djr81

Just for posterity I believe there to be an error in the location of the NIsmo bolt hole in the first drawing.

So why not find a tribologist and get the oil tested/checked/looked at?

This sort of thing? https://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-rb-1000ccmin-top-feed-direct-fit-fuel-injector-kit/

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Do what he said. Drop the oil. Look for go fast glitter. If you have a sump full of bits of metal/big end bearing you are up for a rebuild. You don't need to wait for the oil bypass to do this. You can do it now. If you have shiny metal bits in the oil and you have oil pressure back when you restart it then you have won.

Snobbery. By the way they made more AU's than any other model.

This is good advice. The only thing I would add is always use synthetic oil in a turbro.

Point shouldn't need to be made that the engineering in an AU is massively better than that in an F40, but there it is. So too the build quality. Still, pointing out the obvious may help someone out.

The colour code is in the middle of the vin plate. What colour is it in real life? KH2 - Gun Grey Metallic KG1 - Jet Silver Metallic KL0 - Spark Silver Metallic TH1 - Dark Blue Pearl AH3 - Red Pearl Metallic 732 - Black Pearl Metallic 326 - Crystal White BL0 - Greyish Blue Pearl (special order)

For what it is worth the Nismo 1.5 way I have is so fkn tight it may as well be a two way. Shits me to tears it does. Clunkety clunk clunk. It isn't just the ramp angle that is key here. The amount of preload on the clutch packs before you add the motors torque is also important. Get much of that and the diff will be an annoying clunkfest.

Nice. A 1980 Falcon based ESP? Good luck keeping the rust mites away and look after that interior! Oh and if you ever see and XE ESP with an EFI motor for sale please PM the crap out of me.

Thread needs more ESP pics.

It doesn't get launched very often, if at all. Not much interested in drags or hillclimbs. The Nismo clutch is good other than all that copper makes it feel sticky underfoot. Cost is not a huge issue but I don't think I really want to spend $5k on a clutch. Ill have a look at the Xtreme option. Thanks for the recommendation. I used to have a HKS twin plate which was pretty rattly but it had bugger all flywheel so got slipped a fair bit and hence worn out.

Maybe 500rwhp or thereabouts.

Which version of the drop ins do you have? A or B? Oh and good to see a dyno chart that is not a single and is on petrol. 👍