nizmonut

hmmm australian authority's are so up themselves, at least here you can shove a twin cam head in a vl commodore and the W.O.F shop wont even batter an eyelid. ....N.Z. by the way:P the only regulation to cc vs power over factory is no more than 30% increase in power or capacity over standard. anything over that you have to have it certified. Thats why here replacing any rb block with a 3. litre isnt an issue, just turbo charging they require a cert immediatley after the mod is done. that is strictley for the rb powered vehcials. as for the engine number, it doesnt have to match the paper work or the spec plate on the fire wall aslong as it doesnt come back stolen when they do a check. as for 300kph you'll have to wait till the next top speed competition we have here as im not going to do that on a open road even if the car was capable of it and i didnt really want my drivers licence anymore.

you havent stated what rb you have so heres a generic description. in rb30's it is important to make sure the system is bleed properly as the head sits higher than the radiator. take for example the 1987 holden commodore with the rb30 single cam, they made two flaws when making that car, the aforemention hieght of the radiator, and the location of the overflow bottle. this is the reason alot of them had cracked heads yet the rb20 models didnt. theres a T piece with a rubber cap on the heater hose against the fire wall, this is the highest point of any rb's water cooling system, on the 20's and 25's there is the obvious 10 ml bolt on the top of the plenum at the front, this is the next highest bleed point, undo these when cold and start the engine the pump will pressurize the system forcing the air out the top. just check under the oil cap to make sure theres no mayo' always pays to check you havent got a crack in the head.

garrett 3582R highbrid ball bearing steel wheeled small exhaust large intake good for low down power, heaps of flow over the exhaust propeller sooner than a t4 etc

it's compression ratio is 8.4 to 1 standard gtr is 8.5 to 1 25det is 9.5 to one, everything is standard affair, ive used a multilayer steel head gasket from hks along with z32 afm and chip. this is pretty much the only aftermarket things on it engine wise. yes it is low torque but it's only running 8 psi too. so theres plenty of room for improvement. 388 at the wheels, some dude on the uk forum worked it out at around 25% loss through the gtr drive train so at the fly close to 480. ft pound.

The last time i looked i didnt see any rb20's pulling 300kms an hour. or doing 4wd doughnuts and i dont think any officer from the nation vehical registery center is going to crawl under your car to check what block your running....even the guy at the garage doing the 6 monthly saftey check wouldnt know what the f**k block was sitting under your twin cam head unless you tell him as for your rb30e block i used one for my conversion, put it straight in at 300,000 plus kilometers, pulled it out 120,000 kms later and still had hone marks down the bore...to replace an oil seal of all things that same block now has a rb26det set up bolted to it and on thursday pulled 401 horse at all four wheels and 388 foot pounds of torque at all four wheels. using a na rb30 block in a turbo set up isnt a problem, here's the proof http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4pm7OvTqco

this is running a big single on a rb30 block gtr head.

i think i posted this somewhere else, but just for the record. i used the r33 rb25de head with the vvt. i had the engine rebuilder weld up the oil gallery on the front right hand corner of the head(looking at it as if it were in the car(drivers side)). this is because it overlaps with the rb30 blocks front right water jacket outlet. once this was done we took the intake cam pulley off and you can see the oil gallery running up to the horizontal gallery that feeds the hydraulic lifters. drill a 11 ml hole and tap it with a .75 ml thread gap and fit a brass 1/4 inch fitting into it on a 80 degree angle from front(almost facing sideways) this will allow you to refit the cam cover's with clearance for hose and hose clamp. secondly get a brass T fitting to and screw it into the block where the oil pressure sender unit is. fit the sender unit back to one end and run a 1/4 high pressure piece of fuel line from the T piece up to the fitting on the head. this worked for me and never had any issues with it. ive heard of people replacing the solenoid valve on the side of the head and doing via there aswell but this elemenates the ecu control and the hydraulic lifters are driven purely on oil pressure. doing it this way the rb30 tended to stall some times or idle rough when you cam back down to idle. this is due to the lifters still being open a little longer, keeping the solenoid will allow the ecu to control the oil flow like it normally would if it were a R33 rb25 block. Rb30 25de head, garret 35/40

$5.00 Bosch iridium's, .5 ml gap, rb3026dett, race fuel 401.88 hp 388.53 ft pnds torque. @6400 rpm

youll be right, i lost the entire end on my no 4 cylinder spark plug, electrode an all. never hurt it, never smoked, rattled.... turbo impellers are nothin to a rb. lol

one of my mates from our local car club came around today complaining his 92 gts4 had a rattle, thinking it may have been a bearing on it's way out i popped the hood to have a listen. strange thing is, it is or would appear to be coming from the plenum chamber, or the sound is resonating to the plenum chamber from the runners/valve train? has anyone encountered this before?

all those in favour say aye.

hmmm r32 skylines the actuator's pressure feed comes from the housing just before the 3 bolt flange into the intercooler piping. the hose is around 150ml's long......this is pre-intercooler. not ideal in most situations. because as soon as the turbo hits 10 psi it opens the actuator....giving you probably 7 or 8 psi at the throttle body once the air had travelled via the intercooler. the ideal way would be to run a hose from the just before the manifold /plenum chamber i.e J pipe (idle control feed) down to the actuator. and plug the hose from the turbo housing. this way the wastegate wont open till 10psi is reached at the manifold.

hmmm no plugs are different injectors, tps, afm etc etc. i just put the rb25 block and head, manifolds and changed all the sensors over , fuel rail and injectors etc to keep the 32 rb20 ones, then got the ecu remapped and running then starting changing injectors etc

you'll note on the shaft of the cas(mitzi) there is a hardend steel pin that holds the keyway on, punch these out and swap them, ensure you dismantle it so not to shock the components before punching the pin out.

10 bucks says your coils are on there way out

with the exeption of the gtr, all r32 i'e gtst gts4 turbo cefiro and turbo laurel actuators are all set a 7 psi from factory, this is assuming it is directly connected to the turbo. you will need to A bend the actuator arm B (if you have a threaded rod) adjust the length of the rod C install a boost controller D pin hole the actuator housing E change it to a aftermarket unit F T piece the actuator hose(bleeding off the boost to the actuator taking longer to open the wastegate. i put a R33 turbo and actuator on my r32, boosting 11-12 psi from my expeirence the 33 is a better option.

got some feeler gauges, ????

why raise the compression.....just stick a big turbo on it and go for 10 second qautermiles, young fella here n nz has done exactley that. twin cam turbo head on his auto vl commie, changed the loom n ecu, fitted and front mount, stucks sum 265's on the rear, wound the boost up to 14 psi and ran a 10.4 on his first run. my first conversion was a rb30/R33 25de striaght swap, the only new thing i bought was a head gasket and head bolts ...the only work done to it was to face it and weld up the oil gallery to the hydralic lifters. stuck it straight on, bolted on a idleler pulley for the cam belt and reassembled it. i then drilled and tapped a qauter inch fitting into the intake side of the head back into the gallery that had been welded up, fitted a brass t piece behind the oil pressure sensor and connected the two with a hose. ran 13.2 exactly as described above, no extra go fast bits or engine work done. the way to do it would be use your et block a na twin cam head and then turbo it.

dont mean to say i told you so, a member of our car club has had his Bee*R in a week and its now in the work shop.

what happens in this situation is not dissimilar to normal detonation, the fuel sits in the cylinder because it has not combusted, the engine comes back down off the limiter and ignition is given back to the spark plugs, the compression stroke comes up the spark plug ignites, fuel and air burn, but now you have excess fuel sitting ontop of your piston and once that is ignited you have your self a instant hot spot, on the next compression stroke if that hot spot is still there your combusting fuel while the piston is still travelling upward in its stroke. There are two ways to go about this. set the Bee*R limiter to the same limit your ecu has so both spark and fuel are cut at the same time, or let the factory limiter do it's thing, its there for a reason, the manufacturer put it there for a reason . but it comes down to your right foot, the driver, not the machine or the electronics running it, you want to push your car then by all means do so, but make sure you have money stashed away for when you bend a conrod. cause they arent cheap.

rb30 block garrett 35/40's start spooling at 2000 and running 14 psi at 3100. Hks Catalogue. lol

check the mechanical timing, i found once on mine after booting it the cam belt skipped a few teeth and wouldnt climb over 2500. due to the exhaust suddenley been so retarded.

as i was saying above, the engine had only done 1200 kms from its last rebuild. the limiter is the worst thing in the world for any engine, factory limiter cut's fuel, the Bee*R limiter cuts spark and because it can be set below factory limiter it keeps pumping in the fuel and the following picture is what you end up with. a 4500 bill from the likes of me the engine rebuilder who's laughing all the way to the bank because people wont listen to common sense.

dont go paying pounds sterling. go to your local auto parts store. buy the coil pack for a 3.8 litre v6 holden commodore engine 1 meter of 8 gauge wire 3 meters of 16 gauge wire one diode with the capabilty to with stand 12 volt 100 amp's (ask the guy at dick smith's) 6 spade connectors to plug into the holden commodore coil pack 6 1 meter long bosch ignition leads 6 Ngk spark plugs with a .8 ml gap then go to your local auto electrician and tell em you want a wasted spark system, and need the car back by lunch time.....

i just finished building an engine to replace one that had been wired with a Bee*R limiter. all its conrods were bent the bores scored and had almost three mls of carbon build up on the valves. the engine is still on the floor of the workshop in pieces. anyone want a boat anchor????