rtune

yeah the interface wows but it also continues to be useful after the wow factor wears off.. and the way all the apps use the same paradigm isn't bullshit, it makes them all really easy to pickup and figure out, from the first moment. But I see plenty of games that are just games.. no apple interface elements in sight. So it isn't a rule or anything, I think apps use the touch interface gadgets because it is the best way to deal with lots of info. my kid has been using kiddie apps on it since he was 2. He can unlock the phone, select the app he wants, use it, quit it, and go start another one.. all without me helping.

iphone the appstore makes it head and shoulders above the rest. they just added skype as an app. So now you can call international from a wifi point for pennies, the browser I think is unmatched by any other phone browser.. the games, at least, the time-wasting ones, are as good as the DS. You can't argue with in-built itunes and ipod, amazon has the kindle reader for it, the bloomberg app is amazing for financial news. get an optus contract and it is basically free.. if you can put up with optus not being so good in the country.. version 3 firmware addresses the last couple of key complaints (copy paste).. honestly I think only a perverse anti-apple attitude can rule it out.

I don't think it is a nissan policy, there are a nissan dealer or two in sydney that are familiar and willing to do such work on imported nissans. So I suggest you call the workshop of each dealer you can find until one says, ok, bring it by. They will need a specific software module for their service tool, the one dealing with the version of immobilizer you have.

I think $9k plus labor gets you to 300kw with some careful parts shopping? and I'm including a new clutch here. 370kw could be just another few thousand more, however to minimize the risk to the engine you could spend anywhere from $5k to $15k on opening up the block and doing various stuff.

Does the stock intercooler get really hot on inlet, and therefore is unable to suck away enough heat by the time the air gets to the outlet? if so, doesn't that indicate that the N1s are out of their efficiency island and have begun turning into air heaters? with an extra 400cc won't you be asking them to shift more air at the same PSI (relative to a 2.6) therefore you get inefficient faster than a 2.6 application ?

He recommended going map, ecu is hks f-con, but he just said it will feel different, and indicated I might not prefer it.

so far then .. it sounds all good. I wasn't told map has any "problems" but that it isn't a good choice if you plan to do mountain driving, as altitude (or big temp changes) muck with the tune vs maf. My tuner says map will "feel different" in a possibly negative way, he didn't elaborate. And people on sau have posted before that map is 'for race cars' and maf is for street, and someone else on sau said map didn't work as well with multiple throttle bodies. So I figured I'd ask if people had experienced a car before vs after with as much else the same.

I've done a search and seen it said that MAP loses some transient throttle response .. aka .. driveability. Has anyone experienced the before and after and can state clearly what it took away, if anything?

If you find the perfect garage that doesn't have a wait list to get in like a harley street specialist and also doesn't charge a fortune, lemme know. I've heard nightmare stories about half a dozen, and can relate with your story (your money wasted while they learn on your car) at three different sydney tuners that I've tried. In the end I think if you like the guy running the place you gotta give them a second chance as there is no online resource where you can short-cut lottery involved in going to a new one by reading a whole bunch of reviews. So to dismiss bel and go somewhere else, EVEN one recommended here by posters, you're rolling the dice again. by the way, what did they say when you calmly explained that you don't feel like paying for hours spent needlessly?

Vimeo.com handles many HD formats natively, and what it doesn't you can easily convert to.. give that a go..

bump. $2990 Would like the space the boxes are taking up, back, please.

what is it? a console & HDTV in front of a mock-up of an F1 car?or a dedicated sim not otherwise available on consoles or PCs? or something on hydraulics? need more info before bothering!

that topic is a year old!

mine is on an r34 so things might be different.. but, I find the chatter is only at idle in neutral. Sometimes you can silence it by prodding the clutch pedal then releasing so it grabs at a different point of the circumference. One thing I wanted to ask was do you find the nature of the grab point v different when the clutch is cold and when fully hot? not just warmed up, but heat-soaked hot. With mine, in that state, the clutch gets sticky and provokes driveline judder if you try to slip it a bit eg traveling at walking pace in heavy traffic..

mine is black.. which in the sun shows every tiny dust particle and smudge as if lit professionally & individually by studio experts using tiny arc lights, to best show their true dusty nature. did you mean the pics above posted by GTRNUR? in which case thats the millenium jade color because it's a nur.

I believe Evo magazine recently hailed the 370Z as the first 'hero' car for the year

you might not like the price but I think the place that does it best is the smash repair at 9 rawson st, auburn (on the corner by the divided road). They have a crap website auto salon d'elegance which you can google if you like, not that it gives much detail. Just turn up with your car and talk to the guy. They do a $1000 detail and wax, and you get two return visits free inside the first 12 months. They have a very nice facility and the place is full of bentleys, astons and so on. You did ask where does it best..

Is the current coppermix twin the same as the older g-max twin and is the current coppermix twin like this... My clutch has some rattle at idle at the lights. it slips fine when cold but when hot becomes quite grabby -- so that I find it difficult to ease it into motion from a stop without provoking drive-line shudder, to the extent the transmission (gear shift) will visibly judder up and down.. in other words, when hot there is just no more smooth slip available anymore. Just judder.. or fully "on".. of course after you are moving, or you take off fairly smartly, all is good. The judder is most difficult to avoid in fuel station forecourts, parking garages, etc. And only when really hot. Eg, after 30 minutes of driving or more.

ok no problem!!

maybe i am wrong but aren't your chosen turbos HKS 2530s equivalent, but GT-SS which have less lag make 320 awkw easily.. in fact there are a second hand pair in classifieds that made exactly that?

I'll be following the topic, so what are you aiming for awkw, and what RPM do you expect to lose in terms of coming onto 1bar of boost vs stock?

Yeah I can do that *please PM me*, I need your address, and some comfort you'll be sending the cash and include the shipping fee, which should be less than $20, 3 working days I'd guess. The sticker on the box says 414AN028 .. nissan skyline GT-R BNR34 made in japan 7H7261

you have to remove the aircon before removing the MFD. aircon can be removed by pulling out, with a hook. or the aforementioned screwdriver in the side, Then you get access to the MFD. as far as I know you can't get the MFD out without first removing the integrated aircon unit.

i can answer that and the answer is no, not unless you buy an third party IR gadget for the PS3 that plugs into a USB port. Then you can, as the 1000 has a learning mode, as well as all the built-in stuff.

Yeah I do. It looks ok but was concerned the finish on top would not be too nice as they were all meant to be painted. I'm getting the entire car cleaned up to the most extent possible and the place suggests respray the bonnet saying the paint looks too thin so it won't match the deep quality of a polish on the rest.. so if they want to strip it, I was toying with the idea of just getting a clear coat on the carbon.. as the car is black anyway .. Maybe the thin paint was kind of the point for v-spec 2.. kind of a feeble attempt at weight saving..