rob77

I've spoken to ivan @ speedworks again, and we are at $30/person (minimum of 15 people... shouldnt be too hard to get) and his dyno CAN do 4wd, so gtr's/gts4. What you people think? Rob

japanese motor sports? or any of the other wreckers/car part places in adelaide/sydney. Rob

Ok, I'll talk to ivan again. If you want $30/car we are going to need to get a fair amount of people. When I rang PSI (about 6 months ago) to get a price on a dyno run (ie: run car with stock everything and then fit exhaust and run car again) I got quoted $100+ for the dyno time. Rob

Just spoke with ivan @ speedworks. He's more than happy for you guys to come to him for $50/person to have a power run on his dyno. Depending on numbers, might be able to get a couple of runs. I'd be pretty interested to see what numbers my car is up to now. I was up to 160HP @ wheels just after fitting an exhaust (stock airbox still etc). I'm sure it'll be over 200HP @ wheels. Rob

I've got a razo one. Its fully automatic, just senses the RPM of the car and adjusts time accordingly. The alarm system (cyclops)I have arms itself partially as soon as I press the button and fully arms itself 10 seconds after the turbo timer stops the engine from running. I pretty much leave it set to 1 minute, cos the auto setting is a bit crap sometimes, if I've given it a really hard time I check the auto vs the 1 minute timer and see which is greater and leave it running. A turbo timer is more a convenience thing than anything else, but letting the turbo and engine cool down before shutting off is a MUST do. Rob

Whose dyno you going to use? Speedworks have new dyno and I'm sure it will be one of the more acurate around. Rob.

Your biggest problem will probably be the stock computer. Seeing as you cant change the maps, it'll start to freak when you run more boost and have increased air flow, it'll probably retard the timing to compensate and you'll end up with an ugly power curve. The best option is to change the ECU, the weapon of choice is probably the powerfc if you have a manual car. It plugs straight in and has maps to start the car and start dyno tuning it. Myself personally I'll probably get a haltech e6k because the tuning shop I use knows these in and out and recommends it highly. Remember its always best to get the ecu that the workshop you are going to use is familiar with so they can tune it correctly. Nice choice of turbo, I feel I will use the same one. Rob

Unsure yet cos it hasnt landed and the workshop is unsure what price they paid for it. When I ordered it the exchange rate was 1aud to 64yen, when it shipped (about 1.5-2 months later) it was 1aud to 68-69yen. Plus you got GST and import duty. Plus it was there 2nd dearest kit for a R33 gts25t, the dearest one includes a intake plenum so that the return pipes can come up the right hand side of the engine. Just the intake plenum is about $1500. Rob

You had temperature gauges measuring intake temps and correct engine temps? Just because you cant hear detonation doesnt mean it isnt happening. I think anyone running their turbo'd car on more than stock boost with the factory intercooler on a hot day (30+) is crazy. Rob

I've got a blitz dual sbc type s. It electronically controls the level of boost, I've got 2 settings; 0.6 bar and 0.8 bar. I use 0.6 bar for most of my daily driving and especially in the warmer weather as I'm still running the stock cooler (I've got a Trust front mount on its way). I only run 0.8bar mainly at night when its much colder. I cant stress how important it is to back off the engine if you've got it on a high boost setting and you hear detonation (it sounds like something rattling in the engine, like marbles) cos if you keep your foot buried you'll be rebuilding that engine Rob

I had an apexi twin chamber bov, great sound, but it made the car run very rich and I got backfires on 80% of my gear changes from running too rich. It also affected my idling and the car stalled twice when braking hard and coming to a stop because of the airflow. If you really want the sound you will have to put up with this. If you have a aftermarket ecu you could tune it with the bov on and it wouldnt run so rich. Anyway, I'm back to the std bov, makes a bit more noise with a pod filter. Rob

I've got 2 Ceat tornado's with 85% tread left (only 6 month old, havent had a hard life). They are 205/55 R16, great for burnout use or to compliance a vehicle and keep the jap tyres aside. $50 each. Rob

HBF do insure imports, my mate just got his silvia insured with them. Rob

Happened to me too. The stock airbox or the blitz filter element I was running was restricting the airflow at high RPM and causes the engine to retard (ie: car would stop pulling till I changed gear). I fitted up a HKS super power filter and all is fine now. I run 0.8bar of boost with 1.1mm or 1.0mm gapped plugs and I havent experienced any misfires or flat spots. Rob

Good luck. I've voiced my opinions on my prefered workshop ages ago. Rob

Ring him and find out??? I have no idea sorry. It cost me about $80 to get my skyline transported from the wharf in freo to kelmscott where it got complianced when I brought it in. You'll have to ring him and find out. Rob

I've done the deal on a set of SP9000's in 225/55 profile for the rear's. Help give the car that bit more traction when it squats, it throws the speedo out a bit though. Takes 10 days for them to come in from Kostera's in kalamunda. Rob

Flat top. Able towing service, ask for brian tell him Robert from harvey norman gave you his number. call him on 0418290469, he will flat top your car from your house to auto clutch. That price is good, you must have gone with the organic clutch and not the metal clutch. The metal one is the one I am getting and its around $850 drive in and out. Rob

power as in horsepower?? remember engage brain before opening mouth Rob

I dont think you'll see an increase in power (maybe a better curve and maybe a couple of kw's). But with the better cooler the car will be getting more cool air in and intake temps will be better which will stop detonation. The next step is either bigger turbo and more boost, or (I would do this first) new ecu or rechip the r32 cpu. Rob

Becareful with bleed valves make sure you dont let the car spike to much over 1bar of boost. Anything more than that with the stock intercooler will cause detonation on a warmish day and the ceramic wheel on the turbo will drop off and fly down your exhaust if not too careful. I would say be safe and set boost to ~ 0.8bar. I have an electronic boost controller restricting it to 0.8bar boost max. I havent dyno'd it but the car should be over 200HP @ rear wheels and its fairly quick. I've found my stock clutch and crap tyres are the main problem with traction issues and my front mount is on order from japan. Rob

I've heard HBF still do insurance as well. Not sure, I'm with RAC but when renewall comes around hopefully HBF do it as I'm with them on my private health cover. Rob

When I spoke to ray @ kostera's he reckons the SP9000 are the best. Depends on how much you wanna spend though. Well the D01 dunlops are anyway, but hella exxy. Rob

in osborne park. lookup auto clutch rob

G to perth autoclutch and see Roy (I think) look around $850-$900 for a 2500 pound pressure plate with a metal plate. Pretty much all you'll need for up to 400HP (at flywheel). I will be getting one next week as well... stock clutches are dogs when you start running more boost and power. Rob