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About Ty1

  • Rank
    Rank: RB25DET
  • Birthday 07/07/1986

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  • Interests
    skylines!!! and many other things as well

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    R33 GTS-T S1
  • Real Name

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  1. Ty1

    Cheers man! [emoji5][emoji106]
  2. Ahh bugger... posted in wrong section lol was meant to be in 'what music are you listening to'
  3. This is the image he should of originally gone for. Would of sold millions!!
  4. All good man. Yep there the ones [emoji5][emoji106]
  5. The actual nismo stick-on end caps through nissan?? Im talking about the caps with the word 'nismo' printed on them. I know you can still get the ones with gtr printed on them but i havent seen brand new nismo ones for years now [emoji22]
  6. I've never had to remove one but to me it looks like they sort of clip in as i was able to slightly move it up and down while applying the garnish
  7. Your right with the older ones looking tougher. I do prefer how the older one is actually a thicker sticker. I felt ripped off when i saw how thin the new one was lol and hopefully the 'o' is less susceptible to fading compared to the older nismo logo, which was my main reason for replacing them. Now If only they re-released the 'nismo' gtr wing end caps with the new logo [emoji57]
  8. Hey everyone, as some of you know the 'old' style nismo carbon garnish doesnt age the greatest and looked quite cheap after a while. After seeing the new nismo logo, i knew i had to have a set. I've taken a couple of pics for comparisons...even though the differences are subtle, the new logo sits up a tad higher and seems to be of a much better quality. This is on an r33 gtst
  9. Ty1

    Spotted a few skylines at powercruise last weekend. Bayside Blue r34gtr, a 4 door 33 and a couple of black r33 gtst's. I was out on the track also in a black 33 with the plates tyz33
  10. Ty1

    Hey man If your located in brisbane i can look at the car for you and at least point you in the right direction [emoji106]
  11. Ty1

    Where abouts did you get this done? And these are new struts yeah? or did you end up managing to reuse the factory ones?
  12. loving the build so far! very tidy looking 4 door man...keep up the good work
  13. Ty1

    Mods: S1 RB25DET, kinugawa td06-20g internally gated and rear housing ported and ceramic coated, ceramic coated factory exhaust manifold, 3" turbo back exhaust, FMIC, cai, nismo 740cc injectors, walbro 460 with fuel pump mod, nismo fuel reg, turbosmart boost tee, power fc, splitfires Fuel: caltex e85 Power: 304rwkw on 18psi Oil: penrite 10 tenths 10w40 Usage: daily Lifespan: had the car for 8 years now but its only been 6 months since running with 300kw. No issues at all so far [emoji5] Failure: nil
  14. I got mine from tog auto group at underwood [emoji106]not sure if this is the only colour they supply though...
  15. Tools required: Heat gun/big oven, grinder, drill and a basic tool set. Time: half a day if you really take your time I believe there is already a diy on how to remove the headlights from the car so please refer to that. This retrofit was achieved by using the morimoto mini 7.0 h1 bi-xenon kit which i purchased off ebay for $180 inc shipping from the u.s. There is also a diy for r32 headlights but i can confirm this kit works on r33 s2 headlights. The kit literally comes with everything required to install the projectors, including new sealant to go around the headlight lenses. This tutorial is assuming you have already installed aftermarket hid ballasts and bulbs, which is the easy part anyway [emoji5]. Not sure if the r33 s1 headlights can still retain the factory reflector housing but not much modifying was required for the s2. Firstly you want to remove the headlights and remove each metal retaining clip around each headlight and then put them in an oven for about 5-10 minutes to soften the sealant and then carefully pry the lenses off bit by bit. in my case i had to use a heat gun as my oven was too small[emoji54] now you want to remove the factory bulb holder on the back of the headlight which is held in by 2 little screws. You wont be reusing this part as the kit is supplied with a new one. To remove the reflector housing i found that by loosening the horizontal and vertical headlight adjustments on the back, it was much easier to just pop it off the ball joint as seen in the pictures. Just be careful not to lose the adjustment nuts as you will be reusing them. now see the raised plastic bits on the back of the reflector housing? You want to grind these off and have the surface as flat as possible so the tightening nut has enough room to get a secure hold on the back of the projector. Before putting the projector in, you want to screw the projector housing on with the supplied screws. I opted for the mini gattling shroud and couldnt be happier with it! In order for the back of the projector to go through the hole in the back of the reflector housing, you will need to slightly enlarge this hole with either a dremel or a drill bit but be careful to not crack or chip the housing as its only fiberglass. Now to pop the projector in the reflector housing while making sure its mounted the right way and also remembering to put the adjustment nuts back in. There is an 'up' marking on the projector so you cant really stuff this up. Also,refer to the instructions that came with the kit as you dont want to redo this later. I also used the supplied rubber washer when tightening the nut. You want to make sure the nut is really secured with a shifter as the last thing you want is for the projector to come loose and have to reopen the headlight to tighten it up again. With this kit there is also an option to wire it up so the projector stays on when the highbeams are switched on. I skipped this part as its not necessary and didnt really appeal to me. A hole would most likely have to be drilled in the reflector housing to run the supplied wiring harness out the back of the headlight. Once the projector is in, you want to run a length of the supplied rubber sealant around the entire headlight and try to push it in the groove as much as possible. I removed as much of the old sealant as i could but you dont have to worry about removing every last bit. Ive washed my car several times and driven in the rain with no leaks what so ever. Now with your heatgun you want to heat up this sealant and press the lense back in with as little mess as possible. Dont worry if some sealant presses out as it can be cut off with a knife once its hardened and made to look like a factory finish. I went around the lense a few times with the heat gun and put each retaining clip back on, working from the center out. Once its all back together you will definitely need to find a flat surface with a concrete wall or garage door and park roughly 6-7 metres from the wall to readjust the headlights. Proper instructions/methods can be found on google for this step. Now to enjoy having much better visibility at night [emoji5][emoji5]