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Doesn't the 370z box have a gear position sensor? Worth looking to see if it can be retro fitted

Really high quality work mate, love the high spec wiring rather than what people usually do.

Thanks mate, now that I'm looking at it on the PC and not my phone I can see you have a standard uni at the rear. I've got a CV on my diff but a flat flange on the back of the gearbox. I like the idea of a CV centre bearing, I'll see what my tailshaft guy has to say about it. Thanks for the quick reply.

Looking good mate. Tell me more about this Ford centre bearing? I'm going to see my tailshaft man tomorrow, same plan but was just going to use a Nissan centre bearing

I have NFI what it means, but my diff wizard does and that'll do me.

If you get a gear set of Neat just be aware that they are a Gleeson cut and need to be setup differently. I know a guy who killed one of theirs in 10 laps because his diff shop set it up like a normal helical cut. The guys at Neat are very helpful and will explain the differences.

Oh righto, I'm not on Faceballs so haven't seen it. You're not still running a booster and Nissan master? I've got a Tilton setup in mine, it's a bit shit when pads are cold because it's unboosted an a 7.5:1 pedal ratio but once the tyres and pads are hot it's magic. Super easy to get the bias right with pressure sensors too, we set mine by the pressures as recommended by my Motec boffin and it was perfect straight out of the box

f**k this is an epic build, not much left on the table now surely. More carbon/less weight and correctly located ballast and even more aero is all I can think of. I love how it's gone from a pretty decent Sprint/club day car to full bonkers in a short space of time. Did you just load Brad's tune into your ABS? I'm hoping I don't have to think about it too much. On another note, I thought Motec were price gouging when they charged $500 for a UTC but they are rookies compared to Bosch. $1800 for a tuning cable? Jesus. Do you have any in-car from WTAC 23?

Yeah, I just called Brad and he sent me the shit. Top guy to deal with, just get's it done.

My Bosch ABS arrived yesterday, I'll be interested to hear how you rate it now that you've got enough brakes to slow the rotation of the earth. I reckon the ABS will be working pretty hard to keep up with this mental setup you've put on. My mate runs 380mm V8SC brakes on his IPRA car, it's mental and you've gone even bigger😂

Wow, 395mm under an 18 will be tight AF but will be incredible. 36mm or 38mm?

Nice job on the wiring mate. I feel your pain on the bulkhead connector, I f**ked mine up (looking at it backwards) and had to repin one side of a 61 pin autosport connector. Then triple check it.

Jesus, that's a big diffuser. Planning to come East for some events at SMSP before WTAC 24? Out of interest, do you rate the Motorsport ABS? While I'm needlessly upgrading mine I have been considering it but $12k is a lot of cash.

I sold the Nismo LSD to Fatz for one of his fleet and am using a Cusco instead, this needs GTR stub axles which are made of whale tears judging by the price. For the 3.5 ratio I'm getting a set of gears from Neat, I'm also building a 3.7 for Winton just in case. The 350Z conversion is not as simple or as good as you'd hope. The front mounting 'ears' on the diff case are not in the same position from a height point of view so you end up with the diff hanging down much lower than a 'normal' R200. This creates some dramas with driveshaft angles. A guy I know has this setup in his S14 and needed to get GTR driveshafts to make it work which are also made from whale tears so it ended up being a very expensive conversion. Although the gears from Neat are $2k for a set, it probably would have been a better option with the benefit of 20/20 hindsight.

Hmm, if they did reverse rotation I'd be all over one I reckon.

Any idea on pricing? They do some nice high PR small frame stuff too.

Thanks gents, your input is very much appreciated Clearly I'm not smart enough to work this out, who do you engage as a consultant to spec a turbo for something like this? I wouldn't know where to start looking for the right kind of boffin for this.

I've got a bit more information from the owner about the turbo and it appears to be quite a strange hybrid. It was built to be similar to the GT2860R Rally which is a turbo which was designed specifically for rally cars on a 34mm restrictor. This is great in theory but when you overlay the choke line on the compressor map all of a sudden things are looking less good. 36 lb/min for a 38mm restrictor I think is on the money. I think my question now becomes do you tune the wastegate position to be keep it just below the choke point of the restrictor and taper shaft speed as rpm increases. I'm assuming that once the orifice chokes the flow gets ugly and we also see a vacuum in front of the compressor blades which is not great. Or do you just smash as much boost in there as possible and make it choke as soon as possible? My thinking is that the turbulent flow and vacuum in front of the compressor is NFG but I don't have any experience with this.

Sorry, I should have mentioned this is God's Tractor Engine, SR20DET (not VE)

Thanks for your insights @Lithium, much appreciated. I was thinking G25-550, at least they're good at high PR's unlike the GTX2971R which is surprisingly poor. It's currently running an IWG (I know I can't believe it either) so I'll see if we can get a Mamba .64 rear for the GTX29 on a V-Band and see how it goes.

I had a crack with matchbot earlier but without having much information on what the intake restriction is I was getting some pretty wild numbers. It still generates 30psi MAP so I'm assuming it's still spinning pretty hard, or is this in fact choked up exhaust gas? This has all come about because the engine is apart at the moment and the intake ports are covered in partially combusted E85 jelly stuff. As soon as the air becomes supersonic through the restrictor and it chokes the PR is going to spike massively, is the object to bypass more air through the WG to keep the compressor right on the edge of the restrictor stall?

I want to add a map sensor between the restrictor and the compressor to see what that looks like, not my car though so that's up to the owner.

It's a very difficult thing to get right. When the car had a smaller turbo on it (GT2860R .64) it would make more power past peak torque with the WG open. The current turbo GT2971R (not a typo) .86 does not, but that seems mental to me. All that air can't be going through the turbine without EMAP being 11ty billion PSI. I was reading an article about the old WRC compressors and they were saying that they ran a larger overall wheel but with a smaller inducer to allow for a 7 degree taper from the restrictor. The turbine was shallower/thinner but had a larger exducer to work at higher PRs. Car makes 220 ish kw on E85.

While this isn't strictly a Borg Warner turbo question, does anyone know if you can use the very helpful Matchbot software to simulate a turbo restrictor? It's got a line item for inlet air restriction which is for airboxes/filters and so on but if I ramp up these numbers to suit a 38mm restrictor does anyone know if the software will model correctly?

Anyone want a new Nismo GT Pro for a GTR? Doesn't look like I can make it work with 3.7s, needs a 4.xx ratio