismoid has stated, change out the turbo's, what you need to complete the swap is engine, dump pipes, intercooler piping, loom ecu ,abs heat shield, p/s set up from gtr, the trick to getting the motor to sit properly in the hnr32 shell is to use engine mounts from early rb25e or laurel mounts, it will clear the subframe and still allow the bonnet to shut if you ever decide to go 30 block

that is correct, the ecu has a memory for the afm, o2, tps, and cas, if any of these are changed while the ecu is plugged in it will not attempt to alter any settings. un plug the o2 sensor, then unhook the battery, stand on the brake pedal for a good minute or with the key in the ON position so as to discharge any electrical current that is still in the system(works similar to putting a security coded car stereo in the freezer over night(loses it memory). plug the o2 sensor back in then the battery, the ecu will relearn all the signals and ignition timing and frequencey, it will run a little rough for the first 5 minutes while the ecu remaps itself, the ecu has a base map already programmed however the map is intervalled by 500 rpm and the ecu fills in the rest.

you still need to pull the rack to pieces to fix the seal, the lock out bar works wonders for the high speed pradictability of the car, when the gtr(and gts4's) break traction and slide the computer counters it by turning the wheels in the same direction the car is sliding to gain traction back, the down fall to this is that the earlier gtr's dont react that swiftly so usually the driver has corrected the oversteer before the ecu has, for example the car slides right, the driver counter steersright aswell, which tells the ecu to steer the back wheels to the left, this gives you that whiplash effect. with the lock bar in, if the rear slides and the driver oversteers to correct it, the car wont whip lash, it will slide untill the back wheels get traction or you can keep ot pinned and drift the corner.

take your cam cover off, start her up give her a free rev to 7000 rpm then snap the throttle shut, then watch the slack come on the cambelt, i lost 15 degrees of timing in a matter of minutes, cause the tensioner wasnt done up tight enough.

name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="<A href=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>&"> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="<A href=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350" />here in nz satchi and satchi are a advertising company and have always done toyota new zealand proud, heres the latest one

1985 toyota hilux, fell asleep one day on the way home from work, ploughed into a motorbike i was doing around 60, he was doing 50, all i got was a scratch on the number plate while his bike was parked under my front wheels, he landed in the well side, apart from a saw ass ,he was ok.