djr81

Skylines are good for minimum track days cause mostly they are broken. Depends what you want from your track day. Because $100k of R32 goes pretty hard.

“It’s not very often you get to launch a car that will change the perception of the brand, and that’s exactly what we think the Stinger will do,” said Damien Meredith, Kia Australia’s chief operating officer. Whether it is any good or not is irrelevant. By the criteria Kia have jobs already done.

http://gtr-registry.com/en-r32-gtr-nismo.php

Best option is to not use aluminium nuts or a rattle gun without a torque bar. http://www.kctools.com.au/Products/impact-sockets/1-2-drive-torsion-bars/1-2-quot-drive-torsion-bar-2 You can find steel nuts, my recommendation is avoid the open ended ones. Water will pool in them followed by lovely orange streaks of rust. I got some ARK design ones ages ago. They are longer (50mm) to suit the longer Nismo studs. Cant remember from where maybe ebay maybe direct. http://www.arkdesign.co.jp/accessory.htm

The worst thing you can do is put pillow ball front joints in the car. It will change it so that every bump you go over will be amplified through the chassis and annoy the hell out of you. So don't do it. Other radius arms are fine without such joints also - nothing wrong with bushes. If you want to do something get good spring rates and good dampers and match them to sway bars. Good alignment (including ride height), low unsprung weight and no HICAS is about as good as you can hope for. As was said in the first reply - good tyres make a huge difference.

So in short it has been knocking and is now burning oil. Get a compression gauge and check the engine. Odds are you have damaged the ring lands in one or more pistons.

Yeah I realise that I was advocating buying a second hand GTR diff and shimming it tighter rather than spending large on a Nismo clunk fest.

You don't have to spend money on NIsmo tax. The stock GTR diff can be shimmed tighter for more LSD, albeit two way. Don't get a 2 way Nismo under any circumstances as even the 1.5 way is stupidly tight and goes clunkety clunkety cluck whenever your are foolish enough to try and turn a corner. May as well be welded shut for the vast amounts of understeer is causes.

Coarse is 1.0mm Fine is 0.75mm

Try searching for M7x20 set screw. http://championpartsonline.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=248_249&product_id=24996 These are the wrong length but you get the idea: http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Champion-Bolts-Nuts-M7x35-High-Tensile/17309

Just a marginally larger area under the curve for the same lift/stated duration. Wouldn't hurt but more like Tomei needs to freshen their product up a bit.

If I get high impedence injectors can I run them with an RB20/RB25 injector harness? Can I do this on a Power FC?

This sort of thing for injectors? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/fit-Nissan-Skyline-rb26dett-r33-r34-r32-Bosch-750cc-fuel-injectors-GTR-turbo-/201948838193?hash=item2f0516b931:g:D2IAAOSwB09YMPwG Or is there somewhere else recommended? Or do you/can you use an RB20 harness (My existing one is obviously pretty old and may not enjoy being messed with)

Yeah I don't really want to get into the tuna thing. Perth is a hopeless case when it comes to such discussions and the nonsense that gets talked about them does my head in (EG He is brilliant but doesn't answer his phone, only works for friends of friends, etc etc etc). Anyway the problem with the current setup broadly comes down to niceness, logging and the following on every full noise gear change.

I would like to make 500hp. I am not after screwing the last cent out of it but just want a decent result without going stupid.