boostn0199

Do they recomend use of teflon tape needed with there fittings or not?

Just wanting to get the 33gtr din gauges bracket and put in three of my own gauges into it just wanting to know does it just fit screw in to the 33gtst?

I took mine apart, if your careful you can do it without breaking it, its glued then after just silicon or glue it together. In mine the diode was fried so change that it was fine but your case seems like some leds are fried so will have to replace them.

I just did all my rear control arm bushes with whiteline plus and handleing rise its a monster improvment cant comment on durability since only been a couple of weeks but yeah performance wise couldnt be happier so far and there quiet.

Yeah ill do that and I just try put those specfic corners up a gear where its really bad.

Get what done properly? The car is all tuned and fine and yeah I know its easy to change the limiter down via the controller I was just wondering how much benifet it would give me.

Power fc

My car currently has the rev limiter tuned at 7500 and its a stock rb25 bottom end on e85 I was just thinking since the car is used for drifting and it spends alot of time bounching of the limiter would it help if I set the limiter back down to 7000?

The gizzmo is great just do a search heaps of people with big setups run them. You wont find anything else for that price that comes close to it.

greddy profec, blitz dual sbs or gizzmo all great and will do the job no problem. Im running a blitz and never a single problem. So whatever comes up with the best deal grab it.

Cool ill be in whenver you decide to run it.

Either way there a waste of money because to properly cool the car down you should drive it around going easy for last couple of min rather than just letting it sit there stationary for a min doesn't help that much if youve just thrashed it.

Is it to late for this group buy now? looks very interesting. So it still retains the same size oil filter the z145a?

Well its not that obvious with massive sludge coming out but just little builds up of sludge will make it not function properly and when you clean it out you wont see it cause it all gets mixed up in the oil and whatever cleaning agent you used.

If there is enough sludge in there for it to be ticking loud this probably wont work as you will have to disassemble it to give it a real good clean inside, I get a tooth brush and get in there scrubbing it all out with gun wash then let them soak in it for a few hours.

I doubt its leaking because of those 3 small auxiliary bolts on the side as when I bought mine it had none of them on and there was no leak, more likely its been incorrectly installed or torqued especially if there ARP studs you got to do it right or else they will lose tension. As for changing it just take it slow and yes it is like any other car just check the head and block to see if it is within range for straightness and also make sure you clean the surface very well not leaving any of the old gasket on. If you dont cut any corners and do everything properly there should be no reason to have a leak again.

Even at 17 each your still looking at a few hundred for a few set when cleaning them isnt to hard just get the hang of it. You only need to buy them if there completely seized or have to much play.

Easy job once you get the hang of the first one how to take it apart and put it together. You just hit the lifter against a flat surface progressively harder unto you see it pop out then as others said pull it out with pliers. I found using a wooden table best as there wouldnt be any damage done to the lifter. One other thing to keep in mind in the instructions it says when assembling them back together to try and push it together to get it in the circlip that is actually very hard to do what I did was easy way that took 5 sec. Make sure its lined up as says and put on flat table and push down from the top and it will click in no worries providing you have it lined up with the circlip.

Well its no secret that caltex ethanol varies from e70 to e85 they state it themselves, it then comes down to the tuner where they will make the tune have some headroom to account for the change in ethanol content. Im on the caltex ethanol and my tuner was very confident that hes tune would handle anything in between 70 and 85.

Doesnt surprise me after working at a mechanic that was quite well respected and I was shocked how dodgy it was. Also took my head off recently found 1 head bolt missing and only 3 cylinders had gasket on the exhust manifold lol must of lost the 2nd half of it. 1 rule never trust anyone to do anything you always hear people say ohh no mines alright mines good but they would be surpised.

I think the caltex in clayton will have it soon since there doing some construiction work on the pumps.

Yeah like I said your not using an oxy to get it hot to the point where it can alter its shapes or properties your just getting it hot enough with a torch to get the particles moving so you can hit out the outer sleeve. How do you think nissan had put in those standard bushes? they were heat dropped in not pressed. If your talking about shockers and components like that it different story youd never put any heat on them but control arms and hubs little bit of heat to loosen it up wont do any harm.

There is nothing wrong with removing the part and heating it up with a blow torch, we are not talking temps like you would get from an oxy. The only thing would be to watch out for other bushes and ball joints but if your taking them out it doesnt matter.

If you want an easy way to get them out just get the blow torch out burn the rubber out then from the heat you can bang out the outer sleeve with a socket or something came out with two hits of the hammer rather than spending ages cutting. I replaced all my rears with the whiteline plus bushes and its a different car now.

Either make a new one or you might get away with the 90 degree silicon bends.