Lived4eva

$550?

I have asked for more info about the calipers. As best I can tell from the photos they looks to be Forged Superlite calipers. These calipers are all 4 pot calipers, take a 330mm rotor and can range in piston area quite a bit. http://www.wilwood.com/CaliperList.aspx?subname=Forged Superlite://http://www.wilwood.com/CaliperList....orged Superlite The calipers with the 1.62" pistons would have a piston surface area similar to Brembo f40 calipers (53cm squared). Anything above that would put out the bias of the brakes by quite a bit. The small 1.38" calipers would probably have a piston area too small (38.5cm squared). This is just best guess as far as I can tell. I will update once I am given some definite info.

I have purchased other items from this seller and had no hassle at all so I have no reason to doubt them. Now is also looking to be a good time to buy as our dollar is pretty good against the pound. Would be interesting to see how they compared to the GTR brembos.

I was digging around on the UK ebay and found a decent looking big brake kit. Has anybody used this kit or similar calipers before. For that price delivered they are cheaper than G4/D2 brakes. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Great to know once again thanks for the info .

Thanks for the replies much appreciated but like always one question leads to another. Do you ream/hone them to the service manual specs? I didn't find anything regarding this on the supertech site. Thanks

Hey all, Looking at running 1mm oversized valves and I realise this can be an issue if you are running greater lift. I have looked at a number of forged pistons and the only off the shelf pistons I can find that specify can be run with 1mm oversized valves is CP pistons. Having said that from the images they don't appear to be scaloped. How much lift and cam timing can you run before 1mm oversized valves makes contact with the piston in a standard engine? Also which pistons are suitable to use with oversized valves. Thanks

Hey all, I am changing over my valve guides to supertech bronze valve guides. Does anybody know if these guides have to be reamed? On the packaging it says they do however the machine shop I talked to said they almost never ream a guide that is for a specific valve only if it is a custom fit. The packaging saying it needs reaming. Is this only to cover supertech incase there is a defect in one of their guides and it isn't a consistant size? Supertech part numbers GDE-NSR6-I on the intake and GDE-NSR7-E on the exhaust. I am going to get the machine shop to check the clearance anyway but just wanted to find out what is the go as I don't want to get charged if it does not need to be done. Thanks

Will you accept a trade for full tank of fuel I had last week? Only done 550km on it.

Hey all, Anybody know how to tell the difference between R33 gtr dumps and R32 gtr dumps? Just pulled off my turbos and found they are R33 N1 turbos but can't find anything to identify if they dumps are R32 or R33 dumps. Cheers

Yeah but when they pull down your motor in years to come they will know you are hardcore.

Thanks for the feedback Cheers

Another concern I had was going from 2 standard O2 sensors to 1. I know on V6 and V8s they run 2 but this would be because they have dual exhausts where as the GTR has 2 outlets that merge. Is there any advantage on the GTR to running 2 O2 sensors? From what I understand the standard O2 sensors cost about $150 each and should be replaced every 40k. For $300 wouldn't you be better off getting the LC-1 and gauge. It is a bit more work initially to get your front pipe modified but after that isn't this a more ecconomical and superior setup? Please correct me if I am misguided I just can't figure out why anybody would bother replacing their standard O2 sensors if for a fraction more and a bit of work they can have a superior setup that will be cheaper and probably less problematic in the long run. Thanks

I was under the impression the LC-1 was able to output a narrow band output. The powerFC will not be able to use a wideband without the datalogit. I was planning on using this output to still drive the powerFC so it still has closed loop mode. While using the wideband to drive a AFR gauge and hooking up to a computer while tuning the powerFC. I guess what I was asking is wouldn't it be better to use the LC-1 as a wideband to narrowband converter rather than use the 2 standard O2 sensors that way you would only be really running 1 O2 sensor instead of 3. Cheers

Hey all, Has anybody had experience with using an LC-1 wb O2 sensor with a power FC? I don't have a datalogit though this might happen in the future. I know that with the datalogit you can connect the LC-1 to the Power FC. But without it what is the best practice? I assume since you only have the 1 wb sensor you would plumb it into the front pipe after the 2 pipes merge. Leave the standard NB O2 sensors in place but unplug them and use the analogue outputs from the LC-1 to drive the O2 inputs? Sound about right? Thanks

I am in exactly the same boat. I removed the front crank oil seal and thought I would be able to see the type of crank my car had. Just like you it told me very little even when sticking my head in there and taking photos. However I found from looking at the photos by sticking a small jewelers screwdriver into where the seal use to be you can see how deep the screwdriver goes before it hits the second lip of the crank. From the photos you can see that the older style crank would go deeper than the newer type. I put the screwdriver in, marked how deep it went and measured it against the stroker crank I have. I found them to be the same. Thus I have the newer style. Screwdriver should only go in about 12mm if it is the newer crank. If it substantially more than 12mm it is most likely the older style crank. Hope the photos attached help explain. I don't have access to an older style crank so I can't give any exact measurements however at a guess it would be 20mm+.

Hey mate, thanks for the reply. Was planning on either getting an R33/34 crank or a collar once this engine started to get tired. I was going to start collecting parts now in preperation for the rebuild. I guess the only way to be sure would be to pull the crankshaft seal. Might have to bite the bullet and get motivated. Thought I would give it a shot in the off chance somebody could confirm the change over build date and save myself some work. In other words... I am lazy.

Hey all, I have a 92 R32 gtr that has had an engine and gearbox transplant before I purchased it. The donor car was another R32 but don't know what year. I had always worked on the assumption that it would of been an older R32. However last night I discovered I have a pull type clutch. Meaning the gearbox would of been from a R32 made after 2/93 (thats when clutch type changed over). I have heard that the oil pump drive was changed on the 93 models but does anybody have any firm dates? Would my car most likely have the longer or shorter drive? Thanks

It all comes down to intended purpose. It seems people want to say outright that an RB30 bottom end is better no disadvantages. While in certain circumstances this might be true. It is definitely not true in all. Weighed up going RB30 for my R32 GTR streeter and found that it would probably be a fair bit of mucking around plus legality, insurance and resale. Now had it been for a circuit or drag car I would of been more than happen to whack the RB30 bottom end in. Truth is time and time again the RB26 has proven it can produce big numbers. I can't realistically say I need more than what an RB26 can produce for a street driven car. I know having the 3litre bottom end would have made me feel a bit bigger in the pants but at the end of the day it would have made no difference to what I was using the car for.

After trying to turn the car over go and feel your battery terminals. If they are hot you have too much resistance. Voltage doesn't matter if your terminals are dirty or you have a bad earth. Correct voltage at the battery doesn't mean much other than your battery isn't dead flat or have busted cells. Also check the under bonnet ignition fuse. If this is blown it will not turn over and will give the symptoms you mention.

I apologies in advance if somebody has already started a thread on this. I did search and found nothing. http://mybnr32.com/blog/?p=135 The site above taken from a gtr UK site has details about people buying Cat Power rods that are apparently Tomei rods. It is claimed that Cat power supply rods to Tomei and they refinish them to their own internal specs and resell them. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/74699-my-new-h-...eagle-rods.html The thread above show Cat Power rods with the Tomei logo on them. Not saying that because they have Tomey stamped on them they must be the same. However could there be any truth behind this? Would be interesting to hear if anybody on these forums would know otherwise.

^^^ You are thinking much the same as I am. I would rather over build the engine while its apart and have room to push it further if I want to down the track. I hate doing things twice.

Cheers

Thank for the input. I am going to be running Nismo 581 turbos (group a's) and wanted a bit more capacity for response. Another reason is that I got the crank at a good price and thought it would be better to go with a stroker crank rather then an R33 crank that way I get a bit more capacity and the wider collar. Plus as an added bonus the counter crank should be less likely to cause the oil pump distress. I realise you are right that 300kw can be achived without replacing the crank but it was always going to have to come out of the car to get a collar so why not throw something better in? I was always going to put forged rods and pistons in, now I just have to get some customs pistons made to suit the crank as I don't have the full HKS stroker kit. Getting off the point here. Was more interested in how well the 05U block would handle a bore of 87mm as opposed to 86.5. I couldn't find anything from HKS about whether their stroker kits where recommended to be run on an N1 block.