wht510

Heya Stabby man. Yes, your thought process is along mine aswell. I thought it was a vacuum leak somewhere initially, and found a hose that I thought was causing the problem that was going to the OEM ECU boost sensor, but after replacing said tube, the issue is still there. Now working with my local trusted mechanic, I have had plugs replaced , the issue still exists. I am currently using 'Hanshin' coils from Ebay (supposedly the same as OEM...) and currently suspect these may be causing the issue. Does anyone have a cheap way of buying OEM Nissan coils. Currently Kudos Motorsport have them for $136.40 (NIS-22448-AL61C) The frustrating thing with this is it's intermittent. The car will idle fine, but then all of a sudden miss and stumble. The only reliable thing is when it's under load it will miss. Thinking this is coils currently.

I'm still having this issue. I've checked all the plugs, replaced all the coils (thinking it was a bad coil and I had done 150K on them...) For some reason it's an intermittent fault. It happens when the car is idling (cold), feels like it's missing, but it's not regular. Then under full throttle (so boost) it will miss regularly. No fault codes, no engine light. Does anyone have any thoughts?

Is it going to be easy to sneak an intercooler in there?

It is interesting, the dynamic currently. I think with the camera/database and automated method of checking number plates, they already know what kind of driver you are (speeding fines, previous defects, how often you have been to the toilet today, etc.) Any flags and they go for it. So they already know you and your car. Otherwise, it's probably discretionary..... "Quiet day Sergeant isn't it? Yep, OH, there's a Datsun 1600, used to have one of them...let's pull 'em over and see what's under the bonnet...." "Cheeesuss... Must go alright?....." "Seems like a nice respectful bloke, let's give him a random breath test and let him go..." Is usually what I get.

That 86 moves well. What sort of power you putting out?

Anyone got one of these unreliable OEM boost senders? I haz gauges that have no sender... Plug and loom would be handy too...

Only as good as your right foot...

Was doing a bit of searching and found this: https://rdmechanicalshop.com/2015/12/22/m35manual/ Looks like using the 350Z gearbox for RWD and shifting the starter motor (G35 US) over to the other side works well. Anyone contemplated using the R33 GTR box or R34 GTR 6 speed Getrag for the AWD action?

Can anyone confirm the part numbers for Ignition Coil packs for the VQ25DET for the NM35 Stagea? 22448AL615 22448AL61C Hitachi part: HEXEXA3103N Supposedly there is a difference between the turbo and non turbo versions?

I am having a similar issue, but it's only missing under load. When it starts making boost, it seems that it starts to have a miss. The interesting thing is I ended up getting a fault code a couple of times indicating a coil issue before this missing under load started, which I have cleared, reset, dropped the power from the battery and everything goes back to normal. The coil issue would only happen after leaving the car for a while, starting and then it would run rough (like one cylinder was down), then all of a sudden come good, but the engine check light would come up.

For those who are following at home: http://aimss.com.au/full-story-competition-harness-life-extension/

Good write up. Order is pretty much right. So if you are going to try this at home, I suggest leaving at least 5-6 hours, which includes a bit of swearing, dropping tools/bolts and stuff in general and degreasing everything. Those bolts at the back of the plenum are sure to be broken once you have a crack at them with the 10mm spanner/socket. So get a few spare for this job. Squirt a bit of WD40 before you consider doing this job! Probably crack them when the manifold is hot!

Right here is some digging: Over in NZ they have a listing for an NS40L which is a 330CCA (if you get a beefy one it's about 380CCA). I think this is the standard size. Dimensions for this are: L = 187, W = 127, H = 220. Terminals are 10mm (diameter??) and on the correct side. The recommendation to upgrade in CCA size is the following: NS60L (Exide part number X60CPMF, or 60CPMF, Century NS60LSX MF, or NS60LS MF) This is a 450 or 480CCA battery with dimensions being: L = 237, W = 128, H = 222. Terminals are the same as above Interestingly, this is the same battery as a Nissan Tiida 2000-2006.

Curious to know if a Nissan 350Z battery would fit in an NM35 VQ25DET?

Does anyone have the part number(s) for a seal kit for the front brake calipers? I rang nissan up and they quoted a part number: AY600NS013. This is 2-3 weeks from Japan! Surely this should be the same seal kit as the 350Z? Another website was quoting 41120-AL525, but I have been told this is for a Nissan Juke.

Firstly, a long piece of brass like this is going to pull heat when air is flowing past it, so you aren't going to get a true reading of your oil temperature. What you have here would only be measuring heat conduction of the oil housing and the associated stagnant oil. Mounting your pressure sensor on something like this is OK, but mounting the temperature is going to give false readings. Be wary of vibration on long brass fittings like this. They can crack and then you have oil everywhere and a seized engine. This could explain your low readings. Secondly, you aren't going to get oil reaching the sensor that is a true representation of engine oil temperature. You want the temperature sensor to be mounted as close to the oil running past it as possible. Regarding your other post: IMHO you should be measuring the temperature of the oil before the oil cooler. You want to know the oil temperature of the oil as it comes out of the engine after doing all the work. If it's hot, it's hot regardless if you have the cooler working or not.

You will have trouble with the following: (Depending on your RWC guy/gal) 1. Injectors. Anything with different injectors is a fail. You may be able to get away with it IF they aren't visible... 2. Suspension upgrades (no coil overs, must be OEM) 3. Aftermarket exhaust. Needs to be factory, or proven to be under the sound limit and emissions. You pick which one. Either is expensive... You may be easier to get something CAT back and just prove the sound limit. Anything to do with aftermarket Catalytic converters, usually means trouble and requires an engineers sign off.. $$$ 4. Larger Turbo (if they know what it looks like compared to factory). So no high mount/twin scroll polished nastiness! 5. Air intake upgrade may require investigation, but could be OK. If you are running the standard intercooler, then you should be OK. 6. Brake Upgrades... Forget it. These will have to be converted back to OEM unless you can prove the car stops the same and you haven't affected ABS etc. Any RWC will put a cross against this. 7. Based on a quick look at your photos, the catch can cannot vent to atmosphere. You must have it plumbed back to where the factory point is. Nothing wrong with running a catch can, it just can't vent to atmosphere... 8. Wheels: Check to see whether the rolling diameter isn't different by more than (damn I can't remember) X%. and the width needs to be checked. 9. Boost controllers, aftermarket ECU's. Forget it. These will have to be replaced with OEM stuff. Hope this helps.

Stripey: Yep. I reckon 19's are the way to go... 19x9.5... Not my car, so if you are the owner, tell me if you want this image removed (although I found it on this site!)

These are a good thing. GLWS

Thanks Scotty!

So there isn't a loom that is common across all cars. The cars that have the 3 gauge will have the plug and the ones that don't obviously don't. Where is the boost sensor located on the VQ25DET? I thought if you didn't have the gauges, you didn't have the gauge sensor. (hoping to be wrong!)

Hi Scotty. Ball joints are going great btw... Not 100% sure what you mean. There wont be a signal for the torque split at both the loom out OR the attessa ECU? So basically that gauge DIN I bought from you isn't going to work...

Is the boost gauge sensor on all NM35's or do you have to fit it? Where would I find it in the engine bay? I've got the 3 gauge single DIN (not fitted) and i'm hoping to replace my double din with a single din CD player and the gauges... Would the loom be there?

No photos anymore?

Anyone know if there is an Australian Re-seller for these?