Komdotkom

I've got a mate with a JRZ package on his IPRA car, and another mate has them in his 996 Turbo, they don't and shouldn't make this noise. I would 100% be making a warranty claim on these because that's not a 'normal' noise for a set of $1000 BC's let alone a high end manufacturer like JRZ. To me it doesn't sound like an internal damper noise, I'd be looking at all of the mounting points and investigating areas for free play and movement to occur. Another good street/track option that's got decent support in Japan is the lower spec Ohlins Road&Track. https://www.ohlins.eu/en/products/automotive/nissan-skyline-gt-r-1993--29/ Or just get a set of MCA's, I've got the gold series on my car (3 way) and they fantastic. There's no local support for them but you can just ship them back to Murray in Australia and he'll do whatever you want and then ship them back to you.

Good luck mate, I searched for ages before I found one.

At the risk of sounding like a smart ass, there's a lot more to it than 'mono tube are better' For example, arguably the best dampers in the world the Ohlins TTX 40 are twin tube (that's what the TT stands for) https://www.ohlins.com/product/ttx40-mk-ii/ Having said that, they are a well researched and engineered solution from a company that expends a huge amount of time resources on a product that works. I think generally speaking for less well resourced/mass market companies a montube is simpler to execute to a higher standard and provides increased flexibility when pushing out designs across a number of platforms.

I've just started using RevZone and have been pretty happy with the work. I like to understand exactly what happened on the dyno and review the logs, issues and solutions with the tuner which Justin and his team are happy to do. My car has a fair bit of Motec gear in it and a pretty custom setup, so it took some mucking around to get it right. When I got the car back, the cold start wasn't awesome (not terrible either, just some hunting around 20c) so I sent Justin a quick email to see if they could give me some pointers as to the cause because there's a few comp tables running concurrently at that time in my setup. Rather than just give me the answer or tell me to bring it back, he offered to send his tuner to my house to fix the problem free of charge. Pretty good service I reckon. I've had cars tuned at many other shops in the past and have been less than impressed. Good power tunes but shit attention to detail and poor drive-ability.

This is surely a troll of epic proportions. Is it school holidays again?

This is tops, love your work.

I made it myself.

I didn't get the car back on Friday as expected, they are going to finish the dash config on Monday so I should have it back on Wednesday. I'm going to have a chat with my local Motec boffin about some strategies to get it working more effectively. I can run a couple of comp tables to compare EMAP/IMAP/Turbine speed and EGT, I think I'll have to pull out a fair whack of timing at higher RPM as the EMAP gets out of control. The engine has fairly high dynamic comp to work with E85 and doesn't take much timing on 98. I'm limited by the class of racing that I'm doing to using 'standard' housings. Obviously you can highflow but the 21u housing is choking the shit out of things and has zero ability to regulate boost so I've got some fairly radical plans for the turbine housing. Car made good power on 98. It's an RB20 (Roy would love it). With the dial indicators, my engine builder setup two at 90 degrees to each other and measured the movement in the pump housing from the centreline then very slowly did up the bolts while keeping the pump housing centred using a nylon hammer and some love taps.

If you don't want 4WD just use a 370Z box and an adaptor from Collins.

Yep, you need to set the pump up with a dial indicator and re-dowel as Mitchum has said. Obviously you don't go to these lengths for a basic rebuild. Car was running on the dyno yesterday but ran out of turbo pretty early so had to stop it at 5k rpm as the EMAP was off the charts. I'll post a log over the weekend of rpm vs oil pressure

Mines got the Spool gears in it too and is on the dyno at the moment, I'll get them to data log a power run on the Motec and post a graph. I've got about 22psi at idle with 80C oil.

I ended up with the mag sensors after a long chat with a Motec guru who races and maintains a lot of IPRA cars. He did loads of research and was having issues with the hall sensors with missing teeth so moved over to the mag sensors and hasn't looked back. The downside is that you have to muck around with the sensor trigger levels in the software a bit to get really good resolution, but to date they've been excellent. The sensor I'm using is actually for a 60-2 on a GT2 Porsche, they are pretty cheap ~$100. You can download a fairly good spec sheet from here. They are dimensionally quite similar to the GT101 so I was able to use an existing GT101 style bracket with some basic machining. https://www.bosch-motorsport-shop.com.au/inductive-speed-sensor I've got it on the dyno next week so I'll grab a capture under load

I've got the same setup on mine, but Motec and mag sensors. I made a single tooth trigger for the exhaust cam instead of using the factory CAS. I'll grab a screen shot of the ref sync trace from the Motec if you want to compare the outputs of Bosch Motorsport mag sensors vs Hall.