Moodles2

Mostly just triggers a redlight in the dash when the cat reaches 500c i think it was, though kinda useful if the cat ever got blocked up.

I'll refer you to this:

You've already got a RB26 there, 26/30 conversion (rb26 topend + rb30 bottom end) will see 400hp fairly comfortably with a pair of -5 garretts or a big single turbo.

With a comment like that I would probably walk away and find a new tuner who knows skylines. The best application of cam gears I think is shifting torque, best use of them I think is gaining more midrange torque without sacrificing any (or very little) highend power, as a result boost will come on quicker and car will be a much nicer daily. Whereas at the track you might want max power so sacrifice alittle midrange for max topend power.

I do the same, I wait till oil temp is at least 70c before my intake manifold sees any positive pressure from the turbos

I think Jap catbacks are the nicer sounding, australian made exhausts are almost always droning and awful sounding.

Best thing to do is jack the front up, get someone to full lock it to the right and see then. Else take the wheel off and look for a suspension component that is suspiciously polished from the rubber-metal contact.

You'll most likely best to stick to Apexi pods since you already have the Apexi elbows, other pods just don't bolt on unfortunately unless you have their elbows.

Just got a reply back from JB, myself is confirmed

I just emailed the form back to Dean and direct debited it tonight.

Times like this you really need a consult cable to check what the ECU reports the water temp as.

So umm, you didn't service it when you brought it? Whatever state your in, check that specific subsection on this forum for trusted mechanics/workshops (should be stickied up the top), do yourself a favour and don't take a skyline to some random mechanic, take it to someone who knows skylines.

When is the full ammount due? I've only put the deposit in

Standard boost should be 10-11psi with restrictor in place using the stock actuator, and without the restrictor: 1 bar (14.7psi)

Pages from R32 GTR manual, same applies though:

Check justjap's website, they have full silicon heaterhose kits.. but its probably not what your after since your after afew specific ones.

I think the speedo is the root of the problem, might need to look at replacing/fixing the speedo cable from the gearbox. I've never encounted a Nisssan auto box so I don't know exactly how they work, ECU might be a tad confused about the current speed and selecting the wrong gears

The 2 metal pieces are the brake shims (they are factory items and are meant to be taken off the old pads and put on the replacements pads), they're there to prevent audible vibration under braking (and are supposed to be greased as well). If the noise is bothering you, just put the shims back on and make sure to grease them with copper grease.

I had a bunch of fun last time I was at Collingrove for a previous come n try, I recommend it

The genuine stuff is roughly about $10 per litre (at trade, maybe $15ish non-trade) from Nissan Dealership (literally called Nissan Powersteering Fluid or also known as Matic D ATF) Something that meets Matic D (Matic J might be ok too) specs is ideal, but I think anything that meets Dexron III or Mercon specs should be fine too.

Know anyone with a Consult cable? otherwise put the ECU in diagnostic mode and grab any fault codes if they exist.

Nistune can defeat the limiter (infact set it to whatever you want, 0 - 514km/h). Can cut that ECU wire but I believe it messes with HICAS or specifically the speed sensitive steering (since it basically reports the car is going 0km/h all the time)

Give the oil pressure sender (near the oil filter) a good clean with contact cleaner

Only water carrying pipes I can think of around that area are the heater hoses

Profile mentions 94 BNR32, so you should have the R33 crank. The flat part on R33 (ie. where the pump is driven by) should be twice the width of the early R32 crank.. Late 32/33 (good) vs. Early 32 (bad)