djr81

Members
  • Content Count

    6,388
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Community Reputation

216 Excellent

About djr81

  • Rank
    Rank: RB30ET

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

10,352 profile views
  1. djr81

    As I said previously go and look at the Mishimoto catch cans.
  2. djr81

    The way it is set up is broadly the same as the NIsmo can if that makes you feel any better. You put a restrictor in it so the turbo doesnt hoover the guts out of your can and taking the oil with it. Dont use steel wool, use a sintered brass item as per mishimoto. https://www.mishimoto.com.au/automotive/oil-catch-cans.html
  3. djr81

    Looks ok in the tiny pic. Does it have a really small orifice plate in between the turbo inlet and the catch can?
  4. https://www.ozzytyres.com.au/tyres/?find=235-35-19-3105
  5. Where did you site your oil cooler?
  6. Sorry if I didnt look in the right spot - did you get the rims re-coated? If so is it powder coated. I only ask as I have some Bronze CE28's I want to turn into titanium silver CE28's.
  7. This may sound harsh but it is solid advice. Get a new workshop. You dont destroy a cam belt, lose compression and then start looking at injectors for the fault. BTW - it was their fault.
  8. djr81

    Only other thing I can think of is the seat angle on the sheel nuts may be wrong?
  9. djr81

    There are a number of brands of them. Surprisingly they are accurate enough for wheel nuts and such. I got mine from KC Tools but the usual suspects sell them too.
  10. djr81

    Also I use the steel version of these: http://www.arkdesign.co.jp/wheel.htm The long version to clear the longer Nismo nuts which suit the offset of the rim (The offsets are changed by Rays by machining more/less material from the wheel hub) And prior to that the project mu steel nuts but they rusted as the open ends stayed wet. What material are your nuts and are you sure the nut is not bottoming out on the stud and not seating the rim properly? Also I use a torque bar with a gun to do them up, this sort of thing: https://www.tridon.com.au/products/Toledo/18/332547/torque-products/466404/torque-extension-bars Supercheap have them for $45 ea. Probably get 20% off on Straya day. They are a special order anyway.
  11. djr81

    Its a GTR, it was built with twins and should stay that way. Just my opinion. Trouble being you wont get as good a result because the bolt up twins are getting pretty old. Not sure how long in the tooth the Garrett 707160- designs are now but it has to be 20 years atleast? Nearly everyone who advocates for singles runs E85. Do you want to got to that trouble for 400hp? If not what single are people recommending for 2.6 litres and 98 octane (Out of genuine interest).
  12. djr81

    From memory fronts and rears are different sized knurls. How much torque are you doing these things up with as that is usually the source of the problem.
  13. djr81

    YOu dont need an aircon guru. Seach for blend door actuator. Actually just read this. And this