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About Bitsushiti

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    Rank: RB20DET
  • Birthday December 6

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  • Car(s)
    '96 R33 GTSt

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  1. Hi fellas, I'm currently shopping around for new a set of 18" wheels for my '96 R33 S2 GTS25T. I've been leaning towards a set of Lenso D1Rs. I currently have +30mm front guards, my rear arches have been rolled professionally and they also appear to have been slightly pulled (by 5-10mm or so) in comparison to standard S2s. I'm currently running Tein SS adjustable coilovers and have a set of adjustable rear camber arms stored in the shed on standby. While hunting around on google images for 33 GTS25Ts rolling on D1R's, one particular set of pics stood out from the rest. The owner of the car in the pics below (from NZ) claims he's running 18x9.0 with -4 offset all round. Original thread that pics are from can be found here: http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=193124 I thought I'd run this past you guys first before making any decisions and parting with any cash... Considering my 33 is currently a daily driver, do you think -4 offset would be ok? or would I be better off going for more conservative/positive offsets to avoid headaches? Any thoughts/suggestions/advice etc would be highly valued & appreciated. Cheers!
  2. I'd say nope, not defectable. When my 33 first went over the pits 5 years ago when I didn't know any different, first thing they spotted was my atmo BOV. Got told to block it off, so I replaced it with a blanking plug and they gave the all clear.
  3. Upgrading exhaust, intake, FMIC, atmo BOV and running more than 10psi boost will all wreak havoc on the standard ECU. Ideally you should get onto replacing the stock ECU with the PowerFC and organising a proper tune asap for best results, but in the meantime, how much boost are you running? It's hitting rich & retard by the sounds of it. When it happens, does your CEL (check engine light) flash rapidly? or steadily? Rapidly = knock value of 40+ detected. Steadily = AFM or injectors maxed. Both will cause rich & retard... Try setting your boost controller back to 7psi and see if that helps.
  4. If you want to check your CAS (this is for CAS with mitsubishi logo): • Pull the fuel pump fuse out • Start engine over until it dies • Unplug the CAS • Have your handy modified spark plug lead and timing gun ready • Remove the three bolts and carefully slide the CAS out. Try spinning the shaft on the back. It should spin smoothly & freely, if it's hard to spin and/or has a grimey/scratchy feel to it (metal shavings), it's likely cactus. Optional: You can try cleaning it by removing the three screws on the back, and the two screws on the metal plate that goes around the plug. Once the three base screws are out and the metal plate is removed from around the plug, give the shaft a couple of gentle taps with the rubber handle of a screwdriver and the case will come apart. You do not want to bend the disc inside so be careful. Don't bother removing the two screws on the black plastic thing inside too, there's three little delicate pins inside it that seem like they don't want to let go. If the disc inside is ok and not bent, hose the inside of the CAS out with mass airflow sensor cleaner and reassemble. • Plug the CAS back in again, turn your key to ignition on and slowly spin the shaft by hand. You should hear your injectors clicking. If not, check the plug, if still no go, CAS is buggered. • Check the seal/gasket between the CAS and the engine, make sure it's still good, put a dob of grease in the end of the CAS shaft, align the half-moon thingy to match the half moon position on your cam, carefully slide it back in and do up the three bolts to finger-tight. Put fuel pump fuse back in again. Consult FSM on re-setting timing to 15 degrees BTDC, then tighten the the three bolts up (don't over-do it). If any of this advice is wrong I happily stand to be corrected... I did mine recently using the above method and it still works perfectly Cheers
  5. Check those hose clamps, joiners, hoses and vac lines on all intake, cooler piping, boost controller, BOV, brake booster, rocker cover breather hoses, PCV system etc again. Check all of them. Anything with a bendy black thing attached to a solid something and a silver/gold clampy thing holding it there. If you have a mechanical boost gauge, even check the line going into the back of that and the point where it goes through the firewall too. I can't stress the importance of this enough... it could save you from hours of pulling your hair out and spending hundreds of dollars chasing ghosts. I once had a wormdrive clamp that was an absolute bitch to get to and would only play up once engine warmed up to operating temp, eg. intermittent lean misfire and rough idle, rough performance at low rpm. Even with a vac/boost leak tester I made with 18psi pressure applied it wasn't obvious. It drove me insane for about 2 months in which time I literally tore my whole engine bay apart, spent hundreds and replaced heaps of shit that didn't need doing. I ended up feeling pretty stupid when I discovered a single twist of a screw on a $3 hose clamp was all that was needed to solve my problem. On the upside I learned a ton about how an RB ticks and there's heaps of shit that won't need attention for a long time... lol. IAC / AAC valve - likely to have 15+ years of junk in it. Refer to this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/ Throttle body - it wouldn't hurt to give the TB & butterfly a good clean too (while you've got the carby cleaner handy from your IAC/AAC valve cleaning session ). Mass Airflow Sensor (AFM) - remove and give it a good clean. Don't use carby cleaner on this. Use dedicated mass airflow sensor cleaner instead, it's not a solvent. O2 sensor - if your ECU is relying on it (standard ECU does afaik), remove and clean, if really shitty, replace it. If o2 feedback isn't required eg. aftermarket ECU tune, ignore this. Fuel Filter - it'll cost ya about $10 for a new one. Ryco Z200 fits like a glove and is a bit longer which is handy if you need to trim a bit of fuel hose back to get the old one off. If it hasn't been replaced for a long time I'd get onto it, I've seen some horrific shit come out of filters that have been left unchanged for 1+ years. In uncommon/rare event - Knock sensor/s - if your ecu can't get a reading from them, it'll richen your map up and retard the timing. Inspect 'em. Hope this helps Cheers
  6. not sure if removing it might cause problems. It may cause dramas with your ABS and ATESSA system (error code 13). I'd try relocating it if anything...
  7. Gravity Sensor / G-sensor
  8. Suspect throttle position sensor (TPS)? You can check TPS voltage with your PFC commander under ETC -> Sensor check (with ignition on - don't need to start engine) Voltage should be 0.5v throttle closed, 4.5v throttle open.
  9. I'd check to see if the amp still has a solid earth and that it hasn't come loose from vibration and do the same for the fuse and all connections on the power line, then try setting all gain settings on the amp back to 0 and give it another go. If this fails or gain is already set to 0, pull the amp out, remove the cover & inspect the PCB and around the terminals for burnt mosfets/capacitors etc. If you can't remove the cover, try giving the amp a light shake to listen for loose rattly bits and also use your nose and have a sniff around, capacitors have a really distinctive smell when they get fried. If there's nothing visibly wrong with the PCB, take it to a TV sparky to get them to check over it (if it's worth salvaging), or... use this as an excuse to upgrade
  10. Hi Azza, have a read over this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/347079-series-2-engine-in-a-series-1-r33-gtst/ Cheers
  11. I had another look around, apparently you can reset to factory defaults by going to the main menu, selecting 'etc' followed by 'init' or 'initialise'. Note this is for the first SAFC, not sure if same applies for SAFC2...
  12. Have you tried this? Edit: Sorry - just re-read and realised you've checked the manual with no success
  13. I'm thinking about grabbing a set of Axis Super Hiros for my 33. Are 19"s too big?
  14. I have attached a pic of where the coolant bleed bolt is
  15. Intermittent hesitation when rolling on the throttle, jerks around and surges unexpectedly? Sounds AFM related. The solder from the afm plug to the pcb inside it lets go after a while (especially after 13+ years of heating/cooling/vibration) and can lose connection when hitting bumps etc. Eg. fine one minute, pain in the ass the next. I had a very similar problem a while ago and followed this tutorial which completely cured it: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/113284-fixing-your-rb26-afms/ applies to RB25 AFM as well) Even if the plug looks fine, solder it anyway while you've got it opened up. Cheers
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