rtune

I got mine, thanks, and looked at the install instructions. Can you explain what the wire to the instrument cluster is for? and on an R34, where does that wire go, somewhere to the MFD?

Can you elaborate? any way to tell if this is a flaw by looking at a non-broken one?

Please quote on shipped for the "nismo suspension stuff". I'll take it if shipping is reasonable. Is this for R34 or R33 though thanks

Anyone who could give you reliable advice would be busy making themselves millions in the fx market. my unreliable advice: the news this week is the USD is collapsing due to zero interest rate policy, and so the aud and nzd is benefiting against usd, but losing against euro, and especially yen.. I don't think this is gonna change. It isn't a seasonal thing. The yen is like the last big economy to hide money in, so if anything the yen might want to get even stronger. auctions.yahoo.co.jp = getting even more expensive. ebay.com & ebay.co.uk = getting cheaper (usd and brit pound are tanking harder than usd now).

got some pictures? or other details? really hard to know without details. however it is probably safe to say that if he wants to sell it with the least bother the value will be half of what you might expect when you look at what is for sale currently.

I know the v-cam kit has its own computer, but does anyone know if it also requires hks fcon engine ECU ? and, for bonus points, it replaces your cam cover, does it also require removal of the rocker valley cover? the few pics I see show an open valley ..

I would move to coogee or maroubra or randwick (or mascot) .. 20 mins is 20 mins, you are very near to the onramps to the freeway, and all the other pluses of the areas put them so far ahead of rockdale or brighton-le-sands it isn't funny. Especially if you're going to share. As far as prices they go something like coogee > randwick > maroubra > mascot if you want more ideas on the left of that equation, left of, "coogee" just post .. lol ..

I was thinking the same thing. No shortage of places that can do it. One problem is you lose those authentic rays stickers inside the wheels. Then there is the hassle of having the tires removed, the rims cleaned, dropped and picked up at the powder coating place, and the whole thing reversed.

thanks, so the 350z z33 stock rears are bolt on? you mean the rotors only - which are cheap as chips on ebay - or the complete set?

I'll probably be getting a big brake kit so if anyone wants right of first refusal on my r34 gtr set (which is in excellent condition) lemme know.

I have a set of 740s nismos yet to go in and I'm curious what the summary of the topic is as well.. someone has evidence that the latency reported by the pfc faq and everywhere else is actually better set to a different number?

thanks, Do you know an auction buying service "worth their fee"? because the one I use has been great but usually does small fluffy anime type collectibles, not car parts!

Since the car is R34 gtr, getting R33 rears would be a downgrade. But yeah, everything else makes sense. Now with the exchange rate a full 355/355 stoptech kit for $7k from UAS is actually cheaper here than getting them in the US let alone adding in freight and fiddling the declaration to avoid gst. The k-sport/g4 kit seems to have worked out for several people. I'm leaning towards getting stoptech front only and then checking on a track day to see if the rears are still balanced to the work the fronts are doing. If they are overheating then I could try either a caliper offset kit and better rotors from biot, or the stoptech rear set to complete the setup.

I don't know anything that wasn't told me by others here more knowledgeable! but the r34 workshop manual and (importantly) SUPPLEMENT which covers GTR are at scribd.com. They aren't great, they are far less detailed than (say) a USA manual for a nissan maxima, but they are a lot better than nothing.

It is impressive but the power band is very narrow. 1500 rpm only.. beyond 6000 you're going backwards.. Below 4000 there is no power..

different engine block, but same bore and stroke. Just reinforced.. and the pistons and rods are balanced. (not same as blue printing, really just the factory putting them into bins according to weight then pulling six from the same bin). I think a stock r34 will tune with a power fc to a bit less than a stock nur with the same basic set of mods (intake and exhaust). No idea what stock boost nur was set to, or whether or not it had the same boost restrictor installed.

I don't think it is any big deal to bypass the factory immobilizer. My 2001 r34 has the same immobilizer and it is totally bypassed by the after-market alarm. I even opened the steering column and pulled out the connector to the nats unit, the dash red led went out of course, but the car still started and ran. And of course you can plug in MINES or power-fc ECUs, and any r34 still starts. There is only a single wire linking the ECU to the NAT and I'm not even sure that the stock ECU needs a "yes" signal from that wire - the communication may be in the other direction only (ecu tells nat module a serial number). The NAT version used in the last of the r34s was pretty basic, the later versions in more modern nissans talk to a "body control" unit which allowed them more extensive control. so if you have a good alarm, get the nats unit bypassed, and that is the end of that. An auto electrician can do that by looking at the NAT chapter of the workshop manual, the circuit is all laid out there. You can then cut any keys you want.

If I get an auction buying service to pickup some 2nd hand rims with tires in japan, is there any gotchas involved in shipping -- other than basic cost? eg, do the tires require extra paperwork, ridiculous cleaning costs, or other hassles to get hold of?

Thanks, it does help. sounds like there are too many unknowns for a naive player.. race brakes sydney told me that they'd sting me for a grand a pair for custom brackets, then I'd have to buy dba rotors for the rear as well.. i am sure i could find the engineering for a lot less but you are right there are several traps along the way.

I don't know if came as an option, or is just an aftermarket brembo brake-upgrade kit that is otherwise available at a more reasonable cost [than the r34 kit is]. probably the latter.

That is what I have got, bolt ons, hubcentric, and the original studs will poke through the spacer, & into the holes that my LMGT4s have between the ones I use for bolting the wheel onto spacer. So I don't think cutting anything is necessary. I just need 5 more nuts per corner and I'm done.

The gran turismo kit at least the 355mm I got quoted on, is a 6-pot type-R monobloc front, not f50 front .. same with the typhoon kit - 6 pot, same caliper.

The Gran turismo kit is currently $3200 USD for the front (355mm), so I don't think it can be had for much less than $4500 locally with the dollar now. And a similar for the rear. This is 6-pot mono for the front .. So that is getting on for $9000 aud even with discounts. (UAS list a monster package at over $10.5k (8 pot front 380mm) but that price is already out of date, it will be near to $12k now.) Yeah the stock R34 brembos can be found for $whatever, I already have those! I'd sell them and buy the typhoon set. But Roy thinks it sounds like trouble..

I can get a brembo typhoon GT front and rear kit for ~$5000.. it has the same calipers and same rotor dia (355 front / 330 rear) as the r34 gran turismo brembo upgrade kit, which is ~$10000 now (or more). So does this mean the typhoon kit can be turned into an R34 kit, with four brackets, and different aluminum rotor center pieces? This 2006 topic says it may just be a case of custom brackets and a handbrake solution. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fo...amp;mode=linear $5000 is a lot of incentive to get some brackets copied (which brembo won't sell).

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