• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

12 Good

About Ty1

  • Rank
    Rank: RB25DET
  • Birthday 07/07/1986

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    skylines!!! and many other things as well

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    R33 GTS-T S1
  • Real Name

Recent Profile Visitors

6,322 profile views
  1. Hey man i had this same question recently too and the only way to get around this is either buy brand new or 2nd hand stalks with less wear on the symbols. As im really pedantic i opted to buy a brand new indicator stalk with the fog light switch for about $150 from nissan. Now i have to get a new wiper stalk as it looks really faded compared to the indicator lol last i checked they sell for about $180 [emoji37]
  2. I managed to source a windscreen seal for my r33 from clark rubber. Only cost me around $20. They have quite a big range there so just take in an offcut of your existing rubber seal [emoji5]
  3. Ceramic coating is seriously one of the best things you can do for manifolds or any exhaust parts. Increases the lifespan whilst maximizing heat transfer. Not too expensive either. Cost me $200 to get the manifold coated
  4. Apparently you can still get them new from nissan for $300-$500 lol
  5. On the dump pipe, the gasket fits perfectly. No over hanging at all. Surely the wastegate flapper wouldnt open more than 90 degrees anyway. Will bolt it all up and let everyone know how it goes. [emoji120]
  6. Also agree with Stock replacement manifold. Get it ceramic coated too [emoji5][emoji106] they look 100 times better.
  7. Good morning everyone! in the process of fitting my new turbo and just noticed that the wastegate flapper just interferes with the dump pipe gasket. Im not sure how far they open when under boost but do they generally open up this far? The gasket that was supplied with the turbo looked cheap so i purchased a new genuine nissan gasket instead. Also is it a big deal if the gasket sits over the flange by a couple of mm?
  8. Ive done a fair bit of googling and sau browsing on this issue and cant find a definitive answer. So im in the process of fitting a kinugawa td06h-20g (journal bearing) on my r33 and not sure on whether i need an inline restrictor. Too much oil and it will blow the seals and not enough oil and it wont be sufficiently lubricated so i want to try and get it spot on. Im still running the stock rb25 oil pump with no oil pressure issues whatsoever. The oil feed port on the turbo itself has a built in restrictor (1.5mm) is this sufficient or should i fit another 1.5mm restrictor on the turbo end of the braided oil line. The hoses i purchased are genuine earls brand and the oil feed line is a 4an size hose.
  9. Super tidy gtr![emoji7] i admire your attention to detail [emoji108]
  10. Mission accomplished! Thanks guys for your help [emoji5]
  11. Ahh ok i understand now [emoji5] will let everyone know how it goes [emoji106]
  12. In relation to that grey wire i didnt think i would need to splice into it as the relay has a ground cable which ive already attached to the chassis (picture attached) Thanks for your informative reply duncan. From all the posts ive read about the fuel pump mod there hasnt been any mention of tapping into the fuel pump relay. I was under the impression that i only had to tap into those two bigger wires coming out of the fuel tank. Is the fuel pump relay the only safe way of doing it?
  13. Hey everyone. Just in the process of doing the fuel pump mod on an r33 gtst and just want to double check that im doing it right as im pretty bad when it comes to anything electrical lol ive searched all over the forums but im wanting to be 100% sure. So im basically left with these 2 wires...a red wire which im sure splices into the blue (power) wire which ive already snipped. But i just need confirmation that the red and black wire does splice into the white (ground) wire as these instructions i have specify to splice into an ecu signal wire, not a ground wire. Ive attached pictures of my setup so any input would be greatly appreciated [emoji5] thanks!
  14. From memory It literally just twisted straight out quite easily
  15. You stated in your original post how the car was running great for a period of 10 months until you added the remainder of the e85 treatment. I still cant comprehend why anyone would add that additive to a car thats not tuned on e85 even if it doesn't have a warning label stating not to use on unleaded cars. Why didnt you just buy the nulon unleaded fuel treatment? It's almost like running diesel fuel in an unleaded car (probably a bit of an extreme example but you get the idea).