djr81

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About djr81

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  1. Not that it looks to be a Tomei cam, but possibly, maybe even probably. You can measure the thing as follows: LOBE HEIGHT Machining each lobe to the strictest tolerances allows for smoother and more precise adjustments in valve clearances. Based on: 9.15mm max lift, Φ32 base circle SPEC. 41.15mm ACTUAL (avg.) 41.1455mm DIFFERENCE (avg.) 0.0045mm DIFFERENCE (%) 0.0001% The greater this 'difference', the more shims and time required to adjust the valve clearance.
  2. That's a good result. The original fabrics are a bit sht anyway, truth be told. Did they redo any of the foam or was it just the materials?
  3. Would want to be at that price...
  4. Surely you just need to tell everyone its built for an event, do two slow laps for a photo shoot, then bang on about the easy 10 seconds you can knock off your lap time by installing more stickers? Actually turning up for an event is a dick move.
  5. that and go looking for air leaks in the induction system.
  6. Its probably all conjecture and meaningless until you have worked out what your damage is. So turbo is gone? Loss of compression blown gasket or busted rings? So are there results from a compression test and/or sniffer in the radiator if the thing still runs. Is the bottom end ok? Power steer can overheat and overflow but not after one lap usually. Comes down to what is different between a dyno and the track. Oil surge is possible but unlikely to be fatal after one lap. Bad fuel and or fuel surge will cause problems more quickly. Damage caused quickly is overwhelmingly combustion related rather than oil/coolant related. The only other thing that fleetingly comes to mind is an over rev/over boost. Its a depressing thought but more than one thing may have been busted.
  7. Spring rates like that will give you three things: 1 Understeer. 2. Good traction. 3. Harsh front end. Essentially if you don't get bored understeering around corners you will get good traction if you can ever get on the gas. If you look at Nismo S tune spring rates you will see they are higher on the rear than the front. 6.0kg/mm front 6.7kg/mm rear. Much more sensible rates.
  8. Wow. OK. Understeeeeeeeeeeer. Looked up the Cusco ones as a comparison (%'s compared to stock). Front Cusco 24 dia, 192% stiffer. ARC 30 dia (From your number) 240% stiffer. Rear Cusco 30 dia , 162% stiffer. ARC 30 dia 180% stiffer. Guessing ARC quote the numbers with the drop links on their hardest setting.
  9. Front and rear the same diameter?
  10. Where did you get them from - and what diameter are they?
  11. Take a photo and post it. The Nissan pipe will have a small orifice (Restrictor) in is. Does your new piping? PCV = Positive Crank ventilation. When you have manifold vacuum it will suck the blowby out of the sump. It is usually on the exhaust cam side of the engine half way along. What did you do to the piping on this side?
  12. Why do you want roll if you have aero? Roll stops the front splitter working properly.
  13. You haven't listed any injectors. Given,for example, the Nismo I/C isn't needed and costs a bomb I can't work out your intent. Sell the turbo and get something good,. It's probably the most important bit on the whole bill. You list, to be honest reads a bit like its 1990. EG Apexi is old, old tech.
  14. You don't empty the sump. But you can easily put enough in a catch can that firing over kerbs splashes oil everywhere (out the breather) and makes a mess. So it works better with an empty catch can. The oil is invariably stinking hot anyway. Hot enough to boil off any ethanol (if that is what you are running) and water. Also to burn the crap out of your hands when you spill it after touching the stinking hot engine/radiator hoses etc etc. Sure you can wait until it cools but then you lose half your track time. Anyway point is if you are thinking of changing oil do it AFTER the track day. Because what you are seeing is condensation.
  15. Kiwi's will be pleased. Must be something in the water over there these days.