boostn0199

I doubt those 3 little bolts would be an issue, recently when I took off my head on my rb25det I found whoever previously touched it they only put one of those small bolts and didnt put 1 head bolt and I have driven it around for about 100000 with alot of thrashing and the gasket didnt leak or blow.

Got for sale a brand new geniune nissan head gasket for a rb25det. Ordered a gasket kit and dont need the head gasket so selling it off. Chasing $100 for it , so if you need one save yourself $80 as nissan want $180. Located in SE surburbs melbourne, will post at your expense.

130 for just the gasket thats such a rip when the vrs gasket kit is 280 at just jap and basically has every gasket for the engine, Id rather buy that and then sell of the rest of the gaskets like the head etc.

Dont know about autometer but with any other tacho and shift light I had in my r33 never needed any converter just hook it up to the pin of the ecu and good to run.

Yeah well its true when they say you cant have a quiet and flowing exhuast for a cheap price. Hence why racepace charge 3-4000 for a quiet exhuast that does not have a restriction.

Hopefully I can sort out all my car problems and get it tuned, burning to drive it been to long no boost lol.

Dont waste your money on a kakimato they weld a restrictor in them. I bought one and regreted the 1300 I spent allthough I ended up cutting the restrictor out but was a flamin mongrel of a job. The only reason its quiet is because of the restrictor in it.

I have rotated it by hand and can hear the pulse. Im only looking towards the CAS since the more you play around with it causes it to start and also the problem started after I put the CAS on without the timing cover.

You mean just turn the ignition on? Then just keep rotating back and fourth?

Just a few questions I think that my CAS is broken. First ive set at the factory mark on the timing belt cover and the car worked and idled fine no problem then when took it for a drive up and down eventually stalls and when you start it would come on for a few seconds then stall but then I mucked around rotating it and it started and idled fine but barely was able to drive it up 2 driveway into the garage. Also some background I have taken the timing belt covers off top and bottom the other day to make sure its not an issue and its fine. So just asking what you guys think and it is possible to test it without actually physically fitting another one but if anyone in the south east suburbs would be willing to let me test it with theres on would be nice, Ill pay you something if you want. Thanks

Check your turbo to manifold gasket aswell and also the front pipe to cat and rest of exhuast but if its loud most likely the manifold itself or turbo to manifold gasket.

Just put everthing back together and put it on with the timing cover this time started up first crank guess I was lucky didnt kill the CAS. Its one of those things that are really simple but you just dont think about it.

Just abit of an update. I have noticed the back of the cas had made contact with the cam gear bolts and has sort of grinded it as you can see in the pic. I think it happened due to I didnt put the top timing belt cover on. Could this affect the CAS?

No worries , if you have anymore questions while doing it just PM me

Is there anyway to check if its the cas without having to get another one and plugging it in?

have checked all the connectors there fine, have taken off both timing belt covers and belt has not skipped, have checked for fuel and have spark. Just dont get it ran normal than all of a sudden at lights stalls and thats it.

Well its kinda like with any repitive work since theres 24 the first few are always annoying and eventually you find tricks and its easy to do it. For me the cleaning was time consuming because I separated each one into its on group and cleaned them individually then dried and assembled. Ive attached the guide I used since I cant find the website but in the guide he mixes all the parts together then gives them abit of sanding to re surface them but I decided to keep them separate and in the same position so there was no need to re surface them. Hope the guide helps. clenaing lifters.docx

If your gona clean them you cant just soak them in diesel oil and leave it at that, You have to physically take each one apart which has in total 4 parts and clean them all separately and dont mix them up make sure each one goes there certain valve. I found a nice write up that I followed let me know if your interested in it.

Just finished installing my poncams and valve springs. Started the car and first crank started no worries worked all day. Now just set the timing to 15 degrees went for a light drive no boosting and was going fine no probelm them all of a sudden at the lights stalls and doesnt start again. Took off the top timing belt cover and checked if the cams were still alligned and they are both alright havnt skipped and the belts tension seems fine so I dont see how it could have skipped a gear so running out of ideas.

Were the lifters disassembled and cleaned before being put in? They pick up gunk in them over the years.

What Ive heard is it all depends on who does it. If they do a good job then it should be fine but also if its dodgy can be a disaster. Ive even heard of some guys freind doing it for him in hes own garage and aparently no complaints lol. But personally I like to spend the extra and know 100percent I know what is in there is quality so in my book nismos ftw,

lol dont worry I was half asleep and being stupid I was putting the spring on the cam gear bolt when its meant to go in between the cover and bolt. No wonder it wouldnt go in.

Just wondering is it just me or is that intake cam gear bolt extremely hard to tighten in order for the head of the bolt to be inside the cam gear. I have tightened it tight but I still cannot get it inside the gear so the cover can be put on.

I just got a few questions about the ARP studs, ive heard you need to re torque them after like the first 100km and that you cannot get to them without removing the cams is this true?

Just a question while on the topic, do you use loctite on the tensioner stud when changing it?