Komdotkom

I don't have any pics of the Lewis sump but I'll take some when I pull it off in the next few weeks. It drops pressure under brakes, fine in the turns. I actually suspect that the pump is more the issue, but without pulling it off I'll never know and the crank has been fitted with the Spool spline drive mandrel which means I'm kind of stuck with that unless I want to take the crank out. I don't want to do that, so dry sump is the best option. Not the cheapest option, but I won't have to worry about oil supply and pressure again so it's worth the additional expense.

Probably just because I like to over do things. The logs from the Motec at Winton showed that it was dropping oil pressure under brakes and I'm not entirely happy with the pressure that it's pumping given that the engine is new and the relief spring is already shimmed up. It's running Spool spline drive pump gears and I'm just not super confident that it's all 100%, so I'd prefer to dry sump it. The sump is from Lewis Race Engines, and it's had a couple of pin holes in it from new which I've had to braze up. So I just wasn't super happy with the whole setup, so although it's going to be $10k, I reckon it's money well spent to ensure that the engine holds together a bit longer. I have gone with the Ross / Aviaid system because I've already got a Ross balancer so the mandrel will be a simple fit, but if I had more spare time for fabrication and fiddling I certainly would have got a nicer pump than the Aviaid with rootes scavenge instead of spur gears. Also, I have now trumped you in over capitalisation on an HCR32 and have the most highly polished turd around. All I need now is a sequential dog box....

Haha, no I meant any time starting with 1:4x.xx! Under 1:50 is quick enough for a full weight RB20 powerhouse I reckon. I won't be down there any time soon though, still waiting for the dry sump components from Ross to be made and posted.

He cuts a fairly 'unique' profile doesn't he. Yeah, George is a good mate of mine.

You run a much lower ride height than I was expecting for tarmac rally, this doesn't give you any trouble with the roll centres? I'm hoping to do the Snowy River Sprint in mine this year, hopefully work/family commitments give me sufficient time to get it finalised.

What sort of times does this thing do at PI? Planning to do any days down there this year? We can compare notes to see who has the best 'RB20' in an HCR32. I did a shake down at Winton late last year and managed a 1:34 so hoping to crack the 1:40's at PI.

A billet crank won't make any difference unless you are going for larger journals and wider big ends to provide a greater surface area. You could just buy a 2JZ....

It's about piston speed, your RB30 crank at 9k rpm has 17% more piston speed and load due to the increased stroke. Granted this is helped somewhat by a superior rod angle and ratio from the taller block, but you are still putting the additional load through a bearing with the same surface area. Use RB30, more boost, less RPM

Kelford also do a split duration camshaft which although not a traditional PolyQuad (yes this is one of Vizard's projects) it does provide a similar effect, I'm running them in mine with reasonable success. I was supposed to be on the dyno today but with Stage 4 lock down in Melbourne I can only sit in the car in my garage and make wooshing noises.

Tried to PM you, but you can't receive messages.

Anything in particular? Mine's built to specific regulations that probably don't cross over much with drifting, but I'm happy to send you some engine bay pics if you like? It's all pretty standard stuff really, the only thing that's a bit different to the usual is the cooling system which uses a custom made cross flow twin pass radiator and swirl pot.

The car has run with the standard manifold but return flow intercoolers are average at best and aesthetically I cannot cope with the tortuous path that intercooler pipes must follow to use the standard manifold. This Plazmaman unit makes use of the standard lower runners so does not reduce the overall intake length too dramatically and allows me to use a Plazmaman GTR intercooler and neat pipe work. The engine is built to produce maximum torque at low rpm (from an RB20 LOL) so has high static compression and custom made split duration Kelford cams to promote better swirl in the chamber before it reaches positive manifold pressure. Hypergear made me a very custom turbo so that I still comply with my class rules but it should make 300rwkw without too much problem, back on the dyno in August after a few more changes. Previous best with this engine combo (but 21U highflow) was 265kw but boost control was non existent because the internal gate was too small so we didn't run it past 5500rpm.

It's got a fully optioned M600 at the moment but I've just ordered an M150 and dev license for it. One of the reasons for going to M150 is more inputs, I'm out of space and that's with the dash upgraded for extra I/O. I could probably drop a few of the less critical inputs off and only connect them for testing but the added flexibility of the development license for M150 is certainly worth a few extra dollars. My I/O list is similar to yours but I don't run N02, it's a rally car.

Yes, it's got most of the Motec catalogue in it so runs just about everything you can think of. Just missing tyre temp sensors and suspension position sensors I think. At the moment it runs 'traditional' Motec traction control strategy but I was considering a DBW TB in the intake pipe after the IC to bleed off boost as a form of TC which was very effective because it doesn't impact engine speed an efficiency as much as other strategies. A mate ran his IPRA car like this with excellent results.

It's a race car and has Motec everything so DBW is used for idle control and I'm a big believer 'in if it's worth doing, it's worth over doing' I wanted a forward facing TB and would have had to purchase a larger unit anyway so there was essentially no significant cost difference between DBW and a cable throttle.