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  1. Hi Geoff, the manifold would be a single scroll V-Band, I wasn't aware that there was any other option for these. Talking to the local sales team who sell these they have recommended a G30-770 instead of a 900, they feel that in the G30 configuration they don't have enough turbine to spin the 900 compressor. I'd be interested in your thoughts on this.
  2. I'd be interested to hear peoples thoughts on the merits of G30-900 vs G35-900 on a built 2.7. It appears that the compressor, CHRA and comp cover are identical, just a different turbine and housing. I'm not looking to make 500kw and would like good response on the street, it seems to me that the G30-900 would be a good option, but I have a niggling concern that I might be trading off a reasonable amount of top end for very little transient/low rpm response. The engine is fully built but runs hydraulic lifters so max rpm is probably 7500
  3. Interested to hear about this shifter, did you really pay $1k for it or do you have a connection for a more competitive price? https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/short-shifter-5-speed-gearbox-skyline-r33-r34-gts
  4. VQ37 and six speed. Cheap in the states and with a set of JWT cams will easily eclipse and S54 in power, reliability and torque. Not to mention you get rid of front axle weight and gain better ratios in the gearbox at the same time. Add a turbo and 350kw reliably is very easy to achieve without any other supporting mods.
  5. Good info mate, I'll certainly talk to my fabricator about it. My mate with the 30DET had the same issue until he got the air bleed size right. Who would have thought, an RB spitting oil everywhere - what a f**king surprise. Got any plans for oil de-aeration? I was going to get an Oberg welded to the top of the tank similar to what the NASCAR guys do to break up the bubbles, not perfect but better than nothing. I don't know if I can stump up $1500 for a Spintric.
  6. I'm running the same pump, but the Ross kit. A mate who ran a circuit RB30DET had an adjustable bleed from one cam cover, it ended up being about 4mm I think, otherwise totally sealed. Although negative crank case pressure would be nice, I'd be happy just to keep the RB from exploding for a while longer.
  7. Interesting dry sump pan from PRP, quite different to the Ross one with that well in it. I've got the Ross pan and am about to do the lines now, after seeing this I wish I had the PRP pan as it looks much simpler to get it all in there. Did you end up sealing the cam covers completely or do you have a small vacuum bleed in there? Are you measuring crank case vacuum, and what sort of vac are you getting on/off boost? Great work, the car looks fantastic.
  8. You can only highflow in the original housings, I've had Hypergear make a ceramic ball bearing unit for mine with billet wheel and so on. 5. SINGLE TURBO CHARGERS Each turbo charger must use the original manufacturer’s exhaust and compressor housings which must retain all external standard specifications. It is permitted to replace the core assembly including the compressor and exhaust turbine assemblies with a free component in which case only the internal standard specifications of the original exhaust and compressor housings may be modified. The original oil and coolant fittings may be modified only at the turbocharger core. The original waste gate or boost control actuator as fitted to the original turbo charger must be retained. The regs for twin turbo converted to a single specifically prohibit 2 wastegates but the regs for factory single turbo do not.
  9. I can't keep up with the rule changes, they seem to change them every year. Mine is an 89 shell so I suppose I can run in a few classes since mine is fairly standard looking from the outside. It would be nice to have a better turbo and manifold combo though so it doesn't choke the engine. Slightly off topic, reading the regs for EM2 it states The original waste gate or boost control actuator as fitted to the original turbo charger must be retained. Do you read this to mean at the exclusion of all other wastegates, or can I just keep it all in place (welded shut) and run a second wastegate.
  10. Why do you want to run in classic GT? I would have thought you'd be more competitive in EM? I know you have more freedom but some of the stuff running in classic GT is pretty crazy.
  11. 1000whp on an american dyno is achievable with a pait of 2860's and 14psi isn't it?
  12. I run a 4.375 in mine, works pretty well and I don't have any major lag issues but it's a built motor with a few fancy bits and pieces in it. My tyre size is 265/35/18 so I could probably go with a 4.6 like Ben but we still do a bit of circuit stuff so need the extra legs.
  13. +1 for Tony at Knight Engines, he built my RB a few years ago and it's a ripper. He's a one man show though so lead times are long, but you know the apprentice hasn't done your head so it's worth the wait. I totally get your trust issues, there's very few people I'll pay to work on my car. With respect to the lifters, cam profiles won't change much from a 26 or Neo, you'll just have to make sure the installed height of the bucket is correct. I'm assuming it's a shim under bucket conversion? Have you looked at a shimless bucket setup to reduce the mass of the valvetrain? The kiwi's have some great cam profiles and quality springs (as opposed to Jap tuner 'shopping list' springs) which will be a decent combo. The guys at Kelfords are happy to discuss what you are trying to achieve - give them a call they have probably worked with a customer on a vehicle that's had the Super Tech conversion.
  14. Surely that's just a matter of cam timing not the V-Cam magically making more cylinder pressure.
  15. I don't have any pics of the Lewis sump but I'll take some when I pull it off in the next few weeks. It drops pressure under brakes, fine in the turns. I actually suspect that the pump is more the issue, but without pulling it off I'll never know and the crank has been fitted with the Spool spline drive mandrel which means I'm kind of stuck with that unless I want to take the crank out. I don't want to do that, so dry sump is the best option. Not the cheapest option, but I won't have to worry about oil supply and pressure again so it's worth the additional expense.
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