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About 25GTV

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    Rank: RB25DET

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    R34 GTV
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  1. I will, being the std manifold its hard to get it somewhere that heat soak front the hotside wont affect it. I might try just before the throttle body.
  2. That's the plan for the future. For now I have an opportunity to drive the car real soon and I am just going to monitor temps with a spare sensor wired to my defi MFD.
  3. Certainly was my decision, not the tuners. Also, I'd imagine there are thousands of 34GTTs with platinum pros that have no IAT sensor...
  4. Yeah will do, missed it before the tune and said i would bring it back.
  5. MAP sensor. Didn't have an IAT stock and I haven't fitted one yet.
  6. Thanks! I understand how broard the question is but was hoping for some experiended guys to provide a rough guide. eg the 60 deg said above is a good rough place to start. I agree the e85 is the safety factor here as far as knock goes and on paper the hotter temp should mean lower density and less fuel required for that volume of air. Really, it should be rich when the temps get high. I'm going to fit a sensor now and see what they look like after a few hard laps. All I know is it appears to lose a little power and the temp on each side of the cooler becomes even after lots of laps.
  7. Hi guys, I have a r34 neo with a highflowed op6, E85, 3inch striaght through and a blitz rtn flow cooler. Platinum Pro ecu. Its a track drift car only. Around 245rwkw on 16psi but it tapers off boost in the top end. I monitor the coolant and oil temps now but I drift it in 2nd and 3rd gear for about 8 corners in a row with a tiny cool down on a 0.5km straight in between laps. The cooler does get some heat soak. I specifically want to know what sort of intake temps are acceptable and what would be a temp to stop and cool down the car at? Is there a general temp for this motor and fuel that means knock is imminent? Has anyone logged their intake air temps at the track with hard driving? Had a good 2hr search before posting this. Thanks in advance.
  8. Had these in storage for a while. Out of a 93 GTR with 45kms on it. In my opinion they are 9/10 condition. unrestored original condition. All I’ve done is vacuum them and the drivers side would respond well and brighten up to a steam clean. Fabric is tight and the bolsters aren’t worn. I was keeping them for a future resto build but I need the space. If you’ve got a 32gtr with rough seats this is the best thing you could do to it. $1650 Pickup from Sydney 2224
  9. I used another boost controller to monitor the boost at the turbo outlet compared to the manifold. The turbo hold 20.5psi from 4500 to 7000. The Manifold sees 16 at 4500 then instantly to 14 psi and 12.5 by 7000rpm.
  10. Has a kinagawa 12psi actuator. Greddy OLED Profec boost controller.
  11. Thanks GTSBoy, so is it a common problem that the return flow cooler setups cant flow enough air at that sort of power?
  12. Hi guys, This has been covered before but I have read through a bunch of the threads and not found the solution. I have a rb25det neo. Hypergear highflowed OP6, Front Mount rtn flow cooler, 1000cc injectors and e85, 3 inch exhaust (no cat). When tuned the car made 230kw on 14psi but when we added more boost it hit 16psi at 4200 than tapered down to 13psi by 5000rpm and 12psi by 7000rpm. I've removed all mufflers and have a steel intake pipe. If we set the boost control to 18psi it makes 250kw at 4500 rpm then falls to 12 psi and 200kw by 5500rpm. We think the turbo starts to cavitate. It doesnt misfire and does everything else perfectly. Could this turbo just be out of puff? What other common problems cause this?
  13. Hi guys, I own this now! Shes a little bit rougher than she was back then. I’ve been making some adjustments to make it slide better but mainly trying to stop it getting so hot after any sort of hard driving... There’s a skid vid on my insta @freeknight66 I’ve added an electric water pump and pulled the thermostat to try get the temps to stay down but so far it still loves to cook.
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