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Everything posted by Komdotkom

  1. I just put a set of Kelfords in mine, let me know if you want a set of HKS 256/264 cheap.
  2. Have a look at the MRM Racing forum that's hosted in Scandinavia somewhere, they have heaps of great info and a very helpful and active community. Autronic's are fine once you get your head around the program, they just lack a lot of the more modern functions like Flex and and not needing a laptop from the dark ages. I ran one on a race car for years without any issues.
  3. 3.9's are hard to get, in Australia your best bet will be to get a set from a Z31 at the wreckers although they are not in all year models. 3.7 is quite common though and that's in the majority of Z31's which were delivered to Australia. If you don't mind mucking around the older Z cars have 3.7 and 3.54 but you'll need to make spacers for the diff centre as the bolts are 1mm smaller. This isn't an issue from a strength point of view but it's a bit of mucking around to make it work.
  4. Yes, the ecu still needs to know where the camshafts are up to but the crank trigger keeps your fuel and spark events on time in relation to the piston location. It'd be work looking at whether Nistune can run a crank trigger though. I'm assuming you don't still have the AFM? That's just more aids you need to banish!
  5. https://www.efihardware.com/products/358/gear-tooth-sensor-1GT101DC Super easy to fabricate, just draw it on an open source CNC program like E machine shop and send it off. Should cost less than $200 for the whole lot. If you want any GT101's let me know I've moved on to a Bosch Motorsport sensor for my RB because of extra teeth and have a few new ones lying around.
  6. This is the old turbo before I got external gate Kando for it. I couldn't get the target boost to work with the internal gate so gave it the ass.
  7. Nah, I made the crank trigger myself. Still used the CAS for the sync signal though. You only really need 4 teeth so I just made up a plate that bolted onto the back of the balancer with a GT101 in between the timing belt behind the front cover. You won't realise the benefit of moving the injectors if you keep the butterflies in there. If you are racing the car, it should never be below 3000rpm and therefore the butterflies are useless since you have enough air speed at 3000rpm and boost is building so they are just a restriction.
  8. I've still got a CA, it's just two extra cylinders! We did some testing with timing scatter on the dyno with a Snap-On timing light and a scope which showed some pretty frightening variations in timing through the mid range and it was all over the joint up top. I think this is largely due to 30 year old sensors trying to keep up and just failing. Following crank trigger install it was a completely different beast, in fact that was the very first change I made to my Rb after my previous experience. We also took out those stupid NICS butterflys when I moved the injectors.
  9. Building a good reliable CA for track work isn't hard, I recently sold an S12 with a CA that put out 235rwkw and has great torque. The two best things I did to it were: 1) Crank trigger, get rid of the CAS aids (This car ran Autronic though so I'm not sure if Nistune will accept a crank trigger) 2) Moved the injectors so that they were further up the runners, the factory placement sprays fuel into one valve but not the other. I found quite a good increase in torque because we could crank in a bit more timing. Engine was pretty basic, just 9:1 JE pistons and Spool rods, new OEM oil pump with a direct pressure take off fitting welded to the housing, Kando TD05-18G and NA cams. The car handled like shit but still did 1:51 at the island no problem. I had quite a few pics but Photof**ket.
  10. I'm overhauling my race car and have installed a copper mix twin (c) and a tilton pedal box with a 3/4 clutch master. Pedal ratio is about 7:1 http://tiltonracing.com/product/800-series-overhung-pedal-assembly/ Everyone bangs on about how the coppermix twin is just like a stock clutch, but this with the pedal box mine is really quite heavy. Anyone have experience with this? Just want to make sure that I haven't missed any common things before I change clutch masters at great expense. Cheers.
  11. Probably your local brake shop. They are 10x1mm thread.
  12. Are you 100% sure that your gauge is correct?
  13. http://justjap.com/manufacturers/oem/332/534/genuine-nissan-head-gasket-nissan-rb26dett.html or $51US on Amayama for a genuine RB26 gasket. I agree with no MLS gasket if you can't be certain of the RA on the block deck. Are you worried about PTV clearance or static compression? I wouldn't worry too much about the static comp, dummy assemble and measure the crown clearance with pasticine to work out PTV and your cam timing options.
  14. I'd be keen to see the results, 3071 should be pretty snappy on a 25
  15. Has anyone got any real world data or results on the new GTX3076 gen 2? I've heard anecdotally from friends that they are quite impressive and people are achieving good numbers with surprisingly small turbos, but I've not seen any actual results.
  16. I think the complete lack of any technical detail would be a give away. 30 way damper adjustment doesn't mean much and in that price bracket there's loads of options that are known quantities. As above, call Josh at MCA they have the runs on the board from all types of motorsport, have been in business for years and provide great customer service. When you flog them out after 5 years I'm sure MCA will rebuild them, old mate from Facepalm will just sell you another set.
  17. Empty you inbox and I'll PM you some stuff from my engine builder.
  18. You won't believe this, but my last RB20 ran forever and used two .9mm Mig welding tips as restrictors - very effective and abundant.
  19. If you want to have an informed conversation about a good cam package for your car and its specific use(s), I suggest that you go and see Clive at Clive Cams in Ferntree Gully. There are quite a few decent grinds from smaller players (not big jap tuning companies) for the SR which are quite good, a mate has one of the old Super Tourer grinds in his IPRA 1600 and it's fairly decent at low RPM for a 306 duration (advertised) cam. I still reckon you are better off with stock cams though, you turbo isn't big enough to make it worthwhile. I'd much rather have a punchy 230kw car than a laggy 270kw car.
  20. It will be fine. You have lower ramp rates and a lower overall lift so the only effect it will have on the valve train is a positive one. The upside to OEM cams is they are generally ground to a very high standard unlike a lot of aftermarket cams and therefore are likely to not chew up your rocker arms. It's worth checking your spray bars while its apart as SR's have a tendency to clog up. 270 is a big cam on a low comp engine, remember that you are lowering your dynamic comp with large cams that have a longer period of overlap and relying on positive pressure in the manifold to generate any real efficiency. Furthermore the effects of camshaft duration are magnified on smaller displacement engines. You will end up with higher cylinder pressures and peak torque will shift, so your tune will need to be adjusted.
  21. I'm going the Commodore route at the moment. Seems to be pretty straight forward but the plug for the TB is a bitch to find. I'm running a Plazmaman plenum with a custom adapter for the TB and a custom pedal mount (got Tilton brake and clutch so I needed to line then up anyway) I'm going DBW for throttle blipping and smoother traction control, the Motec traction can be a bit harsh I find with ignition cut. I am yet to fire it up so I don't have any real world experience for you, but I'm loving no idle control and throttle cable in the engine bay.
  22. Good result, stage times looked pretty good. I'm assuming the Mustang that won is supercharged?
  23. Hi Ben, Thanks for the quick response. Good luck at Lake Mountain, with all the rain we've had over the last week I imagine there will be a fair bit of debris on the course. Have you done an event with Mountain Motorsport before?
  24. Hi Ben, Can you eleborate a bit more on the issues that you had with the 1zz coils? I've just bought the 1NZ coil kit for my R32 tarmac rally car, now you have me worried. The coils that I have are Denso coils according to the manufacturing stamps, but as you know these days things are not always as they seem. Great work on the car with amazing attention to detail, thanks for taking the time to document the build. Are you planning on doing any tarmac stuff in Victoria?
  25. Richard, the other advantage is that you have a much wider selection of rotor size and configuration. You can also get a proper racing rotor like a PFC/AP/Alcon/Brembo instead of a high performance street rotor.