LZY115

If you want a reaction, you have to use the middle finger.

Its working its working!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On the s15 the way the piping goes is the same. Its just that everything looks different. What I did wrong was joined the actuator wire, what I should have done was cut the wire off the ecu and joing it directly to the iebc. This thread saved me from constante swearing, thanks KiwiRS4T and guys.

Its working its working!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On the s15 the way the piping goes is the same. Its just that everything looks different. What I did wrong was joined the actuator wire, what I should have done was cut the wire off the ecu and joing it directly to the iebc. This thread saved me from constante swearing, thanks KiwiRS4T and guys.

^^^Makes sense I should be seeing infinite boost, almost 100% certain that its the electrical wire going to the solenoid or the solenoid itself. This is the pic of a s15 one, factory piping the top part (piping that is blocked) goes to the vac sour and actuator via t piece.

^^^^^^^^^^^Im probrably not getting full boost due to vent between the solenoid and the actuator?? Maybe the hole is too big, I might block the hole completly and see what occurs. Yeah, IEBC had 0% duty on all 64 points. Ill cut the wire of the ecu (O/b) and wire it directly to the IEBC and block the vent hole. In regards to the piping. Orginal: 1- solenoid to t piece which goes to vac source and actuator 2- solenoid to intake pipe IEBC: 1- solenoid to t piece which goes to actuator and vent goes to intake pipe 2- solenoid to vac source

^^^ Piping is correct, I dont think the solenoid is working,while listening there isn't that buzz noise the solenoid (I think) makes, s15 are a NC type, fusion on posts 16 17 on this thread had the same issue, their NC. So should i a)joing the solenoid wire to the ecu or b) cut the wire from the ecu and wire it directly the IEBC? In not too certain if this makes a difference but im running a haltech e8 with plug in adaptor for the wiring loom and map sensor, im almost sure that this wont make a difference. So far im only getting 5psi, the solenoid can only go two ways and I tried both, I still get 5psi. First Im going to check for blown fuses, then manually operate the solenoid to check for malfunctions, last will be the wiring. One last thing, the solenoid as two wires O and O/B, im assuming O is for earth?

In regards to my previous post the new boards do no have this problem. I finally got mine working. Things that I did wrong was bad solder, solder bridges, incorrect led installation, thats it, I do agree you do need some basic understand about electronics. Also you have to check with a multimeter for continuity (low ohms connection) between pin 4 of the LCD module in the hand controller and pin 13 of IC2 of the IEBC for low ohms. Also check for continuity between pin 6 of the LCD module and pin 10 of IC2, pin 14 of the LCD module and pin 9 of IC2, pin 13 of the LCD module and pin 8 of IC2, pin 12 of the LCD module and pin 7 of IC2 and also pin 11 of the LCD module and pin 6 of IC2. Make sure that there is not a short between adjacent connections. Everything is working except for the solenoid, tried it with hoses connect both ways and they dont work. Seem to be getting 5psi only. Not too certain is this has anything to do with me running a haltech. Is there a problem in using injector 2, i can not locate injector 1 on the ecm loom(s15) 101 W/G, pin out 101 on mine is W/Black.

Ok guys from what I have been told there have been some updates on the board used for the hand controller. https://secure.vividcluster.crox.net.au/jay...Name=Automotive

Link 2 negative --- solenoid stays shut with 0% duty cycle and stays fully open at 100% duty cycle positive --- solenoid stays open with 0% duty cycle and stays fully closed at 100% duty cycle The manual recommends you leave it as negative, this may not be the case with your problem, also check if your actuator is a "normal open" or normally closed which is preferable. Link1 and 3 should be left out. Link 4 should be negative and 5 positive

Thx KiwiRS4T, I did plug the iebc with the hand controller before turning the power on and I adjusted the trimpod but all I got was boxes, in that pics I have the IC's in the wrong place but they originally in the correct place(I swapped them around just to check if the instructions were incorrect). In regards to the Links you can adjust these even if your not using them Anyway the PCB is melted from 12v, i think I left the low high boost in-between (i think), whats interesting is I didn't blown the fuse. I have some question for my second kit! The 3 red leds, do they go only one way as the diagram is showing A and flat side K. The 22 crystalls (<X2 10Mhz> and <X1 20Mhz>) from the diagram the one closes to the port shows a link nex to the crystall and, bottom right shows the other crystall with links, are these supposto to be fused on? The resistors, can they go both ways? And last whats the trimpod on the IEBC used for?

I have a problem with this ebc. Followed the instructions, did exactly what it told me to do, I never done electronics since year 10, I'm 110% certain that I have the correct port. So this is what I bought: Finishing soldering connect 12v to accessories and earth to see that the ebc and hand controller are in good working order. Turned the ignition on and I got black boxes, double checked everything to see if I had the correct port plug (which I did), could no make what the problem was. On the IEBC the led closes to port (from this picture top right corner) was on, also the instruction manual says that IC1 has a dot and IC2 has a line but the chips on my kit didn't have that so swapped IC1 with IC2 while testing to see if this was the cause of my problem, and then some component fused out (don't no which one) so now I'm not getting power to the hand controller, included some high resolution pics. I still get the red led on but the big capacitor (bottom right, looks like a battery) does not heat up like usual.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...es-t232459.html

defamation = the communication of a statement that makes a false claim, e.g. lying in regards to a certain aspect of a object. lying = A lie is a type of deception in the form of an untruthful statement with the intention to deceive, often with the further intention to maintain a secret or reputation, or to avoid punishment. Do you get it, when your saying that these tires are semi slicks you are lying... Get it?

So he can say there semis even though there not? After the fourth lap those tires are and this isnt defamation people.

Hi, Would you have results for a 200sx? Also these figures 3,133 etc, are they in kgf/m?

The reason why I did not choose the rs's is because of their and your defamatory statements about them being a semi slick, they are not a proper semi-slick, they are a good tyre dont get me wrong but you should do some more research and stop with the lies.

In regards to project mu rotors, do the hats change the offset between the rim and the caliper? Also, Is there a place that makes brake adaptors, I want to adopt my standard brakes but use bigger rotors.

^^^^ its not really were the number plate is but at what degre the plate is facing.

I disagree, modified gtr's can suffer from oil starvation, its always good to be prepared (or you will end up looking like the rx7 guy)

This occurs in a lot of other popular racing events but they overcome this by penalising the car with the advantage by increasing weight / decreasing horsepower etc.

Im so over V8's and their prehistoric rules,

Were where all the V8's??

Edit: Double post sorry

Street tires have come a long way, my old man telling me in the 70's radial tires could beraly support 1g, now their over 2.5g so its not that far off from slicks besides the fact that slicks take longer to heat up. Perhaps the next best thing would be to invest in drag coefficiency over power mods.