Komdotkom

I think the complete lack of any technical detail would be a give away. 30 way damper adjustment doesn't mean much and in that price bracket there's loads of options that are known quantities. As above, call Josh at MCA they have the runs on the board from all types of motorsport, have been in business for years and provide great customer service. When you flog them out after 5 years I'm sure MCA will rebuild them, old mate from Facepalm will just sell you another set.

Empty you inbox and I'll PM you some stuff from my engine builder.

You won't believe this, but my last RB20 ran forever and used two .9mm Mig welding tips as restrictors - very effective and abundant.

If you want to have an informed conversation about a good cam package for your car and its specific use(s), I suggest that you go and see Clive at Clive Cams in Ferntree Gully. There are quite a few decent grinds from smaller players (not big jap tuning companies) for the SR which are quite good, a mate has one of the old Super Tourer grinds in his IPRA 1600 and it's fairly decent at low RPM for a 306 duration (advertised) cam. I still reckon you are better off with stock cams though, you turbo isn't big enough to make it worthwhile. I'd much rather have a punchy 230kw car than a laggy 270kw car.

It will be fine. You have lower ramp rates and a lower overall lift so the only effect it will have on the valve train is a positive one. The upside to OEM cams is they are generally ground to a very high standard unlike a lot of aftermarket cams and therefore are likely to not chew up your rocker arms. It's worth checking your spray bars while its apart as SR's have a tendency to clog up. 270 is a big cam on a low comp engine, remember that you are lowering your dynamic comp with large cams that have a longer period of overlap and relying on positive pressure in the manifold to generate any real efficiency. Furthermore the effects of camshaft duration are magnified on smaller displacement engines. You will end up with higher cylinder pressures and peak torque will shift, so your tune will need to be adjusted.

I'm going the Commodore route at the moment. Seems to be pretty straight forward but the plug for the TB is a bitch to find. I'm running a Plazmaman plenum with a custom adapter for the TB and a custom pedal mount (got Tilton brake and clutch so I needed to line then up anyway) I'm going DBW for throttle blipping and smoother traction control, the Motec traction can be a bit harsh I find with ignition cut. I am yet to fire it up so I don't have any real world experience for you, but I'm loving no idle control and throttle cable in the engine bay.

Good result, stage times looked pretty good. I'm assuming the Mustang that won is supercharged?

Hi Ben, Thanks for the quick response. Good luck at Lake Mountain, with all the rain we've had over the last week I imagine there will be a fair bit of debris on the course. Have you done an event with Mountain Motorsport before?

Hi Ben, Can you eleborate a bit more on the issues that you had with the 1zz coils? I've just bought the 1NZ coil kit for my R32 tarmac rally car, now you have me worried. The coils that I have are Denso coils according to the manufacturing stamps, but as you know these days things are not always as they seem. Great work on the car with amazing attention to detail, thanks for taking the time to document the build. Are you planning on doing any tarmac stuff in Victoria?

Richard, the other advantage is that you have a much wider selection of rotor size and configuration. You can also get a proper racing rotor like a PFC/AP/Alcon/Brembo instead of a high performance street rotor.

Just to be clear, these are RS3's not Z221's

Do you have a Motec M8 or that's what you are looking at? The M8's are pretty damn old now (circa 1990) and aren't really supported by Motec, a mate of mine has one in an old Sports Sedan and it's a pain in the backside. You'd be much better off with a Haltech Elite or a Link. I've got a Motec system on mine (M600+PDM+CDL3) but if I had my time again I would go with a Haltech becuase of their superior support for club level/budget motorsport. Motec are fine if you have cubic dollars, but for the sort of car you have it's overkill. If you currently have an M8, I'd sell it. You'll probably get $1400 ish for it depending on the options enabled, this will cover a lot of the expense of a newer ECU.

The last one I got was about $80, but that was for a CA18. Autronic sell them so do NZ efi. Just don't connect the REF to the ECU and use the Sync off the exhaust cam. http://www.nzefi.com/product/24-tooth-cam-angle-sensor-disk-nissan-sr20det-rwd/

You can always just change to a custom made single window disc for the existing CAS instead of the the Murrayis cam trigger, that's what I'm doing.

Hmm, not much info provided by third parties and end users - it all seems to be coming from the vendors.