djr81

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About djr81

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  1. Car looks nice. I’m in the throes of swapping a power fc for a link ecu so will be interested to hear your opinion on how the two compare. The only other comment is the front needs more neg camber GTR’s are bastards for understeer.
  2. djr81

    Can the thread have more XE Falcon?
  3. Think the problem is the spacer fits on the hub but not the rim. The other thing to keep in mind is do you have enough stud length?
  4. Not 100% sure on this but: You can get rims in 66.1mm diameter centre bore and you can get them in 73.1 diameter. You appear to have bought a spacer that allows fitting of one to the other
  5. djr81

    If the dampers are worn out then yes as you cant/wont get them rebuilt. You could maybe try and replace the dampers alone but to be honest it is just as cheap and a damn site easier to get a coil over package and be done with it. But start with the spring rates, work out your budget and reconcile with the fact that if you ask a dozen people you will get a dozen different answers none of which will be even close to the same. For example. If you were to go with a Nismo S spec set of springs/dampers they start at 4 & 3 kg/mm (If I read it correctly) which is at the low end of the range. MCA will spec something very different again and it varies with their intended use. The ones you were looking at were 12 & 8kg/mm which is pretty stiff. What you will mostly find is a front spring rate 1 or 2 kg/mm stiffer than the rear (MCA aside) and anywhere in a range from 5kg up to 12 or so. If you want it for a road car then you should be in the single digits. Whether it be 5 or more is really up to you. But as I said - find out what your current spring rate is and go from there.
  6. djr81

    First step is find out what spring rates you have there. I cant find a listing for APEXi N1 in an R32 GTST but it could be me failing at google. The rate "should" be written on the spring. Maybe 5kg/mm front & 4kg/mm rear or 10/8 or who knows. It is your start point. If the rate isn't shown measure the wire diameter and count the number of windings. That will allow an idea of what you have. The ones in your post above are 12kg/mm & 8kg/mm which is stiff. So if you want a decent ride you will be disappointed.
  7. djr81

    The look like APEXi N1 dampers.
  8. djr81

    So if you were in Auckland how much of that was spent going nowhere in traffic?
  9. 5.5 or 6kg/mm or thereabouts.
  10. djr81

    You mean these numbers?
  11. Don't leave it dripping as brake fluid will trash your paintwork.
  12. djr81

    So for a baseline do you have a dyno chart of the 384kW pull?
  13. djr81

    I used these folk. http://www.nzefi.com/products/fuel-system/fuel-system-injectors/vehicle-specific-injector-kits/
  14. djr81

    To use Rays as an example their CE28's have just about every PCD known to man shown on the rim. How they drill/forge/machine/make the hub determines the PCD and the offset (to an extent). It is the same forging which makes sense from a manufacturing point of view. So, for example the +22 & +15 CE28's shown below are the same forging, just machined 7mm different. You cant tell them apart from the outside, only by looking at the back of the hub. It also has 4x114.3, VIA, 5x100 & 4x100 shown on it. It is a 5x114.3 PCD rim.
  15. djr81

    I would recommend: 1. Take photos of it with an inch of dust on everything. 2. Repair it back to as stock as you can make it. 3. Call it a survivor car. 4. Profit.