Moodles2

I don't know R34's well, but all Skylines have a thermofan infront of the aircon condensor (looks like a radiator). This will switch on automatically when either the aircon is on, or the coolant temperature reaches 95C+ (approx).

I'm in the same boat, HICAS hasn't given me any issues so I've left it as is.

Silicone vacuum hoses are very slippery, if it slips off the FPR you will lunch your engine

You use the brakes more than the clutch, brake fluid can get up to and perhaps beyond 250C under heavy conditions on the road (easily 300+ at the track) as it absorbs heat from the calipers, discs, and pads whereas clutch fluid just acts actuates the engagement of the clutch. So that's why clutch fluid stays the same color, whereas brake fluid will blacken over time.

Mines a standard '94 R32 GTR and I don't have brembos, as above only V-Spec & V-Spec II had brembos (and possibly N1 as well I'm not 100%)

Whatever is cheap, it can all be mixed as each DOT specification is chemically compatible. As long as you don't get DOT5 which is silicone based, DOT4 or DOT5.1 is what you want and both superior to DOT3 (I doubt you could find DOT3 anyway) If you are chewing through brake fluid, then you might have a leak somewhere in the brake lines, pinhole leak in a rubber hose for example.

Definitely change the fuel filter asap, it might be blocked with rubber debris from the blown hose.

You can turn the recirculation button on while the aircon/heater is turned off, it will stop passive air from coming from the vents.

By oil cooler, are you referring to the factory oil/water heat exchanger?

The sight glass is there, what do you see when you look in?

Pretty sure the apexi solenoid is just a standard mac valve, Vipec should control it no probs.

Soot and carbon buildup are a byproduct of the combustion process, if the oil is still honey colored after 5000km then there is 2 possibilities I can think of. The engine is extremely clean by engine health (good compression etc) and the tune itself (not overly rich etc) or the engine oil by design has minimal detergents for cleaning

The oil temp sensor (near the oil filter) might be disconnected, or even worse, faulty. Need to do some probing with the multimeter to rule out the oil temp sensor first before looking at the gauges.

Might be a problem with the G-sensors (under the centre console), usually they only play up if you've physically messed with them.

R12, but that gas isn't legal to use anymore.

Needs to be adjusted so it's around 0.44-0.48v at idle, and 4v+ at WOT.

Any MAP sensor based ECU like the D-jetro can run atmo BOV's no problem.

Check tyre pressures and make sure they're even front and back. If that is fine, then put the front wheels on the back and vice versa. Happens due to tyre tread wear, front and rear never wear evenly so over time a slight rolling diameter difference becomes bigger which makes ATTESA think the rears are slipping

red positive, black earth/ground, green I'm guessing would be illumination/dimming when headlights/parkers are on, yellow would be the signal wire. Probe the yellow wire with a multimeter at the gauge to see if there is any voltage signal (or resistance whatever the gauge uses), and probe at the temp sensor itself. Either gauge is dead, temp sensor is dead or the wiring inbetween is frayed.

It could be the AFMs are just too close to the turbos

It doesn't switch on unless the coolant temp is approx 95C+, I can't remember if this is true if the A/C is switched on (or if the A/C runs the fan regardless of coolant temp) .

Disconnect the battery terminals (or just 1), and pump the brake pedal afew times to discharge any power still lingering in the system.

Obviously you are using custom intake piping for that turbo, photos will help. You need to look at things like AFM reversion where the angle of the air should be pointing away from the AFMs (and towards the turbo) when returning via the plumbback, whether there are any bends after the AFMs etc.

I've used my A/C while at the track on 35C days and it was cold as it would be while driving about. But I do notice as I climb up the revs, the air gets warmer until 7k (pretty much full warm), then I enter a turn and exit and it's cold again. So I can confirm the A/C turns off at WOT.

Nismo Coppermix Twin Plate (competition-spec one)