slippylotion

Bigger injectors without a tune will make it run rich and more than likely foul the plugs causing a misfire. I don't mean any disrespect but if you have done this maybe you should research things a bit more first before doing upgrades like this. Saves you any dramas.

Is that him?

Ask Tommy Kaira RL (brad) how the response and power delivery is as he has a 2871r upgrade on his.

Well just pulled out the pump assmb to send off monday. nice easy job taking only 30mins and most of that spent getting tools ready and car on the ramps. Fingers crossed its only the pressure switch to make it a cheap fix.

From the wheels sizes I looked at I thing the 2860rs aka disco spud is closest but between the two you've listed it would be the 2871r.

I can't believe the amount of people you come across that can't pronounce it. The other one people always get wrong it Cefiro. They say cef eye ro, wtf. But yes, it's stay-ja

The 180 is 8mm and I think the stagea is alo but I haven't gone to look yet. I'll check in the morning.

Welcome to the stagea club. They come from factory with a blow off valve ( dump valve) but its recurculating type as they need to be for legalities. The sat nav will not work in Australia as no maps to suit are not available nor are they likely to be. Yes the ARX looks good lowered with the plastic over fenders. Look through the thread of pics of your ride and you'll see some members cars. First mods people do and will tell you to do are, a/market dump pipe (3 versions available in oz) Transgo shift kit and trans cooler, good air filter and cold air duct and then I'd fit a plenum spacer. From there it's suspension and swaybars. Enjoy, heaps of helpfull guys on here but make sure to have a good search first for any questions as most of its been covered before. Cheers.

I ordered some aeroflow 1/8 npt to 5/16 hose barb fittings in anodized black from outlaw speed shop. The fuel hose is 5/16 or 8ish mm.

Yeah, hope to fit my fpr next week and set. Cars still a long way off from going though ? What type of fitting did you get? Just hose barb end or push lock or dash styles?

43.5psi with the pressure line disconnected from the reg at idle.

Nismo bushes are better than the poly bushes as not as harsh for a daily driven car but still around 30% stiffer than stock.

Not sure if they are the same or make specific C34 bushes but I used a set of nismo main cradle bushes in my 180SX. A lot firmer than stock with out being as hard as alloy. I got them from greenline.jp.

I don't have that smaller rear cover only the big front cover. Don't notice any vibration so the front must take care of the aero in my case.

Ah there's my wiring skills at work. I just measured across both pins 1 & 2 on the body loom side.

Cool thanks I test it tomorrow. So 12 v on the pump is safe seeing as it seems to I ky get 4.7?

Thanks brad I'll give that a go tomorrow. I remember though when I checked voltage at that plug with car off and running it only has 4.7volts, Ryan's had the same. Will 12 volts damage anything? So can I earth out pin 6 on the 4pin plug at the pump to see if that activates the pressure solenoid to see if it does stick? Wiring and wiring diagrams aren't my strong point ?

Will do. Plan to remove the pump assembly this weekend and send it off Monday, weather permitting. He said only couple day turn around.

You would really need to see what codes it has thrown as to if there's a problem or not. The system will activate the pump randomly to keep the set pressure but it's usually for a few seconds and not just a quick chirp. You can usually here it at work when you first start the car as it needs to build the set pressure again so the attesa is ready to act upon slip. If its just a quick chirp on start up you may have an issue with the pressure switch. It looses the coating on the solenoid rod inside the pressure switch and starts to randomly stick on or off. Thats why if you leave it too long it damages the pump as it ca stick on. Sorry for my lack of technical description.

Just keep in mind it doesn't fix the actual problem.

Generally only the cars with hicas 4 wheel steer had LSD diff.

Funny I've been doing that also. Still no good for the pump long term if you want it fixed cheaper.

He assures me it's fine to drive as the clutch pack has spring pressure to always have it engaged with %5 load so it doesn't need the pump to supply minimum pressure. Isn't the clutch pack in its own oil in the transfer case? I think that's the only part that would always need oil. I would have thought with other guys having the pressure switch fault they would have looked into it. He said the longer you leave it the more damage it does with the pump chewing itself out. In this case it's about $2k to exchange. He does all the work for Northshore and many other dealers Aus wide plus retail customers.

5k trade price. Problem solved now. Found a workshop in Sydney that can bench test and repair the pump assembly. Exchange unit for my worste case is $1495. Solenoid fix if everything else is ok, about $200. He said I can remove the pump and send to him and said its fine and safe to drive the car without it. Can't believe you NSW guys didn't know about him. I'll put his contact details up tonight in here and the M35 info page for others.

Well I just back from Nissan. They can't find the pressure sensor switch and therefore assume its built into the pump assembly as the only parts available to replace are the accumulator and the pump assmb. The pump assmb only interchanges with the V35 VQ25DD, all other attessa pumps are different. I had my Japanese mate search in Japanese if theres any other info but it only came up with heap of people having the same problem with the only fix being to replace the pump assmb. Its looking like Ill rip out the attessa all together and all problems solved.