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ItzGenX

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About ItzGenX

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    Rank: RB20E

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  • Car(s)
    S14.5 AWD 2.8L RB26
  • Real Name
    Tai
  1. The sides of the bolt threads and countersunk holes do not show side thrust damage from oscillations. If it was, it didn't happen for long enough to show. I guess it was a bad set of bolts or torqued beyond it's yield point. I never touched the inner bolts at all. The only bolts I touched were on the outer ring to install the reluctor wheel. Seems to me there needs to be either more than 6 inner bolts, change to larger diameter bolts, or use a stronger bolt. So this even happens to other balancers? Wow, was I surprised when it let go. I was thinking "please don't be a hole in the block from 6psi...."
  2. Anyone ever hear of the Ross Tuffbond (Omega) balancers failing? Mine just completely came apart this weekend while powering down the highway. I was running on wastegate spring pressure of 6psi @ 5k RPM when it happened. The balancer has less than 3k miles on it with only a few high RPM pulls to 8500 of the 9th redline. I am in the warranty process where I have to send this thing back to Ross for inspection. However, I would love to hear thoughts and stories regarding balancer failures of this caliber. My engine stalled the second it happened since I use the trigger kit. I guess this kind of helps prevent further collateral damage, so there's a silver lining. I run all of the standard accessories that belong to the engine; alternator, water pump, ac, power steering. The only thing I can think of is I can feel slightly more vibration in the car when cruising with ac versus it off. Possibly the ac compressor compression strokes in it transferring too much force back into the balancer and eventually making the bolts sheer like a constant impact gun on it? The only things that can transfer load into the outer sleeve are the alternator, water pump, and ac. My belts weren't too tight either. I usually go easy on belt tension in fear of ruining front main bearings on engines. I run a Brian Crower 2.8L fully counterweighted bottom end, and the engine is solidly mounted to the car. See photos below:
  3. The KTS coils on my car can be adjusted at the mount base and the spring perch. The base is set all the way down to its lowest and the spring is barely preloaded at full extension to prevent loose spring clunks. You may be right in that different brands may have different shock tube lengths and travel. I wish there were measurement data sheets to all these coilovers so I can purchase something else without the gambling risk of buying blindly.
  4. Z32 vs BNR32 Coilovers Length My project car is an AWD S14 with full front BNR32 suspension including shock towers. It currently sits on a set of KTS coilovers for a Z32. On the lowest setting, my front ride height is an inch higher than where I would like it (3 finger gap). I can sag the spring lower to get it where I want it, but the car will basically be sitting on the bump stop bushings by the looks of it. This made me wonder if the R32 GTR coilovers have a shorter shock tube or not before I go buy a set. Has any one here noticed a shock length difference between z32 and r32 GTR front coilovers? Thanks!
  5. I leak tested this setup by removing the timing covers, timing belt, tensioner, and idler, then reinstalling the radiator. I poured water in the radiator, and shortly after, it would begin trickling out from below the water pump. Along the bottom perimeter of the pump was dry when I touched it with my hand, and the wetness definitely began a little lower, but I couldn't get at a good enough angle to see it. In order to view the area better, I took the water pump off. The problem with the pump off is that I can no longer test for the leak, since water will just come pouring out the openings instead. All I know is that it was this general area in question, and I wanted to know if anyone has ever had this problem or even knew what this little circular plug looking thing is. I can try putting the water pump back on and have someone hold a phone down there to record the area while I pour water back in. Either way, if its that plug thing, how do you remove it or reseal it? I am just trying to get a game plan for it if that's the case.
  6. That's a Nitto oil pump sitting below it. The water pump is removed in this picture, and it sits directly above in the outline of empty bolt holes.
  7. Hey guys. My RB26 block trickles water out the front behind the front cover when I put water in the radiator. I have pinpointed it out to be in a certain area of the front of the block, and it appears to be from a circular plug of some sort on the block (not a freeze/core/welch plug). I was wondering what this circular thing is, and is there a way to fix it? It appears to have a circular tooling mark like it was pressed in. I am not sure if it popped out or not. If I touch it by finger, it feels really solid and doesn't move. The water comes out at a rate of about a shot glass every 5-7 seconds or so. I have concluded that it is either a crack or this circular thing that is releasing water. I can't visually see a crack (unless it is hiding in that rough casting just below it). Any help figuring this out would be much appreciated. At worst case, I will need to purchase an N1 block and get it bored to 86.5mm to swap my 2.8L bottom end into. I am really trying to avoid that at all cost right now, so I would like to exhaust all avenues and options before pulling the motor for the millionth time.
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