Moodles2

This only applys if you still have the stock ECU. Your Skyline has a fuse box under the steering wheel, inside is the Consult port (aka diagnostic port). With a Consult USB cable (http://ecutalk.com/interface.aspx) you can connect a PC or laptop and read sensor values, do active tests etc as long as you have PC software like OBD ScanTech (free) or Nissan DataScan (commercial), this is a screen shot of Nissan DataScan (commercial version not the cut down evaluation version) with the page to cut off spark to cylinders, effectively disabling them.

Consult cable + laptop & a consult program (conzult, nissan datascan etc) that can shutdown 1 cylinder at a time would help too.

Awesome input, got a very good idea how it works now.

I've been told that Nissan engines that have automatic gearboxes mated to them, don't suffer from the valves smashing into the piston when the belt snaps or jumps some teeth, can't remember the explanation though.

machined them because they had rusted up in japan, and yep put the old brake pads back on

It's about 4-6hrs in labour, $1100 sounds about right if they are supplying everything, otherwise thats alittle high

The genuine oem Nissan and Gates belts are about the same price, I chose to go with the genuine belt as Nissan's genuine parts are really good, only downside to the Gates belt that I know of is that they are rather noisy until they are run-in

every 100,000km or 7 years is the general rule. The rubber degrades over time no matter how low kilometres you do. Most people here have probably had their skylines reach the 100,000km milestone with the factory fitted timing belt, 89 GTR for example that changed it this year.. that's coming 20 years old. Timing belt snaps and the valves smash into the piston, and takes a a piston or 2 with it. Tensioner/idler pulley seizes, the belt is locked in place and valves are smashed into the piston, and a takes a piston or 2 with it.

A knockoff of a shitty chinese turbo (KKR Style lol), I'm sure it will hold 2-3 psi reliably ('m im assuming the 0's you put on there was a mistake).. I wouldn't run even run 20psi through it unless you want your mechanic to replace the ebay special every few months. Go with a Garrett turbo or a jap turbo or if you insist on ebay specials, go with a genuine KKR (not that I'm recommending it at all) or just don't bother.

Same as water, about 82-85c

My compliance shop machined my crossdrilled rotors (front and rear) to pass inspection, rears still look ok but this is what the fronts looked like after 1 track day...

Quite normal, one of mine clips up but slips off, mechanic has same issue with his r32 gtr's airbox as well

GTRs have RB26DETT and are not NEO either. To tune it, first you need a tuneable ECU (Nistune if it's available, Apexi PowerFC another popular choice). With the stock ECU you will be able to up the boost but you'll need a electronic boost controller ($300) or a cheap manual boost controller ($20-$80) and set the boost no higher than 10psi as the stock turbo (I think 10psi is fairly safe for that turbo) does not like boost at all. Major service you're looking at about 1k minimum in parts + labour alone.. oil change, oil filter, fuel filter, brake fluid are part of SEVS scheme by the compliance shop.. though they use cheap fluids to do it though. This is what a 100k service kit looks like (and looking at about $600 in labour to have it done): http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ni...25det-p-91.html

Stock AFMs (same AFMs as the R32 GTR which max out at approx 300kw?) and -5 turbos.. are you sure they're not -7's? As for stalling, could be many things.. a inlet manifold leak, loose intercooler hose, alternator issue.. any black smoke when it's stalling.. condition of plugs?

I think I still have alot more to learn, all I can gather is the -9's lose heat efficiency around the 24-25psi mark.. was hoping to plot a line that a stock rb26 would represent roughly, starting from the lowest pressure ratio all the way as far as where the heat efficiency peaks at 2.5-2.65ish (pressure ratio)

Because of the age, my suspicion is the fuel pump

Does anyone know the value a mild RB26's corrected air flow would be to apply to the pictured compressor map (and the formula you used to work it out): (Garrett -9)

German company, made in Germany i'm pretty sure

The Garrett R34 N1 replacement is (should be the same spec): http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_7.htm

Another thing I thought of, maybe your car had been broken into and damaged the ignition barrel.. sounds like a bit of a nightmare to diagnose.

Stock wiring might not be up to the task of powering a slightly more uprated pump (dunno the differences between a Bosch 040 and a genuine stock pump)

If the pedal is going *all* the way to the firewall, you've either boiled your brake fluid or somehow let air in the system. UAS only make a brace for R33/R34s, only master cylinder stopper I know of for R32s is the Cusco ones. I put a Cusco one on my R32 GTR and it reduced my end pedal travel and made the engaging point much earlier and firmer (whereas it was pretty spongey before)

Try contacting HKS USA for english instructions.

If it's the HKS Kansai controller, it plugs into (well taps into anyway) the G-sensors underneath the center console, here it is pictured with the center console off, so the plugs you've got now might actually make some sense:

Almost always the speedo cable from the gearbox to the dash either needs to be fixed or replaced.