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About Ty1

  • Rank
    Rank: RB25DET
  • Birthday 07/07/1986

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  • Interests
    skylines!!! and many other things as well

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  • Car(s)
    R33 GTS-T S1
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  1. Fair enough man. I must be one of the lucky ones then. I've had mine for 7 years now and no issues with the motor at all. Its sitting on almost 200,000 kms (which isnt low mileage) with 150psi compression on all cylinders. Admittedly ive only been running around 230hp but recently upgraded a few parts and now sitting on 370hp so will be interesting to see how long it does last. But like with every other car motor on the planet they all require a rebuild at one point or another so you cant really single out the rb's as being unreliable. Obviously there are much stronger motors out there.
  2. I Should of been more specific lol yes the capacitors need to be replaced which is like a $1 part and not a big job at all. Best to take it to someone who specialises in these sort of repairs unless your super confident with a soldering iron. With the board being made of fibreglass it can generally withstand a bit of corrosion and be cleaned up without damaging it. For anyone in brisbane, i took mine to pcb repairs at jindalee. Cant recommend them enough [emoji106]
  3. Hey everyone! This isn't really a tutorial as such but hopefully this will help out other fellow skyline owners with this very annoying and sometimes misdiagnosed issue. After replacing all the seals in the power steering pump, replacing the fluid, all power steering hoses and tie rods/rod ends i was at my wits end. My issue had been going on intermittently for around 2 years but suddenly started to happen more often. In car parks and low speeds it seriously felt like driving a fu#@ing tank! There were a couple of threads which lightly touched base on this and recommended getting into the hicas diagnostics, which sounds like a painful process and really wouldnt be able to tell you a fault within the hicas ecu itself. Even with my hicas electronically locked, the ecu still controls the power steering. Most of you probably already know, but the hicas ecu is located in the boot just above the fuel tank. After pulling it apart on the weekend i could see straight away that 2 of the capacitors had leaked onto the board therefore giving my ps mixed signal(in the first pic its the 2 capacitors on the right with the brown corrosive gunk underneath them). i've attached some pics so others know exactly what to look out for [emoji5]
  4. These engines are rubbish and always have problems? What drugs are you on if you dont mind me asking lol
  5. loving the new machine head!!
  6. Hey guys I've done a search on google but can only find so much. Since you can adjust the idle on the pfc hand controller, does that make the idle adjust screw on the aac valve redundant? Mine is wound all the way in at the moment and my idle is sitting on around 830rpm which I'm satisfied with. Just wondering if theres a negative affect by having that screw wound all the way in. Cheers!
  7. Sometimes its the little things that cause the most grief lol at least its sorted now [emoji106][emoji5]
  8. Cheers for the advice guys [emoji5] will look into some heat shield wrap as a temp solution and see how that goes. I eventually want to replace it with a section of alloy pipe just to be safe
  9. That is very strange then and would eliminate the coilovers. Are you certain what side of the car that the noise is coming from?
  10. Hey man what brand are your coilovers? i had a very similar knocking noise to you but mine was in the front end. I literally felt like burning the car to the ground...it was that frustrating lol for me anyway it turned out to be a shot coilover which a certain suspension workshop completely missed. By looking at the coilover there were no visible signs of damage or any leaks but internally the piston had failed so i managed to replace the cartridge with a brand new one (bc/br coilover)
  11. Hi guys, I've just replaced the stock turbo on my r33 gtst with a td06 as well as a few other upgrades. With the intake housing of the turbo i ended up using a 90 degree silicone joiner to a small section of alloy pipe to hook it up to the intercooler piping. My question is how heat resistant is silicone? I've done searches on google but want to know if anyone else has a similar setup to mine and if its an issue using a silicone joiner so close to the exhaust manifold. The way the turbo is positioned, the silicone pipe sits around 10mm from the exhaust manifold which ive had ceramic coated so it does trap a lot of the heat inside of it. Any advice would be much appreciated.
  12. That hose is a prick to replace [emoji21] i just replaced mine while i had the head off so it was super easy [emoji5] i actually replaced that entire metal coolant line and the rubber hose section with a braided line which can be purchased from most autobarn stores [emoji106]
  13. Hey man i had this same question recently too and the only way to get around this is either buy brand new or 2nd hand stalks with less wear on the symbols. As im really pedantic i opted to buy a brand new indicator stalk with the fog light switch for about $150 from nissan. Now i have to get a new wiper stalk as it looks really faded compared to the indicator lol last i checked they sell for about $180 [emoji37]
  14. I managed to source a windscreen seal for my r33 from clark rubber. Only cost me around $20. They have quite a big range there so just take in an offcut of your existing rubber seal [emoji5]
  15. Ceramic coating is seriously one of the best things you can do for manifolds or any exhaust parts. Increases the lifespan whilst maximizing heat transfer. Not too expensive either. Cost me $200 to get the manifold coated