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Everything posted by djr81

  1. Sorry if I didnt look in the right spot - did you get the rims re-coated? If so is it powder coated. I only ask as I have some Bronze CE28's I want to turn into titanium silver CE28's.
  2. This may sound harsh but it is solid advice. Get a new workshop. You dont destroy a cam belt, lose compression and then start looking at injectors for the fault. BTW - it was their fault.
  3. djr81

    Only other thing I can think of is the seat angle on the sheel nuts may be wrong?
  4. djr81

    There are a number of brands of them. Surprisingly they are accurate enough for wheel nuts and such. I got mine from KC Tools but the usual suspects sell them too.
  5. djr81

    Also I use the steel version of these: The long version to clear the longer Nismo nuts which suit the offset of the rim (The offsets are changed by Rays by machining more/less material from the wheel hub) And prior to that the project mu steel nuts but they rusted as the open ends stayed wet. What material are your nuts and are you sure the nut is not bottoming out on the stud and not seating the rim properly? Also I use a torque bar with a gun to do them up, this sort of thing: Supercheap have them for $45 ea. Probably get 20% off on Straya day. They are a special order anyway.
  6. djr81

    Its a GTR, it was built with twins and should stay that way. Just my opinion. Trouble being you wont get as good a result because the bolt up twins are getting pretty old. Not sure how long in the tooth the Garrett 707160- designs are now but it has to be 20 years atleast? Nearly everyone who advocates for singles runs E85. Do you want to got to that trouble for 400hp? If not what single are people recommending for 2.6 litres and 98 octane (Out of genuine interest).
  7. djr81

    From memory fronts and rears are different sized knurls. How much torque are you doing these things up with as that is usually the source of the problem.
  8. djr81

    YOu dont need an aircon guru. Seach for blend door actuator. Actually just read this. And this
  9. djr81

    Video does not offer any insights into the six turbo option..... please keep posts on topic. Just because it is the poor blokes first post: The answer to your question is single. Now, by all means, carry on pisstaking.
  10. You are over thinking things. There is a difference between out of round distortion and change in diameter. Ring these people Talk to Trevor about end gaps and more importantly blowby. Or atleast leave a message for him and he will get back to you.
  11. Car looks nice. I’m in the throes of swapping a power fc for a link ecu so will be interested to hear your opinion on how the two compare. The only other comment is the front needs more neg camber GTR’s are bastards for understeer.
  12. djr81

    Can the thread have more XE Falcon?
  13. Think the problem is the spacer fits on the hub but not the rim. The other thing to keep in mind is do you have enough stud length?
  14. Not 100% sure on this but: You can get rims in 66.1mm diameter centre bore and you can get them in 73.1 diameter. You appear to have bought a spacer that allows fitting of one to the other
  15. djr81

    If the dampers are worn out then yes as you cant/wont get them rebuilt. You could maybe try and replace the dampers alone but to be honest it is just as cheap and a damn site easier to get a coil over package and be done with it. But start with the spring rates, work out your budget and reconcile with the fact that if you ask a dozen people you will get a dozen different answers none of which will be even close to the same. For example. If you were to go with a Nismo S spec set of springs/dampers they start at 4 & 3 kg/mm (If I read it correctly) which is at the low end of the range. MCA will spec something very different again and it varies with their intended use. The ones you were looking at were 12 & 8kg/mm which is pretty stiff. What you will mostly find is a front spring rate 1 or 2 kg/mm stiffer than the rear (MCA aside) and anywhere in a range from 5kg up to 12 or so. If you want it for a road car then you should be in the single digits. Whether it be 5 or more is really up to you. But as I said - find out what your current spring rate is and go from there.
  16. djr81

    First step is find out what spring rates you have there. I cant find a listing for APEXi N1 in an R32 GTST but it could be me failing at google. The rate "should" be written on the spring. Maybe 5kg/mm front & 4kg/mm rear or 10/8 or who knows. It is your start point. If the rate isn't shown measure the wire diameter and count the number of windings. That will allow an idea of what you have. The ones in your post above are 12kg/mm & 8kg/mm which is stiff. So if you want a decent ride you will be disappointed.
  17. djr81

    The look like APEXi N1 dampers.
  18. djr81

    So if you were in Auckland how much of that was spent going nowhere in traffic?
  19. 5.5 or 6kg/mm or thereabouts.
  20. djr81

    You mean these numbers?
  21. Don't leave it dripping as brake fluid will trash your paintwork.
  22. djr81

    So for a baseline do you have a dyno chart of the 384kW pull?
  23. djr81

    I used these folk.