fletch rb30

Are you returning your turbo coolant to that fitting below the head gasket? Would that not result in no flow through the turbo as you are returning the water to the same pressure as the supply - both below the head gasket? I thought the return needed to be above the head gasket where there was lower pressure to allow it to flow. Not knocking your setup, just curious as im redoing all the plumbing on mine and checking out everybody else's setup. Also, +1 for Lexus over eurotrash

I don't think the location of the dot on the neo actuator matters. It's just to differentiate between DET (red 20degrees) and DE (green 30 degrees)

Maybe pull the inlet cam pulley off and check the bolts are tight, the outer pulley might have slipped on the inner, retarding the inlet cam. VCT still works, but timing up the shit

No rwd experience sorry. Just a few people I know with fwd nissans. Always worked out better in the long run to get a proper lsd head. This was maybe 2003-2006ish

Looks the same as the old 'Phantom Grip' units from early 00's I know a few jokers who put them in fwd's and mostly resulted in lots of wear and the lsd effect wore off pretty quickly

If you can get some 4 pot calipers and 5 stud rotors you can drill the rotors to 4 stud. 1 of the stud holes lines up, so you make a mandrel that locates the ventre bore of both rotors, and one of the stud holes and drill the other 3. Would be cheaper than changing hubs and also wheels to 5 stud

If he said you only need 1, you should be OK. But officially it's 2 on a 2 piece driveshaft. There was some talk they were going to relax the rule a bit. Maybe it's starting to happen. I certed my 30 conversion before the hoop rules came in, but want to do brakes which will trigger a re-cert. I'm hoping to squeak through

Yes that's a neo head. They all have the oil drain un-drilled

Yes i aware of that. I had pulled it out of the case to try and see why the bottom friction was not engaging on the drum. You can see in the photos that its miles off. I was asking to see if anybody had the same issue as it was the same on the 32 and 33 drum i had. I pulled it completely apart and found the clips that hold the thrust had fallen out and were stopping the inner hub from going all the way to the bottom of the basket. There was no mention of this in the manual that i could find. I reassembled it and put a cable tie at the other end to keep the inner hub hard against the half washer clips until the front cover is installed. If it is pulled forward, the outer ring call fall off the half washers and stop the hub going all the way in

Thanks to the great information above, i have got stuck into my own transfer case upgrade. I am using an R32 case. Using the R32 5mm rear plate, i notice the first friction plate will not reach the internal splines. If i run the plate anyway as a spacer and then chuck in a steel and another friction, the 2nd friction is just off the end of the splines. Has anybody had any issues with this? I worry that when the 4wd is engaged it will not line up with the splines and will strip the teeth off the friction. Backing plate installed 1st friction Any ideas? Thanks

the front half of the box is the same length apart from the input shaft which you can machine the end of it back a bit to fit. The rear half is shorter. If your going to run one in a new conversion, you should strip the box and do the bearings and also machine the input shaft. Then reassemble with a gtr or rb25det bellhousing. Your going to have to make a diveshaft anyway, so make it longer to suit the d22 box. You cant use a RB input shaft because the tooth count is different. You can buy a broken 25det or 26 box cheap for the bellhousing only. If you can get a big box with a blown 3rd gear for cheap, and a diesel box, you can make 1 out of 2 that will fit inside the RB case. I have done a few for mates. Most recent one is behind a 330rwkw rb25det neo. going well so far

33 and 34 vct activation is different. On 33 heads, the oil constantly feeds the front journal to lubricate it. The oil leaves the journal via the vct solenoid into the head. When the vct engages the solenoid blocks the drain which pressurises the pulley and advances the cam. The semi constant oil drain from the front journal is the reason for the oil drain in the front of the 33 vct heads. If you look at the head and the cam you can see the oil holes are in line and it lines up with the groove in the cam which is ported to the cam pulley On the 34 neo head, the front journal lubrication comes from the same main gallery as the rest of the cam bearings. The vvt solenoid has its own feed which is closed when the vvt is off. when it turns on, it feeds pressure to the grove in the cam which activates the vvt pulley. When it turns off, it shuts the oil feed from the block, and vents the oil pressure in the pulley to the head. If you look at the front cam journal you will see the same 2 holes as the 33 head, except they are not in line, and the grove in the neo cam lines up with the oil hole from the solenoid only. The advantages of the 34 system are the cam journal is always fed with pressurised oil like the rest of the journals, and the vvt only discharges a small amount of oil into the head when the vvt switches off, instead of the constant loss of the 33 system. This also explains why a few people here and there who just block off the vvt on their 33 head and run an rb20det or similar cam, seize the cam as there is no dedicated lubrication to the front journal. sorry no photos on hand to show what i mean, and couldnt find them on google

which spring do you need to replace? if its just the spring/s you can do it in the car. you might need a couple of different shape picks to get the old springs out

did you google the part number on the pistons? i get 11.3cc dish WISECO 6577M87 PRO TRU PISTONS $132.22 Pro Tru Pistons; Sport Compact Series; Replacement/Individual Piston; Recommended RingSet: 8700XX; Rings & Pins Included Part Number: 6577M87 SPECS: Comp Ratio: 7.0:1 Rod: 152.5 Bore: 87mm Comp Height: 32 Dome Volume: -11.3 Stroke: 85 Gram Weight: 384

there is some kind of frontal impact law that they bought in on imports. i think it has to be post 1996, or 25 years old plus. also, if you can prove you have owned the car for a year in oz, you dont have to pay import duties. couple of grand drive on drive off from brisbane to auckland. then a customs inspection, can be cheap but depends on how much they feel like ripping you. just make sure its as clean as possible, dirt under the guards/ bugs etc. then a roadworthy inspection around 350-400 nzd plus you have to pay the first years rego then of about 220nzd, and your on the road. Being modified you will most likely have to get a low volume cert which is around 550 i think. yours is a common conversion here so should go straight through.